Aluminum protection

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What do you use to keep aluminum diamond plate from oxidizing? It there a wax or something that can be put on? Kinda tired of polishing it every 2 months with a Mothers powerball to keep it shiny. I don't want to clear coat it either.
Reply:Anodizing?  How big is the diamond plate object?  Does aluminum corrode in Calgary like it does here in the San Francisco Bay Area with its salt air?I cringe at the thought of waxing diamond plate, the purpose of which is to provide a non-slip traction surface.If the object is not too large and you are into experimentation, you could consider anodizing it yourself.  The process requires a pan large enough to submurge the object in, dilute sulphuric acid, a low voltage, high current power source like a battery charger (current requirement depends on surface area), and some dye (optional) and sealer.    Google "anodizing kits."awright
Reply:I've yet to find anything "magic". Anodizing or painting. That reminds me, I've been meaning to look into stainless steel tread plate, if it exists and how expensive it is.Man invented metal, he can do whatever he wants with it.KMAC
Reply:i've never used it but there is a product called zoop seal that's applied to freshly polished Al. some kind of organic chemistry deal. it's supposed to preserve the finish, prevent water marks etc. don't know how well it works or if it's slippery like wax (i'd imagine so- water beads and runs off like a freshly waxed car)probably worth a google though
Reply:KMAC - yes they do make SS diamond plate, be prepared to stretch your wallet beyond it's limits. John -  fabricator extraordinaire, car nut!-  bleeding Miller blue! http://www.weldfabzone.com
Reply:It's tough to keep Al shiney without working at at.The best thing is saphire coating. Saphire it hard, tough, clear, and, best of all, free. It is the fancy name for aluminum oxide. Main probems are that it is somewhat porous, so many chemicals can diffuse through and release it, getting to the base metal in the process, it will stain if not coated, and the aluminum underneath is so soft that even minor impacts will break the coating up, causing it to need to heal. Natural Al2O3 is denser and tougher than most anodizes, in pat because the anodize is done in water, and in part because colored anodize NEEDs to be porous to hold the dye. I'd guess that your best bet is a non-abrasive auto wax or a clear coat.