dining room table

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Well decided that i would suprise my wife with a new dining room table, that will be going into our new timber frame house. I decided to copy a certain design that she liked, except make the legs out of steel rather than wood. The top will consist of a 2" thick 4' x 8' walnut slab, and the crossmember at the bottom will be a 3" x 5" thick walnut timber. Had a chance to get started this week, this particular leg is about 75% done, still have to make the "feet" and add a few items to the top. Ill post pictures as i continue on. Will be zero visible welds when completed, just to give some perspective, bottom of the "bulb" is 12" wide, finished height with bottom leg will be 28" high. Bottom leg span will be 44" long, 9" deep, 6" high. Ive added a picture of the particular table ive decided use as a "blueprint" Attached Images
Reply:Awesome craftsmanship!
Reply:that is crazy! we need more pictures of the finshed product.
Reply:I'm liking it already...subscribed!If you don't want to stand behind our Troops, feel free to stand in front of them.
Reply:yes more pics! very awesome
Reply:Dam Pressure, That is some awesome work!!!!!!
Reply:When you make the other lag could you PLEASE take a few construction pictures??? I l;ike where this is going. Also what material thickness did you use for the "bulb"?mooseTimmetalcraft by mooseSoutheast Michiganhttps://www.facebook.com/Metalcraftbymoose  Stupid Hurts!!
Reply:ya sorry guys i suppose i shouldve taken pics during. The bulb is a combination of 4" sch 40, and 12" sch 40, so 1/4" and 3/8". Basically i layed everything out on a 4x8 sheet of steel " my drawing board lol" and at the correct points the pipe is laid out and cut with zipcut. the bottom of the bulge is 4" and measured at 12" wide, top is 12" measured at 7 1/2" wide, so that gives you your taper, of course everything is measure off a center line to produce a symetrical design. Toughest part was making the 45* cuts with a zipcut, alot of layout and eyeballing, and crafty zipcut work!
Reply:Amazing as usual my friend.
Reply:what really gets my goat here is that you guys keep doing stuff that I could do myself BUT I never freaking think of it!!!Very cool build. I love that it isn't a square made of square tubing with square legs and a square base. Can you tell I have no imagination?More pics dude!!!!Lincoln Power Mig 210MP MIGLincoln Power Mig 350MP - MIG and Push-PullLincoln TIG 300-300Lincoln Hobby-Weld 110v  Thanks JLAMESCK TIG TORCH, gas diffuser, pyrex cupThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 101My brain
Reply:That's about the coolest thing I've seen in a while.
Reply:Very nice!I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:pretty cool!Buy American, or don't whine when you end up on the bread line.
Reply:Extraordinary work! I'd like to see build picts as well.I often tell people if you can do high end, stain grade, finish trim, you can cut and fit steel. There's really no other skills required except learning how to handle a different set of tools. I surprised one of my old instructors when I cut and fit up a tube cluster by hand in only about 15 minutes having never done steel tube fit up before. The trick was I cut and fit trim molding all the time, so the basic principals are all the same. You've taken this concept to another level however. You'd done in steel what I often do with wood, doing a built up molding. Doing this with just a zip wheel, rather than with a carbide cold saw to cut the miters certainly wouldn't have been easy. I've had to hand cut and sand to fit, enough oddball pieces to fit preexisting conditions, to know just how hard it is to get all those angles to line up perfect, or if they don't line up right, to then fill and sand until the profiles match right. My hats off to you. You are definitely a true craftsman.I hope when you go to finish this you do so in such a way that the steel plainly shows. It would be a sin to just slap a coat of paint on this, where it wouldn't look any different than if you'd built it all from wood. I have a vision of this in a shinny "chrome" or satin chrome finish somewhat like stainless, or maybe a rust look. A verdigris copper look would be neat, but not really true to the material..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Way too awesome25 years of age.Been welding since Feb 23rd 2009.LU1007 Millwright (A1)
Reply:I agree with DSW,  I'd let it rust just so people would know it's metal and not something you bought from Restoration Hardware.
