Air Compressor Water Separator

admin

I see different kinds of filters/water separators for delivering dry air. A lot of the newer ones are using desiccant to absorb moisture from the air. I have the type with the plain filter and a water collecting bowl that has a drain at the bottom. I'm wondering if there would be any benefit to filling the bowl with desiccant or if the bowl and drain are sufficient. I have the filter connected to an air line about 30 feet from the compressor. Just got a pressure pot sand blaster and want to make sure I have the driest air possible. Also going to be doing some spray painting.What say ye?GraysOrnamentalIron.com
Reply:That sand blaster throws a monkey wrench into the equation due to its heavy demands on shop air. I'd skip the desiccant in your bowl on the present filter as it wasn't designed for that sort of thing. If you do decide to get a desiccant filter, follow it up with a particulate filter to remove tiny particles of the desiccant that will migrate out of the desiccant filter or your paint work might be a bit spotty. I'd think seriously about a Motor Guard filter just prior to your paint rig. Probably not a good pairing for that sand blaster though as it will restrict the flow...not a big deal for most applications, but more so for a sand blaster.Lincoln PrecisionTig 275Miller 251Miller DialArc 250Bridgeport millHossfeld bender & diesLogan shaperJet 14 X 40 latheSouth Bend 9" 'C'Hypertherm 900Ellis 3000 band saw21"Royersford ExcelsiorTwo shops, still too many tools.
Reply:make a big pipe loop with a drip leg and drain valve, along with separators after it, out of the compressor so the moister has a chance to condense and collect in the drip leg..Of all the things I lost I miss my mind the most...I know just enough about everything to be dangerous......You cant cure stupid..only kill it...
Reply:What I use, but it is/was in dry WY...pipe loop, never hooked up that desiccant dryer. Drain valve at the bottom of all three legs plus an electrically timed "spitter" on the base of the tank.Last edited by WyoRoy; 01-08-2015 at 01:18 PM.Lincoln PrecisionTig 275Miller 251Miller DialArc 250Bridgeport millHossfeld bender & diesLogan shaperJet 14 X 40 latheSouth Bend 9" 'C'Hypertherm 900Ellis 3000 band saw21"Royersford ExcelsiorTwo shops, still too many tools.
Reply:What roadkillbobb and WyoRoy are pointing out is that in order to remove moisture from the air you first have to cool it.  Once it is cool, a water trap and drain valve will allow you to remove it from the line/trap.I used a 3/4" Rapidair system.  I ran 60' of line from my compressor to a T with a trap and valve at the bottom. The other 'out' from the T goes into a regulator and water separator.  I have used this setup to sandblast and paint and never had a moisture issue.It is cheap and fool proof (no expensive equipment to break down and no consumables to replace).GravelThe difference between theory and practice is that in theory there is no difference.
Reply:Gravel says things so much better than I. The only thing I'll add is the same warning about the sand blaster throwing a wrench into the equation. If the sand blaster is on a 60' run of 3/4" pipe it may have some pressure issues...and maybe not, depends upon the sand blaster. Planning to build a large enclosed blaster as soon as my current shop gets set up and will keep it as near to the air compressor and with as large an infeed air line as I can manage to draw directly out of the compressor without necking the fittings down. I'm sure there will be moisture problems, but I have an momentary air powered shaker to bust the clumps out of the hopper. Now with that said...the ambient air here is usually dryer than in a lot of the rest of the country. If I were in Gravel's area, I'd go his same route...and will for the rest of the air system other than the blasting cabinet.Lincoln PrecisionTig 275Miller 251Miller DialArc 250Bridgeport millHossfeld bender & diesLogan shaperJet 14 X 40 latheSouth Bend 9" 'C'Hypertherm 900Ellis 3000 band saw21"Royersford ExcelsiorTwo shops, still too many tools.
Reply:if your worried about pressure drop , just run 1inch pipe, it not that much more money and you will get the volume...Of all the things I lost I miss my mind the most...I know just enough about everything to be dangerous......You cant cure stupid..only kill it...
