Tack tack tack

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[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j47Sgvj3Whw&feature=share[/ame]I've read on here a hundred times that this kind of welding is "wrong".  I don't do it, I would have done these by overlapping 3 or 4 runs per joint so I could rotate the part in between.  Is there every any reason to weld like this?
Reply:my assumption would be for the typical "dime stack" look everyone likes to see without the skill required to weld these perticular parts... either that or to keep warping of the material down to a minimal
Reply:If you are referring to what looks like multiple, non-stop tack-welds, to me it sure does seem like he is doing tiny little runs, and then stopping to reposition his torch/hand in order to weld another run adjacent to the last one.  On such small diameter tubing, the gun angle has to be continuously changing in order to have the puddle going where you want it to go and in order to be able to even see the puddle correctly in the first place.  Same thing for TIG on small tube.  Unless you have a rotating fixture to rotate the tube for you, I can totally see welding multiple small runs, repositioning, and continuing.
Reply:hate videos with lousy, techno pop music..tackleexperts.comwww.necessityjigs.comhttps://www.facebook.com/groups/mach...dingequipment/
Reply:Originally Posted by brucerhate videos with lousy, techno pop music..
Reply:I don't remember being taught that in Welding school and have never passed a weld certification test doing that! Just saying!
Reply:Originally Posted by vpd66I don't remember being taught that in Welding school and have never passed a weld certification test doing that! Just saying!
Reply:Originally Posted by OscarSo how did you weld small diameter tubing all the way around the circumference without a rotating jig?
Reply:Originally Posted by vpd66With mig, 1/4 way around, stop, turn the piece, 1/4 way around, stop, turn the piece,  1/4 way around, stop, turn the piece, 1/4 way around, done. Same with tig.
Reply:I presume he is using high heat and what appears to be a stitching progression backstepping his welds.  If it is just a bunch of tacks on top of each other then that would be wrong.  tiny heat controlling stitches are just fine.I hate technopop!
Reply:Originally Posted by vpd66With mig, 1/4 way around, stop, turn the piece, 1/4 way around, stop, turn the piece,  1/4 way around, stop, turn the piece, 1/4 way around, done. Same with tig.
Reply:Has anyone thought to ask Parts Shop MAX USA on youtube?
Reply:Without a positioner it is difficult no doubt, I could only guess what those parts are used for so hard to tell how detrimental strength has to be, but I would have tigged them just to keep the strength and penetration as best as possible with all the short starts and stops. There is power in numbers, and you could never underestimate the strength of a good tack, but if the stack o dimes look is needed to go along with a high end product I would say tig it unless you have room enough to make fluid passes with the mig that look like this.  Attached ImagesI hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:If you watch his hands you can tell he is just making alot of tack welds. When he keeps the arc going it is because he is filling a small gap, you can see the gaps in the video.    I wouldn't make welds like this, but maybe it doesn't matter for these parts.Airco Ac/Dc 300 HeliwelderMillerMatic 200 (stolen)Miller Maxstar 150STLMiller AEAD200LE (welding and generating power) Hobart MIG
Reply:Tack tack tack  -  Nine minutes and forty-four seconds of how not to do something  -  Opus
Reply:They're rear suspension arms for 90's Nissan 240SX. The welding technique does not inspire confidence, but all the guys buying them think they know something about welding by looking for the exaggerated "stack of dimes" look. The good news is that the loading on this arm is shared by 2 other arms, so it's actually not as highly stressed as one would intuitively think. But that doesn't excuse poor welding technique for the sake of aesthetics...
Reply:I took a good look again at the video, and yea that's an excessive amount of tack welds.  Damn these eyeglasses.
Reply:Originally Posted by DefThey're rear suspension arms for 90's Nissan 240SX. The welding technique does not inspire confidence, but all the guys buying them think they know something about welding by looking for the exaggerated "stack of dimes" look. The good news is that the loading on this arm is shared by 2 other arms, so it's actually not as highly stressed as one would intuitively think. But that doesn't excuse poor welding technique for the sake of aesthetics...
Reply:I've had quite a few laughs as to what the average car enthusiast thinks makes a good weld... So yes, it's extremely scary that someone without the proper knowledge is fabbing these parts up.
Reply:personally I dont like the "stack of dimes" look, makes me want to take an angle grinder to them and smooth them out a little bit
Reply:I will say, I thought the weld fixture tooling and the two piece fiberglass template for the fishmouth marking pretty clever.  He must make a lot of those things.  I've seen weld tooling like that before, but never the fiberglass sleeve thing.
Reply:I have made water tight welds on boats 12 & 14ga  using that method it always passed coast guard inspection. As long as your running hot and tie in. It works better... ie less pinholes, coldlap warpage and looks better than running the beadjorian1959 lincoln sa 200/yanmar4tne86miller bobcat 250ntmiller 180 easy set
Reply:Originally Posted by zipzitI will say, I thought the weld fixture tooling and the two piece fiberglass template for the fishmouth marking pretty clever.  He must make a lot of those things.  I've seen weld tooling like that before, but never the fiberglass sleeve thing.
Reply:I do some repair and modification on drag race stuff,  funnycars especially and a few dragsters.I saw a pair of A-Arms mig welded just like this fail.  The weld simply pulled off the tube in places and failed right down the middle of the weld in others.  Almost 0 penetration with only the glop of weld holding it together.  Good thing  the failure was backing up after a burnout and not at 250+ mph. When he fishmouthed the tubes he did not chamfer the edges far enough so he was really welding on some very thin edges, especially at the more pointy edges.  I don't think he got very good penetration.  Looks like 1/8" material then welded to the 1/4" mounts. Looks like he was using a lot of heat,  probably his saviour.When I do a-arms I chamfer the edges so I can get 100% pen all the way around..  I make a test part first to make sure of technic as each set is different. I polish the outside of the tubes with emory paper and clean the inside and outside with clean acetone.  I drill a small hole in each blind end tube to prevent blow out.  Heat builds up very fast when Tig welding these so I lightly pre heat to about 150 deg then do a root pass and let it cool before the final pass.  Keep the HAZ down as much as possible. Yeah it takes a bit longer but I've seen stuff hit the guard rail really hard and just bend the a-arms or rip the whole structure off the frame...a=arms and mounts intact.The little sleeve fixture was a nice touch.  Any solid fixture is a help when building this type of part.I can't handle any kind of music when I work.  Very distracting.  If it were my shop I'd cut the plugs off anything that made that kind of "noise".