Understanding Stick Electrodes (Videos)

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Good Afternoon Everyone!!These videos talk about the different types of Stick Electrodes, what they're commonly used for, what the best and worst traits of them are, and even what those numbers mean. This is my newest mini-series and I just thought I'd stop in and share it... Alright, lets get started... Here's part one, it covers 6010 & 6011, plus electrode designations and a few other tidbits:Part Two, welding with 6013 & 7014:Part Three, all about 7018:Annnnnd part Four, discussing... 7024:Well I guess that about sums it up. One of my first ever how-to's was the original "Understanding Stick Electrodes", but I wanted to remake it. Originally I was going to make this all one video, but split it so it wasnt so long... Anyway, I hope you guys like it. It was really fun to make, oh, and a big Thanks to KillDozer for sending those 7024's out lol. Enjoy it, and happy welding everyone [Account Abandoned 8/8/16 Please Do Not Attempt Contact Or Expect A Reply]. See you on YouTube! -ChuckE2009
Reply:Your welcome Lanse I did buy 50 lbs of 7024 in 1/8 and 50 lbs in 3/16 it is old school but still done for short run thick fills where it would take more time to break out the 12RC than do it with the 7024If the temperature of the weld is right the slag will curl up by itselfIt is called mud rod for a reasonAnd thanks for the mentionBacked my CATMA over your CARMA oops clusmy me  What would SATAN do ?? Miller Trailblazer 302 AirPakMiller Digital Elite  Optrel Welding HatArcair K4000Suitcase 12RC / 12 VSHypertherm PM-45Rage 3 sawRusty old Truck
Reply:7024 wasn't that hard for me to find actually, my local hardware store ordered a 5lbs box for me. But I have never actually seen any on the shelves.Also, would you mind making a video on how ****ty 7018AC is. People deserve to know.Last edited by Vydunas; 05-22-2013 at 05:56 PM.
Reply:Originally Posted by Vydunas7024 wasn't that hard for me to find actually, my local hardware store ordered a 5lbs box for me. But I have never actually seen any on the shelves.Also, would you mind making a video on how ****ty 7018AC is. People deserve to know.
Reply:I suppose I could have gotten a bad batch, I'm fine with normal 7018 but 7018AC worked like **** for me.
Reply:Hey great vids Lanse!
Reply:Lanse, great video as usual!  Thank you!!!!!!!!!!!!   As for AC..... I like it!   (Yes, I have DC capability too).   I'm one that doesn't mind AC stick welding.  Then again, I'm not doing it professionally, nor am I welding bridges.  I have some Excalibur 7018-1's and big-box Linconln 7018AC's.   Yeah, the Excaliburs are nice and smooth (DC+), but I've been using the 7018AC's for a while on small projects, (AC) and I actually like them too.  They're not that bad of an electrode for the hobbiest or occasional professional too.Lincoln Power Mig 216Lincoln AC/DC-225/125Miller  625 X-Treme PlasmaMiller 211 Forney 95FI-A 301HF 91110Victor Journeyman O/PMilwaukee DaytonMakita  Baileigh NRA Life Member
Reply:Originally Posted by VydunasI suppose I could have gotten a bad batch, I'm fine with normal 7018 but 7018AC worked like **** for me.
Reply:Originally Posted by Drf255Vydunas, I'm with you. Cannot see the puddle for $hit.  Just a ton of slag-but this is when I used it on DC.
Reply:It's supposed  to be both AC and DC.  That's why I stated that it may run better on AC and other machines than in my experience with it.  Maybe it has to do with the voltage.  It just sucked for me.TA Arcmaster 300CM3XMT 304S22P12 suitcase feederX-Treme 12VSOptima pulserTA161SMaxstar 150STLHypertherm PM45OP setupStihl 020AVP, 039, 066 Magnum
Reply:AC is all about amperage.  You need to run at higher amps to run it successfully.  1/8 will run well at 135amps, 5/32 will run well at 175amps (careful attention must paid to travel speed....you need to run a bit faster to prevent porosity at this amperage)The puddle is harder to distinguish from the arc because the arc is very harsh.  I've found that when welding in less than full sunlight it helps to turn your shade up to #11.  You can use #10 in full sunlight.If you're having trouble with the slag intruding on your puddle you need to run with a steeper rod angle to force the slag to the back of the puddle.  Noticeably steeper than you'd run a DC rod.  This will change the ripple pattern on the finished bead, it's one of the ways to distinguish an AC weld from the equivalent DC weld.And it goes without saying, DON'T LOOK AT THE SLAG to determine if the weld is going ok.  Focus on the puddle.  Any swirling trash in the puddle, mentioned earlier in the thread, indicates your rod angle isn't steep enough...........slag inclusions.As far as OCV goes.......Most machines are pretty similar.  AC rod is designed to run well on machines with lower OCV, but will run fine on higher OCV.  I believe that OCV mainly affects starting the arc, not how it runs once the arc is established (don't quote me on this)http://www.lincolnelectric.com/asset...382-5/e696.pdfhttp://www.lincolnelectric.com/asset...382-5/e696.pdfI had only run AC until I got my AC/DC buzzbox, and the Ranger.  For me the switch had the opposite results.  I found myself turning up the amps in DC mode because I felt the arc was too softOne of the most common errors I see is people pointing the rod too high against the vertical plate.  It happens with both polarities.  Instead of depending on gravity to bring the metal down as you want it, it works better to gently weave between the upper and lower toes while maintaining the proper 45 degree angle facing into the root.  The weave is approximately 3/4 the width of the bead, just enough to wet your toes adequately and provide adequate penetration in these areas.This even applies to horizontal welds to some extent.  While you will probably point the rod higher into the joint, you still need to come down to tie the toe into the lower piece of plate.  It's a quicker movement, but accomplishes the same thing.....puts some arc into the toe.Think of it...........You're pointing the force of the arc against ONLY ONE area of the weld, the upper end.  The metal just drizzles down onto the lower plate.  There isn't enough heat being applied to the lower end of the fillet.  You want heat placed evenly throughout the entire weld if possible.That's my take on it anyhowLast edited by farmersamm; 05-24-2013 at 10:03 AM."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Originally Posted by Drf255During complaining about this rod in the past, certain people have chimed in saying its designed to run on a higher OCV than the normal DC rod.  That may be changing the perception people have of it on AC output vs DC on different machines than what I've used.