How to make your Stick welds look cleaner?

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Hey hows it going? =)Well i started welding yesterday found a nice little spot to get some welds going on and at first i was having trouble starting the arc but today i feel like i got it down a bit more. Was just wondering what do you guys do to make your stick welds look cleaner? Mines vary some look a little hilly and others look nice and smooth but they're curved lol =P Any advice would be awesome!!!
Reply:Picts would help. My 1st guess is you aren't consistent in your travel speed, arc length and rod angle. but without picts it's tough to make suggestions on where you need to work to improve..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:There we go I was using a 6013 rod if that helps out?Srry if the pics are to big >.> Attached Images
Reply:Amp setting would help as well. From the long ropey welds, I'd say you are going too fast #1. A full rod ought to give you 6-8" of weld. If you are getting more, you are going too fast. 6013 is a drag rod. You can keep the flux coating in constant contact with the steel as you weld. If your travel speed, amps and rod angle is also correct, your slag will peal off or flake off with a light drag with no effort and leave you with a nice bead. If you are beating the slag off with some effort, your settings, travel speed, arc length etc needs adjustment.Again consistency is key. You want to travel at a nice even rate, keep your arc length the same thru the whole rod ( it's easy with 6013 as you just keep the flux in contact with the plate) and maintain a consistent rod angle. Amps will depend on size of rod you are using. I'd go mid range to 75% of suggested range as a starting point. ( suggested range is usually on the package).No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Awesome =P I'll try that out next time... Although if i go to slow wouldn't i blow a hole in the metal? If and when i blow a hole how would i go about fixing it?
Reply:Not if you are using the right size rod amp combo. That's why it's key when asking questions on how to improve welds, to include all the information, rod type, size, amps used, AC or DC+ / DC-, material ( if other than steel) and thickness.As far as patching holes, that takes a bit more skill, especially with stick. Usually you need to wait until the material cools some what, and then make a series of small tacks on the edge until the hole closes up.If I get a chance tomorrow, I'll post up some picts of welds I did on Friday using 1/8" 7018 @ 125 amps doing lap welds with 14 ga sheet on 1/8" angle. I'd have rather ran 3/32" rod on lower amps, but I didn't have any with me. A really tight arc and a relatively fast travel speed kept me from blowing any holes in the angle..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Sounds good =P The metal i was welding was probably about 1/4 of a inch maybe .20 of an inch Although im not really sure what Ac or Dc+ means or indicates?
Reply:AC, DC+ or DC - is what polarity you are running your rods on. A basic AC stick machine would only let you weld with AC. Amp settings on AC are usually higher than those if you run DC. DC stick machines give you two options DC+ or DC- many times also referred to as electrode positive, or electrode negative.Most DC rods run electrode positive ( DC+), though some run better DC - or can be run either or.An AC/DC machine would allow you to run any of the three.This article might help some.http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us...ty-detail.aspx1/4" material is fairly tough to burn holes in except maybe at the ends/edges, with 1/8" or less rods if your amps are close to correct. 1/8" is a bit trickier to run, but still easily doable. Go below 16 ga and it gets really hard to stick weld material that thin..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:This has nothing to do with the weld and I may be showing my ignorance but what does =P mean.Dan
Reply:=P is just a face hehe  it's like =) or =D but i somehow like the =P its a face with it's tongue sticking out.... haha
Reply:Everything you do with the rod, from travel speed, to rod angle, to arc length, changes the characteristics of the puddle. If you are moving too fast, the puddle will elongate and get narrow and V-shaped at the back. If you are going too slow, the puddle will get large and fat. Ultimately, you will only be a good welder by learning to manipulate the puddle. People talk about welders who use "timing" patterns--that is, they have learned that if they move the rod a certain way, they get good results, but they're not really understanding why what they're doing is working, and they can't really see how what they're doing is affecting the puddle. These people do okay as long as everything lines up the way they've practiced, but as soon as things get a little weird, they fall apart. So since you're going to have to learn to watch the puddle anyway, may as well start now.I feel like I have made good gains in improving my travel speed and keeping it consistent by watching the shape of the puddle. The first time I saw somebody else weld stick in person, I was surprised at how big and round their puddle was. Mine were always thin and narrow, because I was moving the stick too fast, because I was afraid of blowing through. After I strike the arc, I try to build a puddle approximately 2x as wide as the electrode, then start moving. Once I am moving, I am constantly watching the puddle. If it thins out or gets V-shaped and narrow in the back, I know that I may be moving too fast. If it gets fatter than about 2x as wide as the electrode, I'm going too slow.As for consistency in direction, this just comes from practice. You need to have enough ambient light and/or the correct shade of lens that you can see some of the joint around the puddle so that you can see where you're going. If you have a big halogen work light, it may help to shine it on the work piece to give you a little bit more visibility when you're behind the hood. Or, work outside on a bright day, for plenty of ambient light. Use the lightest shade of lens that still provides adequate protection. Look at manufacturer's charts for recommended shades for various welding processes and amperage levels. As you weld, try to follow the joint (or draw a soapstone line on a piece of flat practice stock) and try to keep everything consistent as you go. There's no substitute for practice; after a few thousand rods, you'll start to figure it out!
