Losing focus on tig arc an inch into weld on AL T joints

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I got a chance to run a couple of lap joints and t joints on 1/8 and 1/16 aluminum. I seem to run a barely acceptable bead up until about an inch or so  into the weld, maybe a half dozen  dips with 3/32 filler on 1/8"... I then start to lose eye focus on the arc and I find myself staring at a giant ball of arc that has no definition, happens on T joints especially. I've only run 4 t joints so far, so maybe I need to just do another 20 and I'll figure out what I'm doing wrong.I thought I might be long arcing, but I'm pretty tight into the joint. I switched back and forth between hoods (fixed orange/auto blue/green), and adjusted the sensitivity in an attempt to make sense of it, but that didn't really help.any ideas ?ESAB Heliarc 252
Reply:I've had that happen when I've lost my concentration from staring at the arc.  I guess its a form of flicker vertigo.   Its also happened when I've gotten out of position, to far away from the arc for the cheater lens in the helmet, or looking at an angle through the lens.BTW how are you making out with your Hobart 7018.  I found Hobart 7018 a real b!tch to get the slag off.  With Lincoln rod the slag just pops off with a light tap.Bob
Reply:Originally Posted by Bob_CI've had that happen when I've lost my concentration from staring at the arc.  I guess its a form of flicker vertigo.   Its also happened when I've gotten out of position, to far away from the arc for the cheater lens in the helmet, or looking at an angle through the lens.BTW how are you making out with your Hobart 7018.  I found Hobart 7018 a real b!tch to get the slag off.  With Lincoln rod the slag just pops off with a light tap.Bob
Reply:Is it a vision problem or machine problem? On some tigs with super long gas hoses and high output pressures on the flowmeter, it could take up to 10 seconds for the inert gas to surge out and equalize at the torch. Maybe this is where the problems start? If you are mixing helium in via a Y connection, make sure the higher output pressure flowmeter is on the argon side. That way you will be surging mostly cheap argon into the weld and then the helium flows in and heats arc.If you think it is vision, this is what I do to my weldors to rule out problems. First I stick a #1 magnifier in the hood, and slap an amber safety glasses on thier face. One or the other usually yeilds benefits.Good Luck.Weld like a "WELDOR", not a wel-"DERR" MillerDynasty700DX,Dynasty350DX4ea,Dynasty200DX,Li  ncolnSW200-2ea.,MillerMatic350P,MillerMatic200w/spoolgun,MKCobraMig260,Lincoln SP-170T,PlasmaCam/Hypertherm1250,HFProTig2ea,MigMax1ea.
Reply:Originally Posted by shovelonIs it a vision problem or machine problem? On some tigs with super long gas hoses and high output pressures on the flowmeter, it could take up to 10 seconds for the inert gas to surge out and equalize at the torch. Maybe this is where the problems start? If you are mixing helium in via a Y connection, make sure the higher output pressure flowmeter is on the argon side. That way you will be surging mostly cheap argon into the weld and then the helium flows in and heats arc.If you think it is vision, this is what I do to my weldors to rule out problems. First I stick a #1 magnifier in the hood, and slap an amber safety glasses on thier face. One or the other usually yeilds benefits.Good Luck.
Reply:"haven't touched stick in over a week since I got the TiG set up. but yeah, hobart seemed to have to be beaten in order to get the slag off. What size rod and amps are you running it at?"1/8 7018 @130 amps on 1/4" hot rolled.Let me know if your going to the auction and I'll meet up with you.Bob
Reply:What type of hood are you wearing.   Quite a few people have mentioned certain hoods are good for mig or stick but not TIG..   just a thoughtTiger Sales:  AHP Distributor    www.tigersalesco.comAHP200x; AHP 160ST; MM350P,  Spoolmatic 30A; Everlast PowerTig 185; Thermal Dynamics 60i plasma.  For Sale:  Cobra Mig 250 w/ Push-pull gun.  Lincoln Wirematic 250
Reply:Originally Posted by soutthpawWhat type of hood are you wearing.   Quite a few people have mentioned certain hoods are good for mig or stick but not TIG..   just a thought
Reply:Try welding hotter (more amps... pushing  down on the footpedal more) and faster (faster travel speed.)  That will help you stay more ahead of the heat build-up when you get to the edge.  You'll still have to feather the current down, possibly a lot when you get to the edge, but not allowing the heat to build up should be especially beneficial as you get to the end of the weld at an edge.  Also, consider putting a nice tack weld at the end of the weld before you start so you never need to weld all the way to the edge.  You can also, if needbe, stop in the middle and wait and pause a little bit for the heat to dissipate before doing the last inch.  Even just stopping a few seconds can sometimes make a big difference in being able to maintain control.  Using a smaller diameter or more "pointed" tungsten (the way the tip is ground) may also be helpful for maintaining better control of a low-amp arc.Edit: sorry but I may have misread your problem as being an issue when you get to the last inch of weld.  If you are only able to weld OK for the first inch and are then not able to focus on the arc, maybe look into if you need prescription lenses or something.  Basic question, but, do you have your shade turned up high enough?  Try bumping it up 1-2 shades and see if it helps you see the arc better.  The more amps you weld at, the higher the shade you'll need.Last edited by jakeru; 11-28-2012 at 10:57 PM.