Reply:thankyou for all the kind comments, i thought id better share this project just incase anyone else wanted to use it as an idea. made some more headway today, finished one "pedestal" and moved onto the "foot" as it were. Itll be a 3 dimensional foot, so there are two forms per foot as shown in the picture. Figured id spend some time on the feet and take a break from pedestal work.... this one took me a solid week to finish its fun, but requires a ton of patients lol. As for finishing i am not too sure what to do yet, the other welder i work with has alot of vision in regards to wood work/finishing etc. Hes made a fair amount of steel furniture at his place and he thinks making the legs a lighter finish would give the table alot of contrast with the dark walnut table top. we would use a darker brown/chesnut base coat on the legs, then go over top of that with a thick brushed on creme, sand type colour, but with very noticable brush strokes. Then you take a dark stain and wipe it onto the leg, and then wipe the excess off. In doing this you have just filled all your low spots with dark stain, also giving the pedestal alot of definition. I figured if i painted it one solid colour it would take alot of definition away. Attached Images
Reply:Yo bud, very SWEET!I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:Wow! I think your wife will love it. Can't wait to see how you decide to finish it.
Reply:Brushed nickel and wood! I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:My god man thats great.Dave ReberWadsworth Ohio
Reply:WOW! great work!www.thefusionsolution.com
Reply:well made some more headway got one just about completely done. Just have to make up the mounting point at the top for the table top. About 70% done the second. Attached Images
Reply:way coolThe Lord has declared, "This is my work and my glory--to bring to pass the immortality and eternal life of man"  Moses 1:39Link: My name is John, and I am a member of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints.-- ColdCreekWorks.com --
Reply:fantasticheESAB Heliarc 252that is just bloody awesome!
Reply:Wow... skills level... over 9000 =)
Reply:so not to loose the handmade look for your work, Id strongly suggest this products for an easy brown acid wash. The tint of the stain can range from a bright copper if heated and left on for just a few minutes to a deep, dark tortoise shell brown.i would use mostly this: http://www.sculptnouveau.com/Details...=34&category=6Japanese Brown is a brown patina for iron and steel, which may be applied hot or cold. i would use this "black" for adding shadows and depth: http://www.sculptnouveau.com/Details...=37&category=6PC-9 Presto Black (Gun Bluing) spray, brush, or immersion. Liquid solution for Iron and Steel.This works best with all the mill scale removed. I apply this combo cold, i do not heat my frames although it would probably look cooler.One of the photos shows brown legs on P/O steel tubing, brown. Stain applied, dried then powdercoated with gloss clear. The photo look pretty monotone but there is lots of visual texture going on there.The other photo shows a normally very plain, solid grey piece of 4x10 .120 hot roll plate with the mill scale NOT removed. Apply the stain, then wrap in saran wrap for an hour, hose off, dry with towels then powder coat with gloss clear powder. can wait to see the complete table!This thread is worth my time to email my .02 cause this is a really really really beautiful table that I'd charge 12k to build. Attached ImagesLast edited by Jimmy_pop; 12-07-2012 at 02:53 PM.
Reply:Awesome job!!  About how much does each "bulb" and "foot" combined weigh?
Reply:Originally Posted by Jimmy_popso not to loose the handmade look for your work, Id strongly suggest this products for an easy brown acid wash. The tint of the stain can range from a bright copper if heated and left on for just a few minutes to a deep, dark tortoise shell brown.i would use mostly this: http://www.sculptnouveau.com/Details...=34&category=6Japanese Brown is a brown patina for iron and steel, which may be applied hot or cold. i would use this "black" for adding shadows and depth: http://www.sculptnouveau.com/Details...=37&category=6PC-9 Presto Black (Gun Bluing) spray, brush, or immersion. Liquid solution for Iron and Steel.This works best with all the mill scale removed. I apply this combo cold, i do not heat my frames although it would probably look cooler.One of the photos shows brown legs on P/O steel tubing, brown. Stain applied, dried then powdercoated with gloss clear. The photo look pretty monotone but there is lots of visual texture going on there.The other photo shows a normally very plain, solid grey piece of 4x10 .120 hot roll plate with the mill scale NOT removed. Apply the stain, then wrap in saran wrap for an hour, hose off, dry with towels then powder coat with gloss clear powder. can wait to see the complete table!This thread is worth my time to email my .02 cause this is a really really really beautiful table that I'd charge 12k to build.
