Please critique my welds

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I'm getting ready to start welding things on the bucket of the tractor, but I haven't really welded anything in a couple years.  I'm going to weld a length of 3/16" angle on the back of the bucket lip, then weld hooks and clevis mounts to that.Before I screw up my bucket I figured it would be smart to do some practice runs.I got some scrap pieces of 3/16 to keep everything the same and a couple extra hooks for a practice run.  I'm running a Hobart HH187 with solid .35 wire and argon/co2 mix.According to the chart (it's a tap machine so voltage/speed are machine settings), for 3/16 with AR/CO2 and .35 wire, the wire speed should be set at 50 and the voltage at 6 (out of 7).  I kinda figured out the wire speed to the tap setting using simple math.  The machine has settings from 10 to 100 for wire speed.  The minimum speed on the unit is 40 IPM and max is 700 IPM, so hopefully my math was correct.WS102030405060708090100IPM40114187260334407480553627700Apparently the voltage is a sliding scale because it's effected by the wire speed.  But, I calculated this out.  The machine has settings from 1 to 7.Setting1234567Voltage 13192123252730Based on the settings it looks like the initial setup is 27 volts and 334 IPM.  I ran a bead at that setting and I thought it was kind of thin.  I upped the WS to 60 (407 IPM) and left the voltage on setting 6.  That bead seemed to run pretty good.  I figured I'd jack up the WS to 70 (480 IPM) and see what happened.  The bead ran OK but it seemed to stick up more in the center compared to the WS of 60.  The WS setting of 60 sounded the best too.  It wasn't popping, sputtering or crackling, it was more of a steady sizzle/hum.Here's what the three test beads look like:I ran some more beads at the 60 and 70 settings, leaving the voltage on 6.  Sorry, camera took some crappy pictures.....Here's a lap at 60.I ran a bunch more practice beads to get back in the swing of things.Eventually I took a shot at welding one of the hooks to a flat piece of 3/16 scrap.Finally I took one of the hooks that are going on the bucket. This one is going on the back of the bucket just above the heel so I can lift with the bucket back if need be.   The hook was welded to a 1/4" plate that I'll weld on the bucket.Am I close enough for government work?  Any comments, suggestions, advice or criticism is welcome and requested!I found that I had to concentrate on not moving too fast.  I also found out that I need some better cheater glasses under my helmet.  The ones I have work good for the computer but not so good for welding, not strong enough.  I did try out my new Hobart AD hood today and I'm very happy with it.  I replaced a $50 Northern Tool AD helmet that I've had kicking around for 7 or 8 years.
Reply:You definitely were going too fast in some of the 1st picts. With such small "test" pieces, it's hard to really get a good "flow" for many guys.  Settings don't look bad, but you aren't washing the puddle down onto the lower piece in many of the picts. Also your consistency needs some work.On your lap joints, the lower edge all look rolled for the most part. I'd say you were going to far up on the upper plate, and needed to concentrate more on the lower one to wash the puddle out more. Again consistency isn't there. It's hard to say not seeing you weld, but I'd be tempted to guess that your stickout could be shorter. It would not surprise me if some of what I'm seeing is due to the fact you are changing the distance between the gun and the work as you go along in many of these welds.Of the bunch, the last hook looks the best on the side, but the front where you run around the hook looks "cold" and humped. My guess is you increased your stickout as you tried to wrap the corner, thus decreased  the amps when you did that.Hook on flat plate, 3rd from the end has the smallest beads of the bunch. You have a bit of undercut at the right. Here you could have used a bit more material, but quite a few of your other beads look very large. What ever you did different with this one "helped" even if the bead is a bit low. A better pict would let me know more about that one. It's too blurry to give any good help.1st hook shown doesn't look too bad except for that big area in the center where it looks like you didn't wash the lower portion down on the plate far enough.The part on the far right looks the best in that bead..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Thanks.  I found that trying to weld on small pieces of scrap is a pain!  I was trying different push techniques.  I did a couple beads where I would go forward about a 1/4 inch or so then back about 1/8 of an inch then forward again.One of my biggest problems was not seeing the joint.  I'm hoping that a better pair of glasses that let me focus at the distance that I weld at will help.I tried to keep my stickout at around 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch.  When I welded the hooks I actually got too close and welded a couple of tips shut.  I know that I need to concentrate on being consistent in my hand movement speed.  I know that's a big part of the wandering weld syndrome. I appreciate your input!
Reply:1/4 to 3/8" is about right. Your back and forth motion might account for the larger beads. Not a motion I typically use, but one the instructor does show some students. I prefer a C shape with fillet joints myself. That lets me watch the top, then the bottom so I can see how the toes are wetting in. You need to find what method works for you.Being able to see well is a huge part of this. I had to go to the eye doc and get a prescription set up for welding and work. My  regular glasses were too strong and I found mys elf either not seeing well, or looking over my glasses all the time. The new hood will probably help some..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Looks good enough to me for a tractor weld. I'm thinking you are gonna have a hard time breaking that off.
Reply:Originally Posted by Teikas DadI'm going to weld a length of 3/16" angle on the back of the bucket lip, then weld hooks and clevis mounts to that.
Reply:Originally Posted by WelderBillWhat kind of tractor do you have ? and is the top of the bucket (lip) level ?Can you post a picture of you bucket ? Before you do this..
Reply:It's a Kubota B3200 with a 60" bucket.  The steel on the bucket lip is 3/16" thick but the back side kind of hangs out in midair, that's why I'm looking to reinforce it.  The loader is only rated for 800 to 1000 lbs so I won't be lifting anything major.The top edge of the bucket lip is only 2" deep so any chain hooks or shackle mounts are going to be a tight fit from front to back.  One of the photos below show the two different shackle mounts that I have.  I'm going to mount the smaller one on the lip.In the Sketch Up graphic, disregard the plug welds, I'm not going to do those based on what everyone has suggested.This photo was taken with a hunk of 2X2 that I had laying around just for the concept. Attached Images
Reply:What is that bolted to the cutting edge.  Might be handy for digging up bushes.  Do you have a picture of that.  Sorry for the Hijack.Dan
Reply:It's a tooth bar..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Piranha tooth bar, sucker is sharp on the edges.....I figure if I get the tractor up to about 20mph and float the bucket I can mow my lawn with it! Got it here:http://www.bxpanded.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=30
Reply:[QUOTE=Teikas Dad;2322971]Piranha tooth bar, sucker is sharp on the edges.....I figure if I get the tractor up to about 20mph and float the bucket I can mow my lawn with it! Thanks for the photo and the link.  I bet that would work great on bushes in soft ground.  I will have to look around for one that will fit a Green tractor with a 5' bucket.Dan
Reply:Originally Posted by Teikas DadIt's a Kubota B3200 with a 60" bucket.  The steel on the bucket lip is 3/16" thick but the back side kind of hangs out in midair, that's why I'm looking to reinforce it.
Reply:[quote=DanD78;2323971] Originally Posted by Teikas DadPiranha tooth bar, sucker is sharp on the edges.....I figure if I get the tractor up to about 20mph and float the bucket I can mow my lawn with it! Thanks for the photo and the link.  I bet that would work great on bushes in soft ground.  I will have to look around for one that will fit a Green tractor with a 5' bucket.Dan