Where/how to replace valves on harris torch?

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My Harris model 50 had a leak at the valve and caught fire. Correct me if I am wrong but that means bad valves right? Where can I find replacement valves, I didn't have any luck at the Harris site.
Reply:PM OAdoctor here or try his site. He can either rebuild the torch for you or get you the parts you need.http://www.regulatortorchrepair.com/repairservices.php.No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Thanks for the tip, I tried PMing him with no reply yet I will give that link a try and see what happens. Thanks
Reply:You call harris and get a part number then get your local welding shop to order that part number.  I did that with the seats for the automatic shut off feature.  What you are describing is probably the packing nut which is possibly integral with the threaded valve.  Maybe the harris guy can suggest some on who would actually order it I am not sure if I have an account that would order something like that at this time.fran
Reply:I am a little weary of the 2 LWS places, I almost always get bad information (with the acceptation of one older guy who never seems to be there), x2 or greater mark ups (of online prices ie $14 for a paint marker plus tax and hazard shipping fee  ), or else they just try and sell me TIG or all new MAPP setups. Right now I am too scared to go in there unless I have too.  I will keep that as a last resort and maybe I will hear back form OAdoctor in the mean time. Now when I do order parts should I swap out the other valves, orings at the same time or wait until they leak?
Reply:Originally Posted by jereI am a little weary of the 2 LWS places, I almost always get bad information (with the acceptation of one older guy who never seems to be there), x2 or greater mark ups (of online prices ie $14 for a paint marker plus tax and hazard shipping fee  ), or else they just try and sell me TIG or all new MAPP setups. Right now I am too scared to go in there unless I have too.  I will keep that as a last resort and maybe I will hear back form OAdoctor in the mean time. Now when I do order parts should I swap out the other valves, orings at the same time or wait until they leak?
Reply:Oldiron2 I am in Akron Ohio, it would be nice to find a family owned place, or at least a place the reps know that you can weld with O/A and not just cut
Reply:Jere, do not wait for OADoctor to pm you back, I haven't seen him around as much as before. Call his shop and tell him you found him from Welding Web and he will help you out. I've never used his service, but a lot of guys here have given all great reviews."Where's Stick man????????" - 7A749"SHHHHHH!! I sent him over to snag that MIC-4 while tbone wasn't looking!" - duaneb55"I have bought a few of Tbone's things unlike Stick-Man who helps himself" - TozziWelding"Stick-man"
Reply:Stick-man thanks I emailed his website too (and mentioned WW) so I should be hearing back from him anytime now.
Reply:Can you remove your valve?  I tried to take one, well actually four out and none of them would come out like a usual valve where you unscrew the packing nut and the knob both at the same time.  It isn't terribly unusual that won't come out but most of the time they seem to come out for me.  Whether dis assembling as much as possiable and soaking in nozzle cleaning compound would do it, couldn't say.  I never saw a need to mess with the knobs just keep the packing nuts tight enough so the knob kind of stays put if it gets bumped and that for me keeps the leaks at bay.  The packing nut is what the wrench is on.  If you do actually buy new valves with the packing nuts on them I would expect them to be of the new design not knurled like in this picture.  A year of two ago I got an on line welding place to special order a slow blow fuse for a lincoln welder and add it to an order I would expect I could do similar with Harris stuff if I had a part # just cant remember or find that order reciept.Another thing you could try is to really tighten down on the packing nut and leave it that way over night then adjust as normal.  It is kind of a simplistic design a lot of stuff now the knob has a skirt that comes down and overlaps some of the packing nut protecting the actual stem where the seal is made.  Admittedly I don't know what is inside there on that model.fran Attached ImagesLast edited by fran...k.; 11-25-2012 at 12:28 PM.
Reply:I loosened that nut up all the way out but the knob wouldn't come out. The packing nut was fairly loose, that might have been what was causing the leak. I will test it out with some soapy water later today and see. If it still leaks I will try tightening the nut down and leaving it over night like you said.
Reply:You got me curious as to why they won't come apart.  Have a virtually new one and even that wouldn't come apart but I found one that has had the packing nut loose for at least 10 years and it came apart.  It looks like the seal is only about a milimeter thick/long.  The packing nut is threaded on the inside and outside the inside thread a bit smaller diameter than the main thread on the needle valve.  The other thing on the stem is a brass washer just a bit thinner than the seal.  Maybe an electric heat gun would loosen the seal from the main casting. Attached Images
Reply:Thanks for that picture, I looked all of the internet trying to find something like that to see how it was all put together (Yours looks identical to mine by the way). Is that double threading on the packing nut common on all torches? It seems like it changes the tension on the knob, for some adjustment in wear overtime or just to make it easier to turn while working maybe?I re-tested the after playing around with the tension on the packing nut and no more leaks! I feel dumb for not checking that before hand and almost buying stuff I don't need, at least for now.
Reply:Oh and I bet the electric heat gun would do the trick. With automotive bolt I use a propane torch all the time on stuck rusty bolts, works every time