What 1/2" drill has the most balls?

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I'm looking for a new drill. I'm looking at this one... But i'm open to suggestions. I'll be using it to notch 1 1/2" to 3" aluminum/steel with a tube notcher and hole saw.Thanks guys.   http://www.milwaukeeconnect.com/weba..._192159_192137
Reply:There are as many opinions as 1/2" drills out there!! I have a Milwaukee just like the one in your link. If not handled properly,it can injure you just with pure torque. It's well built w/ a good VS control and a good chuck.                       JMHO,                                MikeOl' Stonebreaker  "Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"Hobart G-213 portableMiller 175 migMiller thunderbolt ac/dc stick Victor O/A setupMakita chop saw
Reply:I'd think notching tube that large in diameter would be best done on a drill press not with a portable drill motor.WeldingWeb forum--now more sophomoric banter than anything else!
Reply:If you will be doing a lot of notching, deidcate a drill press to the operation.  They're fairly cheap, and a lot safer.  My Makita 1/2" I use would twist your wrist if it happened to catch.  I have a Chicago Pneumatic 1/2" 500 RPM air drill that I use for honing cylinders that can't be stopped.  I'll wrap the hose in knots until you let go of the trigger.Hobart 140 Handler w/ gasHyperTherm Powermax 380 Plasmaoxy/acetylene
Reply:I use a dewalt, It will break your wrist if your not carefull. You only need to be 2% smarter than what you are working on.Lincoln pm140hacksawa big hammer
Reply:I have one of these mounted to a home made drill press.  I know it may be overkill but its what we had laying around.  These would be a little dangerous trying to do it by hand though.http://www.milwaukeeconnect.com/weba..._192163_192137
Reply:My IR 1/2" air drill will take yout arm off if not carefull.Disclaimer; "I am just an a$$hole welder, don't take it personally ."
Reply:Milwalkee..sp?DO NOT EVER LOCK THE TRIGGER DOWN!!!!    ...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Milwaulkees are great drills. I think it's worth it to hook up a cord so as never to get caught with a dead battery. A big old used drill press would make shorter work notching 3' steel pipe though, not to mention less dangerous. If you get an old used drill press make sure you update it with an emergency shut off switch. My old boss got this great big 220 volt drill press that turned on an off only by pluging and unpluging. I immediately garbage picked an old fuse box with a shut of switch on the side and  mounted it to the wall behind the drill. Good thing too because not long after I was using the drill and my leather glove hooked on a 1" drill bit and started streching my fingers but I managed to hit the cut off with my other hand just in time. If I'd have had to reach for the plug on the ground I'd be missing fingers now for sure.
Reply:Originally Posted by TozziWeldingMy IR 1/2" air drill will take yout arm off if not carefull.
Reply:Milwaukee hole hawg is deadly to car and truck frames, works on anything else too.  I also have the one you linked too, and that works great with our rotobroach cutters. (think small hole saw)If you need something portable what about a magnetic drill press?Have we all gone mad?
Reply:I bought the one in the link. It's got HUGE balls. Couldn't have asked for anything more in a drill.
Reply:The old style Milwaukee Magnum 1/2 inch drills are, hands down, the best and ballsiest.  There are other drills that have more power, but the Milwaukee will pull your wrist out of it's socket when the bit binds up.  You don't need anymore power in a handheld.  And, when running big bits and holesaws, it's all about speed control.  Milwaukee's speed control absolutely blows the competition out of the water.  You could turn the drill at 1 rpm if you wanted.This is the one you want:  http://www.milwaukeeconnect.com/weba..._192159_192137Good luck trying to break it.
Reply:Are you sure you aren't barking up the wrong tree?  How abut this: 3/4" chuck, 10 amp, 350 rpm...http://www.milwaukeeconnect.com/weba...192160_192137#Just kidding.... almost nobody needs a drill that powerful... before you buy that, you should be looking at a magnetic drill press if you need a portable application... Milwaukee is the top brand in handheld drills IMHO.  My money is on Milwaukee.  However, I have seldom had a happy experience with hole saws in hadheld drills... stationary or benchp drill press is definitely where it is at for this sort of thing. You can get a benchtop or stationary drill press for not that much money more then a good handheld drill sells for.
Reply:The Milwaukee hole hawgs are designed for using hole saws and large bits. I have used various drills over the last 30 years ,pistol grip,D handle , right angle, and large 2 handled drill motors but the Hole hawgs have been the best for hole saws.
Reply:The trouble with those big 3/4 inch drive drills is that the bits they are designed to turn really shouldn't be turned by a hand drill.  Last time I used one, it took 3 people to run.  It took 2 to hold on and a 3rd to stand on it in order to get the drill bit to make chips.
