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Dry air question

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发表于 2021-8-31 22:55:41 | 显示全部楼层 |阅读模式
Thanks in advance. I am having an issue with my air supply in that I am getting water in my lines.. I am hoping for some solutions and hope for something I can build myself as $$$$ are in short supply...Sam
Reply:Originally Posted by EldershopThanks in advance. I am having an issue with my air supply in that I am getting water in my lines.. I am hoping for some solutions and hope for something I can build myself as $$$$ are in short supply...Sam
Reply:Build a Franzinator.Everlast PowerPro 256, Everlast W300 Cooler, Everlast Cart 250Millermatic 211, Spoolgun 100, Miller HD CartJackson W60 Truesight Digital Auto Darkening, Victor 315 Torch sitting on a Harper 830-86 cart
Reply:A Franzinator probably helps some, but the important thing is to cool the air to let the moisture condense out.   25 feet of metal pipe is going to cool the air better than the Franzinators that I have seen photos of.   It is pretty easy to see how your system is working.   If the pipe is cool near where you are taking the air out, you are good.   If not, you need more pipe.   When I run air tools continuously, my pipe will get warm all the way to the end of the 25 feet of pipe, so I know that I am not getting all the moisture out.  Ideally I would have the recommended 50 feet of pipe.It is really a laws of physics question, you have to cool the air to get the moisture out.   Whatever cools the air will work.  You could run some copper pipe through an ice bath if you wanted, as long as you had a good drain system to get the moisture out.  (The ice bath is not a serious proposal, just an example of what could work).Sculptures in copper and other metalshttp://www.fergusonsculpture.comSyncrowave 200 Millermatic 211Readywelder spoolgunHypertherm 600 plasma cutterThermal Arc GMS300 Victor OA torchHomemade Blacksmith propane forge
Reply:You need to be more specific as to what you have now for someone to answer you.I will write a few things here of what I've read/know, but best to read the thread I linked below where I asked a few questions of the same type not so long ago .Here is a list of what you can do:- As a minimum :You need a regulator/filter which will catch a lot of the waterespecially if the piping is done correctly . Changes in direction of piping leadto decrease in speed of air/condensation .Also, the wider the pipe, the slower the air speed,the more condensation. At a minimum, you should have one dropof pipe from ceiling with an upward link where the air connection is and water drain valve at the bottom of the drop. You need distance from compressor to the filter to givethe air a chance to cool.The piping can cool the air if it is made of some metal.I and others I've read all this from suggest copper or better. Black pipe/zinc willcorrode (this will cause other problems - don't use it). See this thread for more details:http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...239#post369239- For more condensation using piping, make zig-zags (see post #45 in above thread forpictures of my "artistic" air cooler  . As an alternative to the zig-zaging of pipe there is zig-zaging in mini form (look up franzinator),cooling coils in a fridge and other combinations.- desiccant dryer - motor guard filter   For any means which uses a medium for cooling, make sure you havea praticulate filter at the end to ensure you don't create other issueslike having these particles enter machines like your plasma cutter.- costs $ / electricity - Air dryer - (cheapest you will hear about is at Harbor Freight)Until now I have not used the plasma cutter enough to know how goodmy air cooling is, but I can't see any water coming out of the hose afterthe filter and not even at the filter - I only see water at the compressor drain (I turn the compressor off and drain it each day I use it since I don't use it so often).P.S. By filter, I mean a 3 stage filter including water/oil/particulate filtering
Reply:I have a 3/4" RapidAir system with 60' of tubing before the first drop.  Prior to the drop I have a Tee that is sideways and a tube that continues down with a valve at the bottom. This is where I drain water out of the pipe (the amount that has condensed out of the cooler air).  After that I have an oil/water separator to catch as much as it can before getting to my hose. I paint and sandblast with the hose at this first connection and haven't had any issues yet.I can post pictures if you need me to.GravelThe difference between theory and practice is that in theory there is no difference.
Reply:I built an air dryer years ago. Just recently up graded to a refrigerated unit. I think the home made one actually did a better job. Attached ImagesDon’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:More pictures. Attached ImagesDon’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Look at CEP's 3rd picture. This cools the air before it goes to the tank. In my opinion this is the best way to do it. Cooling the air after is a bonus, but this method cuts way down on how much water will be inside your tank to produce rust. One of these days I'm going to do the same...GravelThe difference between theory and practice is that in theory there is no difference.
Reply:http://weldingweb.com/attachment.php...1&d=1414786774Are you running water through that like a still, or the bucket is just a nice place to put the coil ?
Reply:Originally Posted by 12345678910http://weldingweb.com/attachment.php...1&d=1414786774Are you running water through that like a still, or the bucket is just a nice place to put the coil ?
Reply:That's what I meant.OKDoes the water condense in the bottom of that coil in the bucket & how do you clear it ?
Reply:I built one of the ice bucket ones years ago for painting. It worked great! Just need to add ice before you paint. I just kept gallon jugs of ice in the shop freezer and put them in the water when I needed it really dry. Add a motorguard filter for your plasma cutter.
Reply:Originally Posted by 12345678910Does the water condense in the bottom of that coil in the bucket & how do you clear it ?
Reply:Redneck special.Using this as desiccant.Been using it for 4 years, no problems.It dries air for the shop.Got a Motor Guard filter on my plasma cutter for a final drying. Been running the same filter in it for almost 3 years and it's still dry.
Reply:The way it is pipe can make a lot of difference.  also pipe a drain in the tank with a 1/4 turn ball valve, and drain the tank daily. Attached ImagesLast edited by Farmerboy; 11-01-2014 at 10:04 PM.
Reply:Hey cep i got one just like that Attached ImagesThe main thing is not to panic or get excited Bobcat 250, X-Treme 12VS,  MM211Meltabo, Milwaukee,Porter Cable,Dewalt,MakitaVictor O/A, Ingersoll-RandEvolution Rage2, 40 amp PlasmaLincoln 225 AC/DC
Reply:Thanks guys.. A lot of good ideas and info..I currently have on eof the toilet paper filters and a water trap filter in series but the other day when doing quite a bit of sanding with my DA I noticed water in the exhaust of the DA..Not good so I have now some ideas of what to do.. Will update when I get er fixed..Sam
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