"No-PreHeat" Cast Iron Repair Technique

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Goodafternoon, everyone!!So, this is the latest of my Cast Iron welding videos... I repaired a "crack" in a transmission housing without any kind of a preheat, or a post-heat:[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yopcz-IYDyQ[/ame]Basically, Cast Iron cracks when it's heated and/or cooled rapidly, hence the reason why its usually pre-heated and allowed to cool slowly, but theres a chance that you can get around this by just not getting it very hot...I used a Nickel-99 electrode to make welds under 1" in length, which I then peened and allowed to cool completely, so that I could run my fingers directly over the weld, at which point I ran another short weld using the "back-stepping" technique, and repeated...This is a technique that can be used with any of the main electric arc welding processes... I've seen it done with TIG using stainless filler, and I've heard of people having success with it running MIG , again with stainless filler...Its just a little technique that I heard of, and had to try, I made a video about it and just thought i'd share... Doesnt seem like a bad way to weld a cracked engine block or something along those lines...Well, hope you guys like the video... Have a great week, everyone!! [Account Abandoned 8/8/16 Please Do Not Attempt Contact Or Expect A Reply]. See you on YouTube! -ChuckE2009
Reply:Cast iron is a funny thing.  You can use minimal heat, or a hell of a lot.  For some things where you aren't too concerned about ductility or embrittlement, the minimal heat can work.  Brazing can be even better in some cases."USMCPOP" First-born son: KIA  Iraq 1/26/05Syncrowave 250 w/ Coolmate 3Dialarc 250, Idealarc 250SP-175 +Firepower TIG 160S (gave the TA 161 STL to the son)Lincwelder AC180C (1952)Victor & Smith O/A torchesMiller spot welder
Reply:UTP actually makes several rods that are for welding cast iron with no preheat or post heat. They are the foremost authority in the world on welding cast iron. I usually, in winter, weld over 20 cast iron water pumps for the local well guys and have been for years now. I have never had a failure using thier rods.One other thing you may want to consider as they say it is very important is use a "U" groove instead of a "V" groove.
Reply:Bob, I was going to add the U groove, glad you did.  I don't know where I learned that from, probably an old hand or manual somewhere.  I prefer to braze my cast jobs.  I love doing it that way and love the look afterwards.Yorkiepap has a no heat method that you should look into, Lanse.  it is with 308 stainless mig wire.  I have done it playing around on some scrap.  I attempted it with a 308 stick, but I didn't have much success.  I think it might have worked if you had a scaler or peen hammer like you have at the ready to get after it.  Don't you love the way nickel welds?
Reply:U groove... uh... How do you grind such a groove? I mean, in two separate pieces of thick plate you can somehow manipulate your grinder (be it abrasive or a mill or whatever) to get the U shape (which I guess will be a J on each side). How do you do such a thing with a crack in a piece that is still... one piece? Die grinder with carbide ball shaped tip or something?Mikel
Reply:Informative. Try one with brass!
Reply:Another great video!
Reply:Originally Posted by Mikel_24U groove... uh... How do you grind such a groove? I mean, in two separate pieces of thick plate you can somehow manipulate your grinder (be it abrasive or a mill or whatever) to get the U shape (which I guess will be a J on each side). How do you do such a thing with a crack in a piece that is still... one piece? Die grinder with carbide ball shaped tip or something?Mikel
Reply:I've never tried to TIG cast iron before.  What are the answers regarding tigging with stainless filler about? I wiuld think stainless would be brittle.  Is that a common technique?
Reply:Originally Posted by blackbartI've never tried to TIG cast iron before.  What are the answers regarding tigging with stainless filler about? I wiuld think stainless would be brittle.  Is that a common technique?
Reply:I may be wrong, but I notice stainless hardware and bolts seem to fatigue and crack much faster than regular steel.
Reply:They're simply not as strong. Grade 8 is formulated for strength, most stainless isnt.Welding/Fab Pics: www.UtahWeld.com