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Greetings!I have been a long time reader of this forum however this is my first post. I have taken on a restoration of an Idealarc 250 AC/DC...Type K1053, Serial Number 149363. It has no code number but through a little research I've been told it is a 1977 model. I have a ton of questions but I'll start simple The info plate on the front only has one input voltage (575)...one of my questions is can this be changed to 230V?The machine looked as if it had seen a few miles over the years but I have been chipping away at the cleaning, painting and so on over the past couple of months. The problem I face now is when I initially took it apart, the wiring for the on/off switch and fan motor had been rigged...and then re-rigged (why I'm not sure but it was way more complicated than it needed to be). Now I'm trying to get it back to "stock" with cut wires that have no markings or indications as to where they belong. If you take a look at the attached picture, there are three wires on the left, two of which are soldered to some 12ga wire and one simply doubles back toward the transformer (I'm assuming these are the H1,H2 and H3 on the wiring diagram). According to the barely legible info on the inside of the tin, for a high voltage machine, H1 and H3 are connected to the switch while H2 is insulated...Could this "folded" wire be the reason there is only one input voltage on the info plate? There is a lighter gauge black wire and finally on the right side of the pic there is a white wire. If anyone has some input or direction for me it would be greatly appreciated! It is probably worth mentioning that I am not a welder or an electrician...just a guy who likes to learn and "tinker." I can also post pics of the whole restoration project if anyone is interested.Thanks again!
Reply:Maybe I should have put this in the "Electrical" section
Reply:I have a miller that ran on 530 volt single phase. It was never meant to have a lower voltage hook up. when I got it I was going to just junk it out for the copper. Then I noticed on the schematic that the fan which was 240 volts ran off of one leg from the center of the primary. Aha! said I and started tracing wires from the fan to the primary winding. I new I had to use the whole winding because if I tried to just use half it would only do half the work. So when I found the center tap on the primary it looked just like those two varnished wires to the left of your picture. I disconnected those two wires from the fan and from each other carefully. then I ran a resistance test on them from the outside of the winding( where the main lead from the switch went.) to the center tap that I had uncovered. The resistance was the same on both sides. Now I am not to bright on transformers so I just hooked them up to the power in in series . When I turned the power one the transformer made a heck of a grinding noise and the 240 circuit clicked off. So I changed the two wires that went to the center tap to run the two Primary coils in parallel. It works perfect, and I use it almost every day. Mac
Reply:Thanks for the input ToolMaker. I'm hoping a few more times across the wiring diagram with my finger and I'll have an "Aha!" moment like the one you described...I'll plan to do some resistance testing in the morning. When I picked up the welder the front switch had been bypassed, the wires cut and spliced to an alternate switch box on the back...along with a step-down transformer to a 115V plug...a total mess and a lot of the "new" wiring was cracked and chaffed to the bare copper. How it never burned is a mystery to me.
Reply:Here is the manual for the welder:http://www.lincolnelectric.com/asset...oln3/im206.pdfYou want to connect H1 and H2 to the switch. Is there a diagram inside the machine?
Reply:Yes there is (kind of) a diagram inside...it was pretty beat up but is the same as what is in that PDF manual. My concern is that the wires are no longer labelled (H1,H2,H3) so I'm not sure how to tell which one is which. |
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发表于 2021-8-31 22:46:21