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Hey guys, I haven't been welding in a long time and have lost my skills. I just picked up a miller 252 and I've been trying to get things working well again. My set up is .035" ER70S-6, C-25, on 3/8" mild. (oh and one pic of 2x2 1/8")I seem to be havng my most problems with my vertical ups, I tend to get undercut on the sides, and droop in the middle, I run at 20.0 V 295 ipm wires speedThe first pic is just a 1F position, 24.5V 475 ipmThe second pic is my terrible vertical up, 20.0 V 295 ipmthird pic is overhead 23V, 350 ipmlast pic is 2x2 1/8" wall, 21 V, 330 ipm. (the vertical weld is down, I only go up on 1/4" plus) The main questions I have is ways to get rid of the undercut on vertical ups, I've watched Jody's videos on welding tips and tricks, but for some reason I can't mimic it. Do I still need to go colder? 20.0V at 295 ipm seems so cold for 3/8" thick material. Attached ImagesMillermatic 252 w/spoolmate 200Miller 250 DialarcLincoln 180 mig pakLincoln mig pak 100Hypertherm Powermax 65Precision Plasma Patriot 4x8 CNC tableEverlast 250ex TIGOxy-acet rig10"x18" Modern BandsawModern 14x40 Lathe
Reply:You aren't holding the sides long enough on the vertical up. You need to wait until you see the puddle catch up to the arc and then hurry across to the other side and pause again for the puddle to catch up.If you are doing a straight stringer with no motion, you need to watch both sides fill at the same time and progress upward as it fills. It's much tougher for most guys I see to do this, especially if they haven't quite yet learned to read the puddle well. A tiny bit of side to side motion lets you watch each side individually as you progress upward and simplifies things for most guys I help..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Well I haven't been out in the shop much, but over the weekend I thought it was a good idea to go back to the basics and start fresh. I fired the ol' dial-arc up and did some practice on 3/8" material. top weld is 6011 1/8" @ 90 amps 6 total passes. Bottom is 6011 root, then 5 7018 1/8" passes at 105 ampsMy tie-ins could be better, as well as smoothness. One question I have is the arc on the 6011 rods when welding the root pass only seemed to want to burn through the flux on the high side and focus on the top plate, maybe it needs more current? I haven't ran sticks in years, so I plan to get good again in all positions before I move back to mig, and tig. My reasoning is stick seems to make you watch the puddle so much more, It should help me improve in other areas. So, any advice would be great, do you think I can move on to verticals, or run a few hundred more beads flat?Thanks Millermatic 252 w/spoolmate 200Miller 250 DialarcLincoln 180 mig pakLincoln mig pak 100Hypertherm Powermax 65Precision Plasma Patriot 4x8 CNC tableEverlast 250ex TIGOxy-acet rig10"x18" Modern BandsawModern 14x40 Lathe
Reply:The only thing you need is more weld time, it will come back........ Miller Dynasty 350Twenty Six HammersThree Crow BarsBig Rock
Reply:1/8" 7018 at 105 amps is a bit on the low side. It's hard to tell in the picts, but I'm betting you had an easier time with slag removal on the last bead vs the 1st one you ran.As said I think you just need the hood time to get back in..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan |
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