Reply:Well the hole hawg was specifically designed for WOOD boring for plumbers, its size was necessary to fit in between floor joists and stud walls. Its small compact frame was a dream come true but in lies all that deadly power in such a small package. Proper bracing is of the utmost importance for your safety and the quality of the cut. It splits hardwood  floor joist with a blink of an eye if it catches on low speed. No matter if your using a 1.5 " bit or the big 4.625" bit.   On high speed if it catches it will usually blow out the gear shift dog or just eat a hyvo gear in the back case  after some time and multiple catches or sudden stops.  I own 4 currently and my best one has never been repaired, and its about 20 years old or so. My newest ones usually get about 2-4 years depending on the employee. I even had one dumbarce blow 2 in 1 month.  Its all in how careful you are and if you want to see the doctor halfway thru your drill operation.  i have seen fingers lost, stomachs punctured, hands and arms shuved upward thru the 3/4" floor plywood and left the man hanging with fingers crushed on the trigger. I am not sure how well it will do for lots of drilling on mild or hardened steel but it does take alot of heat soak before you notice anything. Big cords and proper bracing.......oh and a magnetic drillbase ..........500 AMP AIRCO TIG LINCOLN PT185 100% DC @ 128 AMP-WTFSPEED GLASS 9002X MILLER THUNDERBOLT 225HOBBIEST TURNED WELDING JUNKIE8 2ND FIRECAT - SNOWMOBILE RACE CHASSIS FABRICATORPRIDE IS WHAT MAKES YOUR WORK SO GOOD
Reply:My Milwaukee 1/2" is the best. If there is anything better you wouldn't be able to tell the difference. Ideas Without Action are Folly
Reply:I have a Hole Hog and a DeWalt rt. angle.  I like them each in it's own way.  The Hole Hog will break something (your wrist) on low when (not if) it binds up.  The DeWalt has a clutch on low gear and will help allow you to hold the drill when the **** hits the fan!http://www.dewalt.com/us/products/to...p?productID=28It's good for wood but I thing if I needed this much power I would want a mag  drill.Me!
Reply:My dewalt almost did break my wrist.... I have the scars to prove it!
Reply:Originally Posted by aDreamSoRealI'm looking for a new drill. I'm looking at this one... But i'm open to suggestions. I'll be using it to notch 1 1/2" to 3" aluminum/steel with a tube notcher and hole saw.Thanks guys.   http://www.milwaukeeconnect.com/weba..._192159_192137
Reply:I used to use a 1/2 inch milwaukee all the time until one day I bought a 1/2 inch dewalt with a keyless chuck. For some reason my dewalt drills faster. The milwaukee will bind up and snap your wrist but the same hole with the dewalt doesn't do it. I still use both it just depends on what I'm drilling.Golf Supplies | Golf Carts | Yamaha golf cars
Reply:I'm saving up for one of these to do all my notching n prep work (Amoungst other things)http://www.radiusmaster.com.au/belt-...plications.htmAnyone had any experience with one of these.................REgards lou Attached ImagesJust do the best u can with what u have at the time
Reply:Any Milwaukee 1/2 inch is a good drill.  If I needed something with extra balls then I would look to a magnetic drill.  If you can't keep it steady then having the balls doesn't do you any good.  A good mag drill to work on large holes is the way to go.  I don't own one but I've been around them and if I can find the right deal eventually one will show up in the shop.MichaelMillermatic 25115" Rockwell Drill Press10" Logan Lathe5hp - 2-stage 80 Gallon CompressorHome Made Sand / Soda Blaster
Reply:I agree with you Big block...Milwaukee makes a good 1/2 inch drill. You wanna have strong wrists or it'll wrap you up. And a mag drill with a slug cutter is the way to go on big holes. I often prefer a mag drill to punching on the iron worker, especially with big stock. By the time you man handle it, it would have been easier with the mag. They have come a long way. We have an old Dinosaur mag drill and also some nice new ones...they are super light weight and they work as good as the big brute. Walter, I believe the name on them is. They're pricey, but soon pay for themselves if you're doing a lot of structural steel.Originally Posted by Lou2uI'm saving up for one of these to do all my notching n prep work (Amoungst other things)http://www.radiusmaster.com.au/belt-...plications.htmAnyone had any experience with one of these.................REgards lou
Reply:Originally Posted by William McCormick Jr...But if you let go, boom right in the butt. And I am talking about an inch or two away. I would get something in writing that their machine will not do that. I am not joking...
Reply:Originally Posted by denrepI would pay extra for that feature.If it won't do that, I don't want it.I am joking!
Reply:Originally Posted by William McCormick JrI am telling you, that stuff is great. I do hunting knife sharpening and polishing as well as fillet knife sharpening for one of my brothers that is a captain. I also polish the knifes when I am done grinding. It looks like a factory edge. If you try this wear a leather apron and steel boots. Because every now and then you lose a knife and it shoots downward.I lost a chrome hunting knife, and it slit my dungarees from crouch to ankle. But the interesting thing is one winter I was down doing some knifes for my brother, and I had the little polisher on an aluminum welding table. Behind the polisher on the welding table there was a 2x4 piece of lumber. I start to polish the knife. And what looked like ghostly pictures of the lumber, started to jump at my hands. With electrical energy. It was wild. I did it for about five minutes, trying to figure it out. I can't wait for winter. I am going to remove some of my angle hair wire spools and strange uncommon stuff and see if I can reproduce it both ways. Sincerely,William McCormick