Watch Your Ground

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The wire machine woes continue  I really do hate wireI've been getting this  Relatively decent butt joint weld, AND THE STUPID MACHINE STARTS SPUTTERING AND SPITTING, AND JUST GENERALLY PUKING  You can see where the crappy thing just stopped workingI cleaned the liner, checked all the connections in the machine, buried the tip in the puddle with minimal stickout, etc...............................................  .............IT WAS THE STINKIN' GROUNDCleaned a spot, and re-clamped it, and good to go.  I can't even begin to tell ya how many welds had to be ground out, and re-done, before I figured out the stupid problem.  EVER TRY TO GRIND ONE OUT, THEN FOLLOW THE LINE WHERE THE OLD ONE WAS?????? IT'S THE PITS!!!  EVEN WITH A PARTIAL GROOVE TO FOLLOW, YOU STILL WIND UP WITH A HIGH STACKED BEAD BECAUSE THERE'S UNDERLAYMENT  YOU SELDOM, IF EVER, HAVE THIS PROBLEM WITH A STICK MACHINE.  Just slap on the ground/work clamp, and go to town......................BUT NOOOOOOOOOOOO, NOT THIS FINICKY CRAPPY WIRE MACHINE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  !!!!!!!!!Here's a quicky DOWNHAND weld  O-MI-GAWD, THE WORLD'S GONNA END TOMORROW!!!!!!!!!  this thin 14ga crap likes to burn through when going uphill, it simply can't take the heat even when the machine is turned all the way down.  It's dicey at best, and you gotta fly like a striped *** ape.  So, in some circumstances it's ok to do downhand like the pipe guys.  Turn it up a bit, and use the force of the arc to keep ahead of the puddle.  These are fast welds too, but with more control because you don't put a lot of heat into the base metal while waiting to build a good uphill puddle.  Not a good idea on thicker material, but ok on this thin stuff.OOMPH!"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:For those who aren't blessed with the shop to do MIG in, or not blessed with the talent to be able to run MIG (me).  The way to do the horizontal out of position butt joints with self shielding flux core is to just point the gun at the round shoulder of the joint, run steady without a washing motion, and let the puddle drizzle down onto the razor edge of the adjoining piece.  You can get away with a washing side-to-side motion on thicker stuff, but not on the thin crap.In a perfect world nothing would be thinner than 3/16" "Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:One of the first things you need to do is loose the stamped metal clamp and get one of these:http://store.cyberweld.com/twcogrclg...FUyY4AodbzwA4g
Reply:When I saw the pic of the grand clamp I actually said aloud "What a piece of crap"!Love your posts amd photography, keep them comming.
Reply:I've heard several pros remind people that bad ground is very often the problem when migs act up.Wire just keeps coming out regardless of the grounding situation...Dave J.Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:psst, Yup.  Getting a good "work lead" (aka 'ground') connection to the workpiece is important.Also remember (or be aware of) the general voltage parameters and the machine's different OCV levels we are talking about here.First, OCV (Open Circuit Voltage).  How much voltage the machine has available when not actually welding, which is how much voltage the machine has available to 'jump' the gap between the electrode (wire or stick) and the workpiece when initiating the arc.  Which is also how much voltage the machine has available  to jump through/across an 'iffy' worklead connection.OCV on a 'tombstone' or similar buzz-box stick welder is something like 80V (Lincoln AC225 or AC/DC225, Lincoln Invertec V155S has max OCV of 75V, etc).  (not considering more recent inverter machines with limited OCV or a switch-selectable lower OCV for safety reasons).OCV on a 'small' wire-feed welder is about 30V  (MM135 120V model OCV is 28V max, MM175 240V model OCV is 30V max, Lincoln SP175 240V model OCV is 33V max, etc, etc).  Even a 'big-boy' wire-feed amchine like a Lincoln PowerMig255 has a max OCV of only 40V max.Next, operating parameters.Stick weld voltage is usually around 24-28V or so (for 3/32 or 1/8 electrodes).  Yes I know that you usually don't set the voltage parameter when stick welding, you set the current.  But that voltage is around what you end up with. (ignoring things like long-arcing, etc).Smaller-diameter GMAW  (0.025 to 0.045 solid wire or so) in short-circuit transfer mode (NOT spray mode!) runs about 14-22V (exact voltage depends on wire size, amperage/WFS used, and also which shielding gas is being used).Parameters for 'small' FCAW-S is similar.  Around 14-20V or so for 0.035-0.045 Lincoln NR-211 wire or Hobart Fabshield 21B or 23 or similar.Getting a good 'ground' connection is import to getting good welds.    The best laid schemes ... Gang oft agley ...
Reply:Sam, I have a better ground clamp on my Sears battery jumper cables."USMCPOP" First-born son: KIA  Iraq 1/26/05Syncrowave 250 w/ Coolmate 3Dialarc 250, Idealarc 250SP-175 +Firepower TIG 160S (gave the TA 161 STL to the son)Lincwelder AC180C (1952)Victor & Smith O/A torchesMiller spot welder
Reply:Reminds me of this:[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mUole3XdAM4[/ame]
Reply:heres how to fix wirefeeder problemsdig holehalf fill with steerschittplace machine in holemore steerschittno more problem   go  burn real rod
Reply:Sam - I think you should really consider using gas to weld with instead of flux core.  I rent four bottles, Oxy - Actelyne - Pure Argon and CO2 / Argon mix for only $200 per year.  It is really cheap and you will be much happier with your wire feed welds.IMHO - "G"ConductorX - The Volkswright Shophttp://volkswright.blogspot.com/http://bugwerks.blogspot.com/Miller DVI w/Spoolgun - Miller Plasma Cutter
Reply:Millers come with that style of ground clamp. I put a TWECO on mine and am much more happy with it. Especailly if you grind the clamping point first.Been there, Done that!
Reply:Originally Posted by bikerdibOne of the first things you need to do is loose the stamped metal clamp and get one of these:http://store.cyberweld.com/twcogrclg...FUyY4AodbzwA4g
Reply:I shouldn't mention this, but in the interest of good conversation I will say that poor grounds are the cause of many problems.With my little buzz box welder I quickly decided to fasten a pair of visegrips to the ground lead.Have not had any trouble since.Well no ground trouble anyway.Regards Chris
Reply:Meh, I had put one of these on in a pinch:  http://www.harborfreight.com/400-amp...amp-66708.html  I have not found a reason to replace it.Harbor Freight Inverter 130 amp DC stick/tig (sold, really!)Lincoln Square Wave Tig 175 AC/DC stick/Tig