Reply:That is fabulous...definitely thinking outside the box.I have the same question as everyone else...how are you going to finish that pedestal to make sure everyone knows you did this in metal and not wood?KevKevin / Machine_Punk from The Aerodrome Studio - Lincoln PowerMIG 210 MP - Meco N Midget w/custom welding station - Vintage Victor 100Current Projects: The Aerodrome Studio
Reply:Not to sound like an idiot but what about polishing it up and heating it with a rosebud to discolor it? With more color at the corners and etc? Then clear coating it.just gotta be careful it doesn't resemble the $25 mufflers we see on 1992 civics.Miller Dynasty 300 DXMiller CST280Miller Maxstar 150 STH
Reply:ya we thought about that, but it would look to industrial for our timber frame house. Also by putting more heat into it, you definatly risk distortion, which at this point id likely cry if somthing became unsquare or the feet didnt sit flat.
Reply:I think with the look you're going for I'd do a brushed oil look on the legs. dark and rustic as most log homes have that rod iron forged look to the metal hardware.There are no problems. There are only solutions. It's your duty to determine the right one.Hobart Handler 210Airco 225 Amp MSM Stinger
Reply:The second one will be easy now.Attaboy!      Nice job.
Reply:WOW, cant wait to see it finished.JobSmart MIG125Lincoln AC225-SLincoln Pro-Mig 175Dewalt GrindersRidgid ChopsawIR Garage Mate CompressorAny thing worth doing, is worth doing right.
Reply:well can pretty much stroke one leg off the list, all thats really left is to cut the pocket on the inside of the foot to allow for the timber that spans the two legs. Second leg is just about fully complete just requires the top bracket for the table top. The square notches you see will accept 1 1/2" square tubing which will be for our "leave" extensions. the tubing will be figured correctly to accept a walnut wedge which we can lightly tap into place to wedge or force the tubing flat against the table top. Our leaves will be 3' x 4' long, with two 1" thick runners on the bottom which will slide flush on the outside of the tubing holding them in place. Allows the overal table length to be 14' long. Attached Images
Reply:Just beautiful man! Great work!!!!! I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:That is so sick it needs to get to the emergency room.  Very nice work.Lots of toys.
Reply:That's just fancy!
Reply:This is just awesome. Can't find any other words to describe it.Northern Tool MIG/Flux coreWEL-BILT 4 1/2 angle grinderYou gotta start somewhere!
Reply:liking the progress so far, trully a masterpiece.. keep the pics comingJobSmart MIG125Lincoln AC225-SLincoln Pro-Mig 175Dewalt GrindersRidgid ChopsawIR Garage Mate CompressorAny thing worth doing, is worth doing right.
Reply:been fairly busy with christmas and a few forced outages at work SO got some time to finally start the finishing process on the legs, and finishing on the crossmember timber. Each leg got a red oxide primer, followed by a textured dark chestnut base coat, and tonight i started the top coat "raw sugar" its called. Both the chestnut and sugar are oil based paints, it dries quite quickly, but i believe i will need 3 to 4 coats of the raw sugar. Its hard to tell but they have a bit of a texture or grit in them, so it creates a slightly raised or elevated surface which is perfect. After the top coat is finished i will be wiping on a dark walnut stain which will fill these subtle grooves created by the brush and will highlight it and give it depth. I dont believe you would get the full effect if it were a solid colour. And then! after all that, i am going to use 220 grit sand paper to bring the corners and a few selected key areas back to the dark chestnut... i have it all in my head... its just making it happen ! haha Attached Images
Reply:another Attached Images
Reply:Wow! Beautiful work!
Reply:Cannot wait to see the finished project.There are no problems. There are only solutions. It's your duty to determine the right one.Hobart Handler 210Airco 225 Amp MSM Stinger
Reply:Stunning piece! Superb talent and creativity, looking forward to photos of the whole table.
Reply:thanks for all the kind comments fellas. Took about a week but i was able to finish coating one leg, unfortunately the pictures kind of take away from how "dark" the stain make them look. Last two coats were ivory brushed on thick and then a minwax dark walnut stain applied, let sit for about 10 minutes and then wipe off. Then certain sections sanded back to the dark walnut underneath the ivory. its a long process with drying times etc, but im quite happy with how they turned out, second leg is ready for ivory and THEN i get to start coating the 4'x8' x 2" walnut top which will likely take about two weeks, and then i am going to let it cure properly for about 2-3 weeks... and to think i thought constructing the legs took a long time!!! Attached Images
Reply:Just gorgeous bud! I jumped right to the pics before reading and said to myself god dam he made that sh!t look like ivory. Really great work bro I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:thanks man! looking forward to being done!