Tractor Casting Repair

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Well I have built some stuff and repaired some stuff but never posted a repair from start to finish. I did build an aluminum  box and posted it with Davids thread and displayed some trailers I built, but this is different. I am not sure how to proceed here. Obviously someone thought this little Farmall Super C was part dozer. Broke the casting off in the threads. I am about to mount a small front loader for potential snow removal and use it to transport my firewood, so if someone has an accepted option to weld and restore these to castings I am all ears.  Thanks Attached ImagesGeezerPower Mig 255C185 TIGBlue 175 MIGRanger 8 Kohler 20HP1974 5K Lincoln/Wisconsin Powered (Cherry)Victor/Harris O/AK 487 Spool Gun
Reply:Are those two pics the same damage or different sides/holes?  I'm assuming those are the square bosses that stick off the belled part of the transmission case.  Looks like cast iron.  Lots of threads on here about cast iron welding.  Would probably be a big casting to pre-heat the whole thing.  Can you post a slightly more zoomed out picture so we can where it is on the tractor?  The second picture makes the hole look really close to the corner of the boss... Attached ImagesLast edited by dbotos; 09-20-2013 at 08:26 PM.
Reply:Absolutely, in the amGeezerPower Mig 255C185 TIGBlue 175 MIGRanger 8 Kohler 20HP1974 5K Lincoln/Wisconsin Powered (Cherry)Victor/Harris O/AK 487 Spool Gun
Reply:Geezer, Would it be possible to just move the holes forward as you have a machined flat surface there? It would be stronger since it wouldn't be close to the edge. Maybe you could move the holes on the implement as well.
Reply:Why is the obvious so hidden sometimes. Never thought of it but certainly worthy suggestion. I guess sense I am painting and cleaning this old machine I was focused on fixing the holes. I will take some other pics like dbotos suggested and see where that goes. ThanksGeezerPower Mig 255C185 TIGBlue 175 MIGRanger 8 Kohler 20HP1974 5K Lincoln/Wisconsin Powered (Cherry)Victor/Harris O/AK 487 Spool Gun
Reply:Originally Posted by dbotosAre those two pics the same damage or different sides/holes?  I'm assuming those are the square bosses that stick off the belled part of the transmission case.  Looks like cast iron.  Lots of threads on here about cast iron welding.  Would probably be a big casting to pre-heat the whole thing.  Can you post a slightly more zoomed out picture so we can where it is on the tractor?  The second picture makes the hole look really close to the corner of the boss...
Reply:Geezer:The first thing I would suggest is to identify what metal the castings are made from as some parts are cast STEEL rather than cast IRON.  It's easy enough to drill a small spot  on the part and if the chip comes out as shiney chips it is steel and if the swarf is a grey powder then it is iron.  You can do the grinder spark test as well, but I have better luck doing the drill test as my old eyes ain't what they once were and lighting conditions can make the color shift hard to see.If it turns out to be cast steel, then you have a wider selection of repair methods and rods available to you.  If it is cast iron, you can either braze or use nickel rod, but as you mention, you run the possibility of chasing cracks.  Search for posts by a member here that goes by the name of "castweld".  He is a master at this type of repair.  His post have all sorts of info on the proper way to approach cast repairs.Is it an old Allis?Good luck!RogerOld, Tired, and GRUMPYSalesman will call, Batteries not included, Assembly is required, and FREE ADVICE IS WORTH EXACTLY WHAT YOU PAY FOR IT!Dial Arc 250HFThunderbolt 225 AC/DCAssorted A/O torches
Reply:Farmall Super C, just the right size for my odd jobs here. Also have an M for heavier work.  Thanks, I will check into it further.GeezerPower Mig 255C185 TIGBlue 175 MIGRanger 8 Kohler 20HP1974 5K Lincoln/Wisconsin Powered (Cherry)Victor/Harris O/AK 487 Spool Gun
Reply:Spark and drill test confirm cast iron.
Reply:If the pieces are resonably easy to remove I'd do that, grind the hole, the break and the surrounding surface clean, preheat the whole thing, fill/rebuild it all with a O/A torch and brazing rod, let it cool down very slow and then machine flat, redrill and tap. Alternative two, same basic procedure but using a cast iron welding rod - giving a 100% cast iron repair, no dissimilar metals as with nickel rods or such.
Reply:The big problem here is trying to save the threads you have.  I don't see that happening.  If your really bent on doing this I would grind it all out until you can build weld across it and build it up with a cast rod, nickel is what I am familiar with and then re drilling and tapping the hole.  That said, I'm pretty darn familiar with the tractor you have and I would either just get the replacement parts or buy a tractor to swap the parts out and resell.  You have less than a days work involved and really not that much money when it comes down to it.
Reply:Well folks thanks to all for your inputs, they are appreciated. I took another good look at the tractor and it does not look that bad to disassemble. So, I believe I will go to a few tractor shows this fall,  hit a couple of scrap yards, watch craigs list and see if I can find a replacement part.  It has to come apart anyway.  Failing that I will repair as recommended. Thanks a ton folks, I will post how this turns out.
Reply:Looks to me like that boss has 'A Lot" of meat on it ! I'd find a good location to drill and tap a new hole in it and add a 1/2' plate with three holes in it. locate one hole for the new location,one for a bolt to pass thru for the remaining good location and one drilled and taped to replace the broken location.Scab it on and go from there. I'd also try something similar with the front mount .Gizzmo
Reply:Well I just ran a couple of searches and the cheapest replacement part used was $300.00. I can nearly buy a parts tractor for that.  Adding a plate to the side would obviously work, but front end width has limits since I am mounting a front end loader.
Reply:Either way, repairing the broken parts will be great practice even if you don't need them. And according to Murphys law, if you have the repaired parts ready to use you will never ever need them.
Reply:just buy a parts tractor.  that will be the cheapest as you need the center tube and the front bolster.
Reply:The easiest way to repair it would be to make a plate out of ½” or thicker covering all four holes; then make sure you use a longer bolt to reach the bottom of the broken ear.I have changed from nickel to SS 309 for repairing cast iron. It is much easer to machine and for the last 3 years I have not had any failures. Good luck, Paul
Reply:Looking for a parts tractor now, no big rush so whatever comes along when it does is ok. Putting a plate on the side may compromise the width I need for the front loader. The holes broken are for a cultivator not the loader, just confirmed that. So, I could leave it as is or to make it look somewhat better since I will be painting the tractor is to install a bolt flush with the casing, weld around the broken area then grind to contour. Could grind the bolt head off flush prior to painting. Dunno, will see what happens the next few months on a parts tractor. ThanksGeezerPower Mig 255C185 TIGBlue 175 MIGRanger 8 Kohler 20HP1974 5K Lincoln/Wisconsin Powered (Cherry)Victor/Harris O/AK 487 Spool Gun