How do you make a....................

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Half moon cut on a piece of steel pipe like this >>>>>>>>>>>>>  )   Thanks!
Reply:Bandsaw...Cut a piece off however wide you need..Lay it down flat.. and then slice it where you need it..Easy!...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:I'm a little confused by what you are asking for, but I'll take a stab at it and guess that you are trying make templates to cope pipe. To save a bunch of long winded explanations, I'll give you a quickie shortcut that will serve your purposes:http://www.harderwoods.com/pipetemplate.phpFollow this link to the HarderWoods site. Fill out the pipe information on the left column, and it will generate templates for you. Print them out onto paper, and transfer them to cork or paper gasket material, cut them out and you are ready to go. I myself, have used this software to make templates for some oddball stuff, and then I transferred them over to a flexible, thin, magnetic material that I have which holds it to the pipe quite nicely.The only information you will need is pipe O.D. and wall thickness, and if you have it closeby, just use a tape measure, or I can supply you a link to pipe schedule charts. Mathey Dearman used to have a good one.I have built several grill guards, winch guards and head ache racks for Class 8 semis using coped pipe, so I will offer you a word of wisdom: Measure your pipes VERY carefully.....When you transfer over your measurement to the pipe to be cut - lets say (for example) that 15" is what you need - remember that the 15" is from the BOTTOM of one coped joint, to the BOTTOM of the other coped joint. DON'T FORGET to add the 15/16" (for example) to accomodate the depth of the cope for each end when you lay out your cut lines. After you cut the pipe, then use your templates to chalk out the copes, and the bottom to bottom measurement should be 15".Hope this helps.Edit:  This is a duplicate post.  I have already submitted this information on the Miller site to your question over there.Last edited by Black Wolf; 02-02-2008 at 08:45 PM.Reason: Change URL link.  Works fine now.Later,Jason
Reply:Jason....link no workie...
Reply:Thanks Mike, I checked it twice.  I'll adjust it in the previous post.Later,Jason
Reply:Another way to cope a pipe or tube is with a chopsaw or compound mitre saw.The following was taken from Pirate4x4 and it's wat I use.The chop saw method,if understood , is a science. With known tube size and joint angle, tube can be notched with great accuracy. The notch is acheved by cutting two opposing angles on one end of a peice of tube, to form a point. The cross-section of this cut will be an elipitical cut due to the shape of the tube. Changes in boath of the two angled cuts must be made for the intersection angle and the size of the two tubes being joined. The only real limitation is the max angle of the chop saw.You start with what I call the base angle. This is the angle of boath cuts if the joint was 90*. For an example, I am fitting Two tubes together that are boath 1.75", at an 90* joint. The base angle, or the angle of boath cuts is 28*. These two cuts must meet at a point, and the point must allso be centered on the tube.What if I want an 15* joint with my 1.75" tube???? You must start with your base angle, witch was 28* for 1.75"(remember above), and subtract 15* from one cut, and add 15* to the other cut to form a perfect notch. So now I must make a 13* cut and an 43* cut , with the point centered on the tube. Perfect coped joint, with no grinding.Remember your base angle will change with the tube being cut and the tube that you are fitting to.Here are a few examples of base angles...2.0" to 2.0" tube, base angle of 30*1.75" to 1.75" tube, base angle of 28*1.5" to 1.5" tube, base angle of 26*1.25" to 1.25" tube, base angle of 22.5*1" to 1" tube, Base angle of 20*Now to fit diffrent size tubes together 1.75" to 2" tube, base angle of 25*1.75" to 1.25" tube, base angle of 45*1.25" to 1.75 tube, base angle of 20*1" to 2" tube, base angle of 12*I hope that helpsMy Photos on Flickr
Reply:I just use a Harbor Freight tube notcher. I use it mostly on schedule 40 pipe, works very well.http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=42324Miller DVI2Lincoln Precision Tig 225Thermodynamics Cutmaster 38Everything else needed.
Reply:or as was said on the other site you posted this question on... have the laser cutters make it that way!!!    Sorry, had to!  I don't have a clue what you want it for, if it is for notching tube, then that has already been covered.  Otherwise   ?????
Reply:Use a torch, don't be a skeered. I could explane in how to make a wrap-a-round, but it is easier to buy one.Disclaimer; "I am just an a$$hole welder, don't take it personally ."
Reply:Dam I'm getting senile, totally forgot about a wrap..anyhow enough rambling here's a link to a great notch wrap program and it's freehttp://www.metalgeek.com/static/cope.pcgiMy Photos on Flickr