Reply:Blau,How old are you?Your distance vision with contacts has nothing to do with your close up vision.  The ability to see distance is relatively fixed by the angle at which light focuses on the retina through your cornea and your natural eye lens.  Seeing close up requires the ciliary body in your eye to pull your lens into focus.  As many of us 40+ people know, that becomes not so easy anymore, especially at night.The fact that you are pulling the arc towards you in TIG makes me think it might be your problem.  Throw a pair of drugstore cheaters on under your helmet and give it a try.Also, keep looking for a good helmet.  I changed from a Hobart cheapo AD helmet to a Jackson Hellraiser with a Nexgen lens and it made a Huge difference.  Of course, it helped that I got my helmet barely used on CL for $60.Last edited by Drf255; 11-29-2012 at 05:06 AM.TA Arcmaster 300CM3XMT 304S22P12 suitcase feederX-Treme 12VSOptima pulserTA161SMaxstar 150STLHypertherm PM45OP setupStihl 020AVP, 039, 066 Magnum
Reply:When I had a problem focusing on welds a few years ago, I eventually determined it was my vision. In some cases I'd be looking over my regular prescription glasses and viewing the weld directly.  Part of the issue was in some cases I'd get just enough light thru the back of the hood that my eyes would focus on the back of the face plate with the reflections rather than the weld, because my eyes were trying to adjust for the fact my regular glasses were too strong for the distance I was welding at.You might take a trip to the eye doctor. Tell him what you are doing. He can set up the eye chart to determine your prescription based on a distance of say 16-20" rather than the more traditional distance they usually use for glasses. My new work glasses are weak enough that I can focus well at 18" but still strong enough I can use them to drive with if I have to..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:It sounds to me like you are blocking the helmet's sensors.  I've done that before while welding small parts with an auto helmet. (part of the reason that I usually use a fixed shade)Buy American, or don't whine when you end up on the bread line.
Reply:Originally Posted by Drf255Blau,How old are you?Your distance vision with contacts has nothing to do with your close up vision.  The ability to see distance is relatively fixed by the angle at which light focuses on the retina through your cornea and your natural eye lens.  Seeing close up requires the ciliary body in your eye to pull your lens into focus.  As many of us 40+ people know, that becomes not so easy anymore, especially at night.The fact that you are pulling the arc towards you in TIG makes me think it might be your problem.  Throw a pair of drugstore cheaters on under your helmet and give it a try.Also, keep looking for a good helmet.  I changed from a Hobart cheapo AD helmet to a Jackson Hellraiser with a Nexgen lens and it made a Huge difference.  Of course, it helped that I got my helmet barely used on CL for $60.
Reply:You think you might be just overheating the aluminum after an inch or so? It was my first problem when trying to learn how reduce amp with the pedal. The puddle disappears and creates a big heated area instead. Pictures of your test welds would help.What also helped me out was when I move the torch over a few inches I would then be looking over the weld area and no longer seeing how far my tip is on the weld causing irregularities on my weld, I now make sure I have clear view throughout the length I intend to weld. Seeing the welds below the torch was easier for me and keep the tip close enough. I too have the HF (blue flame) auto helmet and the only problem I have with is when using low AC Tig welding OR high amp AC with a down slope setting. During down slope it reduces amp and causes the arc to flame up and helmet not recognizing this and it glares through the helmet. I found out that using a pulse on AC helped low amp welding from glaring through the cheap helmet.Last edited by vicrc; 11-29-2012 at 01:01 PM.