Dremel users or any type of grinder to get into really tight spots

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I have a Dremel tool that I rarely use, and I have some rough grit little sanding discs for it that I sometimes use to get into tight spots but the problem is they really dont last long at all, I usually go through them extremely fast like 2-3 discs for 1 complete weld Ive also tried the little grinding stones that come with it as well and have broke those completely offIs there anything better they make for the dremel or any better tool to get into those really tough to reach spots that your regular grinders and sanders cant reachAnything is helpful info thanksLast edited by ralphiejantz; 03-01-2007 at 01:08 AM.
Reply:Originally Posted by ralphiejantzI have a Dremel tool that I rarely use, and I have some rough grit little sanding discs for it that I sometimes use to get into tight spots but the problem is they really dont last long at all, I usually go through them extremely fast like 2-3 discs for 1 complete weld Ive also tried the little grinding stones that come with it as well and have broke those completely offIs there anything better they make for the dremel or any better tool to get into those really tough to reach spots that your regular grinders and sanders cant reachAnything is helpful info thanks
Reply:weld it works great for cleaning rust and stuff out of tight corners but with all the stuff that came with the kit nothing really seems to work well grinding down a weld bead
Reply:The dremel style hobby tools are a scaled down version of the more rugged die grinders. Anyway you need to move on to the carbide burrs. They are wicked on steel, skin, wood or anything they get ahold of. If your requirements are enough move on up to a die grinder with a 1/4" collet. Gives you a broader range of burrs.
Reply:i just picked up a die grinder/cutoff tool on ebay brand new that know one bid on for 17.01.  will work great to feather down the stops on open roots.
Reply:Originally Posted by SandyThe dremel style hobby tools are a scaled down version of the more rugged die grinders. Anyway you need to move on to the carbide burrs. They are wicked on steel, skin, wood or anything they get ahold of. If your requirements are enough move on up to a die grinder with a 1/4" collet. Gives you a broader range of burrs.
Reply:This is similar to what I use in an air die grinder.http://www.amazon.com/Style-Radius-S.../dp/B0007OV6FC"Common sense is not very common"http://www.tahoekeyshome.com
Reply:Probably like most of the guys here, I have several angle grinders, die grinders, flex shaft tools, and Dremels and I think you may simply be expecting too much from your Dremel.  They are really only suited to model work or very fine work, despite what the maker might imply in their promotion.  Just look at the size of the motor and the bits compared to even the smallest angle grinder that has to work hard to remove much metal.  And consider the total area of the abrasive surface on your Dremel bits compared to the working abrasive area of the smallest angle grinder wheel.I think you will find a true die grinder with 1/4" collet chuck much more useful for work on weld beads.  If you have a reasonably powerful compressor, the little pheumatic die grinders are remarkably handy.  Otherwise, the electric die grinders will do a fine job but are much more expensive and sometimes too bulky to get into tight places.  The pneumatics are really not that much larger than a Dremel tool.The cheap pneumatic die grinders and cutoff tools that are often on sale for about $15 to $20 are an amazing value.  At that price you can have several on hand with different bits installed and do a quick-change of the entire tool for different tasks, rather than changing bits for each task.  I picked up several Campbell-Hausfeld die grinders and cutoff tools for around $14 on sale and they are still cranking along years later.  Be sure to lubricate them often and liberally.  You can't over-lubricate an air tool.  Any excess is simply blown out the exhaust, cleaning the tool on the way through it.I also am a big fan of carbide burrs, particularly the larger 3/4" diameter, coarse, cylindrical ones with rounded tip.  One strong caution:  On steel they generate copious amounts of fine, needle-like swarf that will imbed in bare skin and fly all over your work space.  If you try to brush it off your bare arms it will just get imbedded deeper.  Be absolutely sure to wear FULL eye protection goggles, a hat or cap, and a long-sleeved shirt and have a shop vac nearby for quick use before leaving the work area.  I can attest that it is no fun getting one of the needles imbedded in your eye, but I still use the burrs liberally (with protection).awrightLast edited by awright; 03-01-2007 at 03:05 AM.
Reply:Thanks for all the replys guys Im going out to get some carbide bits later today Ive had the dremel for a few years it was a christmas gift a few years back and Ive never really used it before I have some tight corners I was looking to clean up some weld beads on and thought it might work but I guess I was wrong I have several die grinders and 2 makita angle grinders and a small assortment of sanders and what not, I was just hoping to be able to use the flex shaft on the dremely to get down into the areas I wanted to clean up Thanks again for the replys
Reply:got 3 carbide burrs today and tried them out they worked great thanks for the advice
Reply:do watch the fines floating around, they are wicked in the eyes. i just a piece taken out yesterday and had to miss work today."Retreat hell, were just fighting in the other direction"Miller Trailblazer 302, Extreme 12 VS, Dimension 400, Spectrum 375, HF 251D-1, Milermatic 251 w/ spoolgun  Hypertherm 1000Lincoln sp 1702000 F-450 to haul it
Reply:Use a little candle wax on the carbides..Works wonders against galling up the bit.. And bits are $$$$...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Originally Posted by zapsterUse a little candle wax on the carbides..Works wonders against galling up the bit.. And bits are $$$$...zap!
Reply:And you also want to be careful to keep them from bouncing around too much, or you will chip the cutting edges or, worse, chip a chunk out of the burr. Once this happens, it will be far enough out of balance to be unusable, as well as more likely to keep throwing chunks. They're moderately tough for as hard as they are, but still fairly brittle.
Reply:Originally Posted by ralphiejantzdefinately will do that the 3 bits cost me about $65 plus tax, so theyre definately not cheap