Alum. tig problems

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I'm trying to weld some 1/4" alum angle to 1/4" sheet. I have wire brushed the pieces with a SS brush and wiped with acidtone. The weld seem to just erode and never forms a good puddle. Also, you'll notice its hard to get the arc to start. Any ideas on whats causing these issues?Synco 250AC 210AHF set to 100HF set to continuousBal set to 7Ground clamped to 1/4" sheet1.5% Lanthanated (Also tried ceriated and 2% lan)http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=EQSkpG2Xyrw Attached Images
Reply:First off check your gas flow. From what I see 10 to 15 cfh would be right. Then check to see that it is coming out of your cup efficiently. If your backcap is bad, or collet crushed or backwards, or collet is not seated, you will have a gas delivery problem.Second from your vid, I see that you are not melting the base enough, and the joint is not closed. Then you need to cram the rod in before it dribbles away. Other than that it looks like a correct arc.Last edited by shovelon; 02-03-2013 at 12:31 AM.Weld like a "WELDOR", not a wel-"DERR" MillerDynasty700DX,Dynasty350DX4ea,Dynasty200DX,Li  ncolnSW200-2ea.,MillerMatic350P,MillerMatic200w/spoolgun,MKCobraMig260,Lincoln SP-170T,PlasmaCam/Hypertherm1250,HFProTig2ea,MigMax1ea.
Reply:210 amps is too low. Crank up the amps to at least 270-300 for 1/4". The problem is that with your amps too low, the alum is sucking out the heat faster than you are pumping it in. You won't have any luck until you get that whole piece super hot..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:I second not enough amps.  For only 210 amps on a 1/4 lap joint I do not believe there was a good puddle formed in that short of time.Dave J.Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:I agree, not enough amps. My tig machine tops out at 310 amps and I have to use all of that to get a puddle on 1/4" aluminum.
Reply:ditto on more ampsSharp point on tungsten?....with a little more stickoutVideo shows the torch and rod dancing all around--need both hands resting, rock steadyRun arc up and down both edges to preheat, keep doing untilseeing some wet, glistening of the parent plate getting the first surface melt,then add just a touch of filler, then more to make a little puddle, then makebigger puddle.The quicker the puddle bonds to both edges, the quicker and more uniformthe heat input will spread to both pieces....and the quicker one can run the bead.AL has 3X the heat capacity of steel--it just soaks up heat.Blackbird
Reply:The picture above sure looks like there is a problem with inert gas coverage to me.  Could be using the wrong gas, or contaminated gas, or gas leak being present somewhere in the system, etc.(Note that I could only get about the first second of your youtube video to play, after which it just said  "this video is not available").
Reply:Yep more amps will help. I see people have problems with aluminum alot, often from too much argon flow. From the video it looks like you have a #6 cup on the torch, I like 13-20CFH with that size.Airco Ac/Dc 300 HeliwelderMillerMatic 200 (stolen)Miller Maxstar 150STLMiller AEAD200LE (welding and generating power) Hobart MIG
Reply:Ditto the above. You're not holding long enough to "flow" the parent metals. That plate on the bench is going to take a lot of heat to puddle. Slow down. Get a puddle before bringing in the filler. When that occurs, be ready to go!  All I'm seeing so far, is is filler being drooled onto the plate. That's why you see those black spots and white looking powdery stuff.Concentrate on the plate area first close to the angle as the heat buildup period on the plate will will be affecting the angle temperature significantly. It will melt the angle before the plate puddles. Then bring in the torch toward the angle. Once it happens, it's going to happen fast.Don't know if this makes much sense to you, but I look for puddle formation with the "molten man" (Predator) sheen before bringing in the filler. I watch for the changes as I'm heating up. Dull greys, some crazing appearance and even black splotches. That's the cleaning action taking place. It will go away when the puddle forms. If the "cleaning" is prolonged, I stop and wire brush again. Sometimes the oxidize is just stubborn to remove.Different alloys and surface conditions come into play considerably.Play with some scrap.
Reply:You can also set balance to full penetration...    not sure with syncros if that is 1 or 10.  If u prep properly there is no reason for extra cleaning on new metalTiger Sales:  AHP Distributor    www.tigersalesco.comAHP200x; AHP 160ST; MM350P,  Spoolmatic 30A; Everlast PowerTig 185; Thermal Dynamics 60i plasma.  For Sale:  Cobra Mig 250 w/ Push-pull gun.  Lincoln Wirematic 250
Reply:10 is max pen on a Syncro.  That's 68% EN.FWIW, I too see your problem as melting the filler with the arc as opposed to sliding it in the puddle.  I see your left handed, but I can't tell if you're using a gas lens or not.  I can turn my Argon down to 12 with a #8 cup and still get gas coverage without turbulence with one.You cant dip before there's a puddle with Aluminum.  It ain't like steel where you can melt that blob right into the parent metal and get a shiny bead.TA Arcmaster 300CM3XMT 304S22P12 suitcase feederX-Treme 12VSOptima pulserTA161SMaxstar 150STLHypertherm PM45OP setupStihl 020AVP, 039, 066 Magnum
Reply:Using a syncrowave 250?  Might have better results w pure tungsten. You can sharpen but it should round the tungstenon on it's own.  Kinda looks like you have contaminated tungsten, and are you pinning it at 210 amps? That should be plenty but it appears a bit cold.HammerFile Big Hammer------------------------------Here, let me Google that for you...