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWAs far as patching holes, that takes a bit more skill, especially with stick. Usually you need to wait until the material cools some what, and then make a series of small tacks on the edge until the hole closes up.
Reply:Yea i know what you mean, in some parts after i was finished the weld would be skinny in some places and bigger in others. In a few instances the protective coating would peel by itself or require little to no pressure to peel in others i had to hammer at it. Although im not so sure if it's ok to go back? I didn't want to go back because of fear it would mess up my arc or the weld would look crappy i've also seen some videos of people doing letter e's on them? O_O
Reply:e's, C's, Z's, whip and pause, straight stringers, V 's or inverted U's... the pattern really doesn't matter as Josh mentioned. It's all about reading the puddle and learning to manipulate it as needed. Different patterns will allow you to manipulate the puddle differently. What works for one person, may not work well for someone else. I do a lousy whip and pause, and I find running circles or e's hard for me to read the puddle as well as with other methods. Also different motions work better for some joints than others. I do a heavy C motion with fillets, but use almost no motion at all when running an outside corner..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:As promised a few picts of 7018 on 14 ga sheet to 1/8" angle. 125 amps, DC+, straight drag no motion, tight arc. A bit on the fast side since I was trying not to pump too much heat into the material and have it oilcan too badly. Beads look colder and taller in the picts than they do in person. Flaked off the slag with my finger when the beads had cooled for a few minutes.Picts are some what deceptive. The corner of the angle is that line right at the bottom edge of the bead that doesn't show up well.  The angle and lighting makes the sheet look like it's much farther in from the edge than it really is. The heavy line you see father down is a gap between the two pieces of angle that form a C channel. You can see it a bit better in the fit up pict at the end..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Awesome =P Do you prepare the area your going to weld if your doing stick?  Did some more welding today slowed down my speed and made a sort of e motion came out much better and in some cases the slag flaked off by ITSELF!!!!!! Was pretty awesome i ended up trying MiG and my god am i horrible at it heheAlthough I've been meaning to ask what are the characteristics of 7018? Does it penetrate more?I believe the first 2 numbers stand for the tensile strength the 3rd number stands for the positions it can be welded in? The fourth is flux i believe but im not so sure what that is either O_O?
Reply:Hiiiyyyy, I always get the impression when someone says "I just bought a new welder" that they just wanted to melt welding rods on steel and not make any projects......seen this so many times......the little blue flame at the end of the stick creates a compulsive urge to strike an arc and melt the rod.I think the would be welders should realise that welding is only 10 % or less of a project, and like glue to a carpenter merely holds the job together once you've created your ambition.Without hands on tuition you are scratching your back without seeing what is causing the itch."Any advice" is purely water off a Duck's back without the knowledge to understand the process, and it don't come quick with DIY.You can spend 6 months doing what you're doing and still come back and say "What am I doing wrong" etc etc.....the forum is full of the self taught "What did I do wrong" scenarios, but I suppose it fills the threads up with people who like to punch keys for pleasure advising those who like the little blue light flickering away in the darkness....LOL.In my humble opinion, I would advise anyone who wants to get welding with any degree of expertise to find someone who welds for a living or a welding shop that they can pay for a couple of hours of hands on tuition....... and that's as good as it will get.......anything further and you need a dedicated paid for course to go welding with credentials that mean something to an employer if that is where you intend to go.Oh yeah, I forgot, you need a good angle grinder and a bag of abrasives to dig out all the crap you create with DIY expertise. Ian.Last edited by puddytat; 02-18-2013 at 10:39 PM.
