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I'm built a prop that uses 3/8" diamond plate steel as a base. Once the prop is bolted together, the oil can effect flattens out so it really isn't an issue.I've never had much luck using a gas torch/soaked rag technique to remove the oil can from thinner materials so I'm a little hesitant to try on heavy gauge metals.Like I said, I was just curious.
Reply:Farrier-1Flame straightening [automotive] sheet metal is a lost art. Virtually everyone that could do it with the sweep of a torch is dead. Regardless of gauge all flat surfaces are more trying-to-true than dimensional sections.Given adequate torch capacity, in practice, the heavier the material, the more control you actually have. It is also more forgiving for correction if you over-shoot.Lincoln's The Procedure Handbook of Arc Welding has a good conceptual explanation of the technique.Opus
Reply:Opus- Is there one specific edition of the book you mentioned?
Reply:This is a very good book on heat shrinking. Without seeing a pictures it's hard to say. Generally I'll use a small welding tip, and heat a small circle in the high spots, and use a spray bottle of water to cool. Attached ImagesDont pay any attention to meIm just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:What is the oil can effect? Can someone post a picture of it?
Reply:It is a "dent" popping in and out easily. Might be a small area, might be large. Try Youtube.
Reply:Originally Posted by CEPThis is a very good book on heat shrinking. Without seeing a pictures it's hard to say. Generally I'll use a small welding tip, and heat a small circle in the high spots, and use a spray bottle of water to cool.
Reply:Farrier-1My copy is a twelfth edition - 1973 - page 3.1-16.I believe this info is carried through all subsequenteditions. Its focus is on heavy structural sections. Any Linc - Procedure Handbook . . . and the Liptonbook are top choices in an applied welding library.Opus
Reply:This picture was scanned out of the Procedure Handbook. Attached ImagesDont pay any attention to meIm just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:CEP- I can't even image- that pic is unreal.
Reply:The guy who taught me how to heat shrink, helped the guy who did the beams on the Seattle Space Needle. Dont pay any attention to meIm just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:I have used shrinks quite frequently in car sheet metal as well. I like to use blue shrinks (as opposed to heating it up red) and just wipe over it with a wet cloth. This method will allow you to "sneak up on it" and is less prone to over shrinking.250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
Reply:Seattle Space Needle built for the 1962 exposition more than 50 years ago and now you're among the very few to have this knowledge. Seeing the way things are going 50 years from now people may not know how to use a hammer.
Reply:Farrier-1 The beam photo scan is from page 3.1-17. CEP thanks for the steel history. The Space Needle is an iconic exo-steel structure known the world over. I rode the Mono-Rail to the Fair, and in a childs eye, dined at the edge of Space in '62.It markedly influenced my draw to steel.Opus |
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