Reply:Tungsten, gas, filler, AC balance...I think folks are WAY over analyzing  this.  The OP is no were close to initiating a puddle anywhere. A few drops of filler have been melted by the arc and dropped onto cold parent metal.  There's no welding going on anywhere.Squre you torch to the joint and pour some heat into in untill you see two puddles. Add your filler metal to the puddle and alow the PUDDLE to claim your filler metal.  Once you've got that covered you can start to address technique issues.  Stick with it, it'll come. WSyncrowave 300Maxtron 450, S-52E, 30A
Reply:I've been using 1.5% lanthanated on my Syncrowave and I'm loving it for Aluminum.I think before joining any pieces of aluminum you should be just trying to attain a stable puddle like Wendell said.  As well, keep practicing. I can't even tell you how much I love acetone.JoeMiller 140 Autoset (2010)Miller Syncrowave 250 (1996)
Reply:Also, what size filler are you using? Probably going to want 1/8" or bigger, otherwise you'll have hard time even getting it into the shielding gas before the heat from the arc melts it with that much amperage. That will give you contamination every time.
Reply:Originally Posted by ZmechanicAlso, what size filler are you using? Probably going to want 1/8" or bigger, otherwise you'll have hard time even getting it into the shielding gas before the heat from the arc melts it with that much amperage. That will give you contamination every time.
Reply:Originally Posted by joebieOn the contrary, 1/8" is very large.  Probably better off with 1/16" or 3/32" IMO.  I think filler size is dependent on the person/travel speed/heat.
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWFiller size also depends greatly on torch angle. I see a lot of students who want to  lean the torch way over to try and see the tungsten easier. That blows a ton of heat out in front of the torch and quickly melts small dia filler. It annoys them when I can sit there and do the same joint with 1/16" filler and they can't get near the puddle with 3/32". The "trick" is I keep the torch almost vertical and they have theirs laid over almost 45 deg... It usually doesn't take more than one or two times of doing this to demonstrate to them the importance of keeping the torch straighter.
Reply:Originally Posted by Drf25510 is max pen on a Syncro.  That's 68% EN.FWIW, I too see your problem as melting the filler with the arc as opposed to sliding it in the puddle.  I see your left handed, but I can't tell if you're using a gas lens or not.  I can turn my Argon down to 12 with a #8 cup and still get gas coverage without turbulence with one.You cant dip before there's a puddle with Aluminum.  It ain't like steel where you can melt that blob right into the parent metal and get a shiny bead.
Reply:Already lots of good advice here, so I will add to it rather than repeat it:To get the base hotter, strike the arc and then run a pass down the line a few inches; run back quickly to the start, and bury your foot in the floor, and you will see a much better puddle form.I have welded miles of seams on sheet 1/4" with a 200A welder. You CAN do it, but you need to add some heat, because as was pointed out, the sheet sucks up vast amounts of heat from the arc.For the tungsten, stick to red; the brown and gold are okay, but the thoriated seems to be good with the synchro 250.The point made about needing the puddle before the filler is very spot on advice; follow that lead!And then, after so much work...... you have it in your hand, and you look over to your side...... and the runner has run off. Leaving you holding the prize, wondering when the runner will return.
Reply:Originally Posted by soutthpawOnly 68%  that's not much, I doubt I would ever move of 10 then unless I was doing some Al like an oil pan or trans casing etc...
Reply:Personally I think it is the country music in the background of your youtube video. It's been scientifically proven that listening to Heavy Metal music makes you a better welder. LOL. Just kidding.
Reply:Originally Posted by AluminumWelderPersonally I think it is the country music in the background of your youtube video. It's been scientifically proven that listening to Heavy Metal music makes you a better welder. LOL. Just kidding.
Reply:Originally Posted by AluminumWelderPersonally I think it is the country music in the background of your youtube video. It's been scientifically proven that listening to Heavy Metal music makes you a better welder. LOL. Just kidding.
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWNo, no, no... Heavy Metal is for  big steel and heavy iron. You want light rock for alum, may be something on the heavier side because of that alum thickness as opposed to soft rock.....  Jeeeess