TIG setup help

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I found a deal on a Synchrowave 180 with 4 hrs on it. I couldnt resist and bought it. The problem is I have never tig welded before and I am wondering what the best setup is. It came with a bunch of green tungsten and red Thoriated. The owners manual gave me 5 different tungsten choices and didnt really say much about bennies of one over an other. I am just looking to find a "catch all" tungsten to help me learn. I am gonna start with mild steel first and move on. My first attempt went ok. I was too hot for the 1/16" tungsten and burnt it up after a few short welds. It was however much easier that O/A welding. Thanks,RGRG_______________________Hobart 187Northern Tool Plasma 375Harris 85 O/A Rig (Ireland)
Reply:Use red for steel and stainless, green for alum. For an "all in one" tungsten, you can use either ceriated or lanthanated. 3/32" is a good "general" size to work with to start.You might want to go onto millers site and down load their tig manual and read thru it for starters. It will cover a lot of your questions. There have been a ton of "how to tig" posts done here in the past. I'll try and dig up one of mine later to link it, as I'm pressed for time right now..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:While I'm still waiting I dug thess  up... They should get you started even though it's not the one I was thinking of I did recently. Originally Posted by DSWAs said posting up as much info as possible will help get you the feedback you are looking for. That and picts of your welds so we can critique them.As far as starting out from zero. Set up your machine the way the manual tells you for DC tig. Get yourself some 1/8" thick 3" or so wide flat bar, say 6" long, and grind/sand off all the mill scale. You'll probably want a dozen or so minimum. Set the machine at 150 amps or so and get comfortable. 1st few runs should be done with no filler. All you are doing is practicing getting the arc started and learning to control the arc with the pedal. Extend the tungsten out from the cup about 3/8" to 1/2" so you can see the arc well. You want to keep the tip of the tungsten about 1/8"-3/16" from the plate. If you are right handed you start on the right and move left. Reverse if you are a lefty. You want to run some puddles and watch what happens as you push down on the pedal and let up. See how much heat it takes to melt holes. Speed up and slow down your travel. See just how small you can maintain a puddle... If you touch the tungsten to the puddle, stop and regrind. Also after you run 2 or 3 beads, set that plate asside to cool and get another, or cool the plate in water. If you don't the heat will build up and act like you upped the amps.Once you have the hang of this, grab some filler and try running plain beads on pate. Remember you melt the filler with the puddle, NOT the arc. Thats a common beginner error. When you can run good beads time after time, try laying one 1/2 way over the 1st between the plate and the bead. You are learning the basics for a filet bead now.After this, go on to lap joints, T joints, outside corners and then but joints in that order flat on the table. Then same sequence starting with beads on flat plate and progressing thru the joints again for horizontal, vertical and eventually overhead.Expect this will take quite some time. Most students at the tech school can get thru flat and part of horizontal in the 48 hr term with guidence. Without direct feedback from someone watching you, expect to take longer.
Reply:I bought these books from miller,but these are the free PDF versions of the books.. I would definitely check these out as they do have some really useful information. This was recommended by another user on these forums a while back, can't remember who for the life of me.http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...pamphlets.html
Reply:Buy some 2% Lanthanated on eBay.  $20 for 10 3/32".  Then don't look back.Work great for aluminum and steel, no theoretical radiation problems, make tiny ball at the end with welding as opposed to balling or finger projections.You find that others recommend some different ones, but you won't find someone saying anything bad about 2% Lanthanated.TA Arcmaster 300CM3XMT 304S22P12 suitcase feederX-Treme 12VSOptima pulserTA161SMaxstar 150STLHypertherm PM45OP setupStihl 020AVP, 039, 066 Magnum
Reply:A great place I found for 2% lanthanated is HTP-usaweld.com.Weld like a "WELDOR", not a wel-"DERR" MillerDynasty700DX,Dynasty350DX4ea,Dynasty200DX,Li  ncolnSW200-2ea.,MillerMatic350P,MillerMatic200w/spoolgun,MKCobraMig260,Lincoln SP-170T,PlasmaCam/Hypertherm1250,HFProTig2ea,MigMax1ea.
Reply:Originally Posted by Drf255Buy some 2% Lanthanated on eBay.  $20 for 10 3/32".  Then don't look back.