TIG welded some Aluminum today

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Equipment used: Lincoln Square wave TIG/stick welder 175a 220vPure Tungsten 1/8" grinded to a flat ended point so I could form a nice ball using DC - (yes I switched back to AC when it was time to weld)Filler was 4044 Aluminum Rod 1/16"Base metal: Aluminum block about 4" long and 3/4" thickAs you can see there is some black around the base of the weld and I preped the aluminum as well as I knew how. Which was using a circular machine brush then wiping with Acetone. I even wiped the filler rod with Acetone. But i still got this dirty weld. Attached Images
Reply:Take a pic of the tungsten.Go with the grain as to speak over a circular motion when cleaning..There is no such thing as too clean when it comes to aluminum.....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Originally Posted by zapsterThere is no such thing as too clean when it comes to aluminum.....zap!
Reply:You are using a stailness brush correct?Your LWS should have stainless what looks like a toothbrush brushes you should be using.....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:yeah it was stainless. What i actually used was an electric wire wheel.
Reply:I'd skip the machine brushing part... IME that can fold contamination under the surface.  Brushing with hand power (hand brush) is much better, because you won't be able to generate enough heat to smear the surface and fold any contaminates underneath.You might try heating that chunk of aluminum you are welding on (up to say 400F or so) to see if any contamination bakes out of it.  General rule of thumb = if it smokes when heated, that was caused by contamination burning, like oils or other hydrocarbons.Also, since the contamination is happening where the arc is starting, make sure you are running enough pre-flow time.  If a sudden "whoosh" of gas is coming out, you should wait for that to settle down before actually striking the arc.  And of course, make sure the tungsten electrode is contamination free.  Which leads me to one more recommendation, make sure you are using enough post-flow to keep the tungsten bathed in inert gas until it has cooled sufficiently to not oxidize (good rule of thumb IME, is the post-flow should not be stopping while the tungsten is still glowing.)  Make sure to hold the torch still during post-flow as well.
Reply:High speed wire wheels will smear the alum oxide, not remove it. You want to use a hand brush.Also note that while you managed to get a bead, 3/4" is way to thick for only 175 amps. The reason it worked was because the piece was so small, you managed to heat the whole piece up to almost welding temp. 150 amps would do 1/8" alum..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Originally Posted by jakeruI'd skip the machine brushing part... IME that can fold contamination under the surface.  Brushing with hand power (hand brush) is much better, because you won't be able to generate enough heat to smear the surface and fold any contaminates underneath.
Reply:Originally Posted by jakeruI'd skip the machine brushing part... IME that can fold contamination under the surface.  Brushing with hand power (hand brush) is much better, because you won't be able to generate enough heat to smear the surface and fold any contaminates underneath.You might try heating that chunk of aluminum you are welding on (up to say 400F or so) to see if any contamination bakes out of it.  General rule of thumb = if it smokes when heated, that was caused by contamination burning, like oils or other hydrocarbons.Also, since the contamination is happening where the arc is starting, make sure you are running enough pre-flow time.  If a sudden "whoosh" of gas is coming out, you should wait for that to settle down before actually striking the arc.  And of course, make sure the tungsten electrode is contamination free.  Which leads me to one more recommendation, make sure you are using enough post-flow to keep the tungsten bathed in inert gas until it has cooled sufficiently to not oxidize (good rule of thumb IME, is the post-flow should not be stopping while the tungsten is still glowing.)  Make sure to hold the torch still during post-flow as well.
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWAlso note that while you managed to get a bead, 3/4" is way to thick for only 175 amps. The reason it worked was because the piece was so small, you managed to heat the whole piece up to almost welding temp. 150 amps would do 1/8" alum.
Reply:I agree about the material thickness bring Too thick for the welder out put ... You saidYou balled the tungsten with DC +. but you didn't mention what you struck the arc on?A thick piece of copper is what you should Have used not aluminum..... Also was it a mistake saying 4044 filler?  Miller Dynasty 350Twenty Six HammersThree Crow BarsBig Rock
Reply:The filler was too small should have had 3/32  Miller Dynasty 350Twenty Six HammersThree Crow BarsBig Rock
Reply:Originally Posted by B_CI agree about the material thickness bring Too thick for the welder out put ... You saidYou balled the tungsten with DC +. but you didn't mention what you struck the arc on?A thick piece of copper is what you should Have used not aluminum..... Also was it a mistake saying 4044 filler?
Reply:Kinda think you pulled some of the steel work bench into your Tungsten when you tried to ball your tungsten........To be honest with you I prep the Tungsten with a small point and flat spot and have been having good results with Cereated  ( Orange or silver band) But like I said if you really need a good ball use a piece of copper and DC+  to obtain it......I just prep the tungsten and start welding.....  Miller Dynasty 350Twenty Six HammersThree Crow BarsBig Rock
Reply:Originally Posted by B_CKinda think you pulled some of the steel work bench into your Tungsten when you tried to ball your tungsten........To be honest with you I prep the Tungsten with a small point and flat spot and have been having good results with Cereated  ( Orange or silver band) But like I said if you really need a good ball use a piece of copper and DC+  to obtain it......I just prep the tungsten and start welding.....