Reply:Originally Posted by roadkillbobbmake a big pipe loop with a drip leg and drain valve, along with separators after it, out of the compressor so the moister has a chance to condense and collect in the drip leg..
Reply:Originally Posted by Mark SHow big a pipe loop are you suggesting?
Reply:Wow, that is a big loop. I am about to pipe my small workshop and that is much larger than I was thinking. Actually, I have room to go about 2-3 feet tall max. Will that make a real difference?
Reply:Originally Posted by Mark SWow, that is a big loop. I am about to pipe my small workshop and that is much larger than I was thinking. Actually, I have room to go about 2-3 feet tall max. Will that make a real difference?
Reply:Run pipe to the ceiling then all the way around your garage to where you want the air outlet (s). I have 60' of 3/4" going into a 100' rubber 3/8" hose on a reel and don't have a problem with pressure or volume. I can post some pictures if you like.GravelThe difference between theory and practice is that in theory there is no difference.
Reply:Down and dirty redneck dryer.Filled with desiccant.It's the first filter before shop outlets and plasma cutter. Been running a Motor Guard filter ahead of the plasma cutter for almost a year and the filter is still dry.This is the one on my home compressor. The one in my shop is wall mounted.
Reply:hi guys not sure if you're interested but I made a real effective air dryer using a salvaged air conditioner condenser out of an old truck I had laying around.  fairly simple in between the pump in the tank I use the loop of copper going to the top of the condenser in the bottom of the condenser I tee'd a drop tube with a bleed off and the other outlet of the T goes to the tank. I didn't install a fan behind the condenser like I had originally planned since after it work so well it doesn't need one I was also going to install an automatic breeder but there's no need as I take a second now and then to drIn it manually.  The extra bonus that I did not C coming was that everything runs cooler the motor the pump and the compressed air itself cool down in the condenser so no water gets to the actual air storage tank. Anyway thats my little speel. Hope u find it usefull.
Reply:Originally Posted by jyexleyhi guys not sure if you're interested but I made a real effective air dryer using a salvaged air conditioner condenser out of an old truck I had laying around.  fairly simple in between the pump in the tank I use the loop of copper going to the top of the condenser in the bottom of the condenser I tee'd a drop tube with a bleed off and the other outlet of the T goes to the tank. I didn't install a fan behind the condenser like I had originally planned since after it work so well it doesn't need one I was also going to install an automatic breeder but there's no need as I take a second now and then to drIn it manually.  The extra bonus that I did not C coming was that everything runs cooler the motor the pump and the compressed air itself cool down in the condenser so no water gets to the actual air storage tank. Anyway thats my little speel. Hope u find it usefull.
Reply:I built this one on my last air system and it removed most moisture. Then it fed my air system made of 3/4/" L copper pipe and then a motoguard filter. The air was bone dry at that point. Sorry the pic is from a thread on here a few years back and the system is long gone. That is a drip loop at the bottom with a common drain tying the bottom of each saddle in, their is a ball valve on each drain leg prior to the common drain. Attached ImagesLast edited by JackLegg; 01-09-2015 at 12:13 PM.
Reply:Originally Posted by jyexleyhi guys not sure if you're interested but I made a real effective air dryer using a salvaged air conditioner condenser out of an old truck I had laying around.  fairly simple in between the pump in the tank I use the loop of copper going to the top of the condenser in the bottom of the condenser I tee'd a drop tube with a bleed off and the other outlet of the T goes to the tank. I didn't install a fan behind the condenser like I had originally planned since after it work so well it doesn't need one I was also going to install an automatic breeder but there's no need as I take a second now and then to drIn it manually.  The extra bonus that I did not C coming was that everything runs cooler the motor the pump and the compressed air itself cool down in the condenser so no water gets to the actual air storage tank. Anyway thats my little speel. Hope u find it usefull.
Reply:Hey bob. I guess its 3/8" going thru condenser. I used one off my old cabover freightliner. I used 1/2" soft copper for plumbing. My compresser is rated @ 25cfm. No noticeable difference in recapture time after I added the dryer. Mainly need it for air tools my big impact is a hog and my setup keeps up good. Hope I answered yuor questions.  Later gator