Reply:Originally Posted by puddytatHiiiyyyy, I always get the impression when someone says "I just bought a new welder" that they just wanted to melt welding rods on steel and not make any projects......seen this so many times......the little blue flame at the end of the stick creates a compulsive urge to strike an arc and melt the rod.I think the would be welders should realise that welding is only 10 % or less of a project, and like glue to a carpenter merely holds the job together once you've created your ambition.Without hands on tuition you are scratching your back without seeing what is causing the itch."Any advice" is purely water off a Duck's back without the knowledge to understand the process, and it don't come quick with DIY.You can spend 6 months doing what you're doing and still come back and say "What am I doing wrong" etc etc.....the forum is full of the self taught "What did I do wrong" scenarios, but I suppose it fills the threads up with people who like to punch keys for pleasure advising those who like the little blue light flickering away in the darkness....LOL.In my humble opinion, I would advise anyone who wants to get welding with any degree of expertise to find someone who welds for a living or a welding shop that they can pay for a couple of hours of hands on tuition....... and that's as good as it will get.......anything further and you need a dedicated paid for course to go welding with credentials that mean something to an employer if that is where you intend to go. Ian.
Reply:Usually I'll grind down the area I'll weld 1st to remove mill scale and rust. Good prep makes for good welds. Friday I was rushed for time and wanted to get this all tacked up while the weather was nice and I had a bit of spare time. Since the steel was clean and new, I just ran the beads. I'll admit I was lazy and didn't want to waste the 45 minutes and fuel it would have taken to drive home to grab the grinders since they were in the work truck rather than up at the shop.I believe 7018 is classed as a medium penetrating rod. You got the numbers right. 70 would be tensile strength, the 1 would mean all position, and the 8 tells you it's a low hydrogen rod. Low hydrogen helps with higher tensile steels to help prevent cracking. It's also a very ductile weld material and takes shock loads better than some other rods. CEP did a decent "test" where he showed how many blows it took to fail different types or rods.These were just some "scrap" rod I had lying around left over from another project.  They may have come home from the tech school when I took my Maxstar 200 in the one night and just sat out in the open shop since then. I didn't have time to run back to the house and grab anything else. Usually I'd use 7014  for something like this, since it doesn't have the storage issues 7018 can have due to moisture. I save 7018 for "critical" projects and usually just buy new fresh rods when I need them. What ever is left over I'll save for practice rods on misc projects like this. These rods didn't run as well as I would  have liked. Restarts were hard and the flux kept flaking off at the end unevenly as I ran them, so I could tell they were a bit damp. Still for a quick mock up for the air rifle target backstop they will work just fine. Probably could have upped the amps 5-10 more and had them weld better, or increased my arc length a tad. I really didn't want to put any more heat into the sheet than I already was though. As mentioned earlier I'd have opted for 3/32" rods if I'd had any available so I could have dropped my amps more..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWAs far as patching holes, that takes a bit more skill, especially with stick. Usually you need to wait until the material cools some what, and then make a series of small tacks on the edge until the hole closes up.
Reply:Originally Posted by aav1996=P is just a face hehe  it's like =) or =D but i somehow like the =P its a face with it's tongue sticking out.... haha
Reply:Originally Posted by Scott Youngor you can STIG it.  I have had over the years had to take another electrode and knock all the flux off and work it into the puddle like TIG to fill a hole or bad fit up.  There as one guy that was blind in one eye and couldn't see out of the other one.  He was the absolutely worst fitter.  I hated coming behind him and trying to finish up what he started.  I can't for the life of me figure out how he ever kept his job, but I figured it was job security for me.
Reply:Originally Posted by aav1996So what your saying is when you patch you can knock out all the flux of the electrode and just leave the wire core? Does that make it easier?
Reply:There are any number of "tricks" to filling holes. As mentioned you could use a piece of filler wire or cut a small scrap to stuff in there and "fill" the hole and weld over it in some applications.By STIG, I believe Scott was referring to using a bare piece of stick rod as "tig" filler and using the stick arc like you would a tig torch. I've seen it done, but it takes a fair amount of eye hand coordination to pull it off as you have to dip the filler like tig while at the same time constantly adjusting the stick to maintain a constant arc length, travel speed and rod angle..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWThere are any number of "tricks" to filling holes. As mentioned you could use a piece of filler wire or cut a small scrap to stuff in there and "fill" the hole and weld over it in some applications.By STIG, I believe Scott was referring to using a bare piece of stick rod as "tig" filler and using the stick arc like you would a tig torch. I've seen it done, but it takes a fair amount of eye hand coordination to pull it off as you have to dip the filler like tig while at the same time constantly adjusting the stick to maintain a constant arc length, travel speed and rod angle.