First TIG

admin

Got my gas todayRan some beads on some angle iron. Used my foot pedal.  I think it's  just an on off switch and not a power control.  IT has more wires connecting than the TIG torch lead.Does any one know whether I'm right or maybe it is  just that I lack the feel to observe the control? Tried an inside corner and found that the arc wanted to wander away from the  corner off onto the metal field adjacent.  Couldn't figure out what  I was doing wrong.  Maybe the tungsten was too short? Anyway here's the  beads  1/8 electrode   TA 211 This is what I think of the beads01 I think I was dipping the tungsten  I was running maybe 30 amps and trying to swirl the electrode holding it too close because of the low amperage.02 is I think a little hot but not terribly03 seems to have started out OK, but  I am clumsy with the torch and made a mess04 is a lot like 01 but I added filler 1/16" rod. I think the holes are me dipping the electrode. 05 was a hole I filled much like the hole that weld #02 passes 06 is too hot07 is - - well  lets not be  cruel08 I think I was having trouble with electrode distance 55 amps09 was my best I think  66 amps10 was just too hot  about 80 ampswhat do you think?Hey~!! It's a hobby. It's not supposed to make sense~!!
Reply:Put it on kill and then try it.The pedal works just fine but with basically "zero" amps like you are running it IS acting like a foot activated on-off switch..And with such low amperage sometimes the arc will wander all over the place...And another thing..1/8" Tungsten???Geesh..I don't even have any of that and never will..Get some 3/32"...BIG difference..Gas...What are we flowing at?..zap!Last edited by zapster; 06-06-2013 at 06:44 PM.I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:My first inside corner60 amps1/8" electrode1/16"  ER 70S-6 fillerI made a bit of a mess but I'm  loinni'nBut it was brittle and broke at the weldHey~!! It's a hobby. It's not supposed to make sense~!!
Reply:Well, at least now I feel much better about my own welds....thanks!Motorboating...in the Cleavage of the Tetons
Reply:Something isn't right, there is too much porosity. Make sure the steel is clean. Make sure the tungsten is ground nice and sharp. Check your argon flow, might be set too low. How thick is the steel? Looks like about 1/8"-you need more than 30-80 amps. 125 amps and use the foot pedal will get you started if it is 1/8". Always keep the electrode stickout as short as possible, while keeping as tight an arc length as possible. This helps to keep the puddle where you want and keeps shielding gas on the weld better.Airco Ac/Dc 300 HeliwelderMillerMatic 200 (stolen)Miller Maxstar 150STLMiller AEAD200LE (welding and generating power) Hobart MIG
Reply:You are running 100% argon, correct? I had...similar...results until I figured out that Argon/co2 mix doesn't work!Motorboating...in the Cleavage of the Tetons
Reply:Originally Posted by rideitYou are running 100% argon, correct? I had...similar...results until I figured out that Argon/co2 mix doesn't work!
Reply:lets see the tip of the tungsten immediately after you run a bead like that.  I'd bet it's coated to hell and back with metal back-spit. 1st on WeldingWeb to have a scrolling sig! HTP Invertig 400HTP Invertig 221HTP ProPulse 300HTP ProPulse 200 x2HTP ProPulse 220MTSHTP Inverarc 200TLP HTP Microcut 875SC
Reply:Originally Posted by rideitWell, at least now I feel much better about my own welds....thanks!
Reply:Originally Posted by SquirmyPugSomething isn't right, there is too much porosity. Make sure the steel is clean. Make sure the tungsten is ground nice and sharp. Check your argon flow, might be set too low. How thick is the steel? Looks like about 1/8"-you need more than 30-80 amps. 125 amps and use the foot pedal will get you started if it is 1/8". Always keep the electrode stickout as short as possible, while keeping as tight an arc length as possible. This helps to keep the puddle where you want and keeps shielding gas on the weld better.
Reply:Like I have told guys that want to tig weld before.......Start with making a tack weld at a joint on a FLAT WELD  condition.......You won't need to finesse anything so use a 3/32 tungsten I assume your welding steel so use a RED thoriated tungsten....around a 6-7 cup size and just make tacks with maybe one or two dabs....then move an inch or so and do it again.....tack it 25 times......After your comfortable with making tacks try three or four dabs......Do that 25 times.....your done.....Go eat lunch or take a break and come back and do all that again....do that for a couple days til you can dab 5-6 times with control....if it looks bad go back to the beginning and make some tacks.....Its all hand eye control....if your a spastic and can't hit your *** with both hands at the same time.....Well maybe you should try basket weaving......lol  Miller Dynasty 350Twenty Six HammersThree Crow BarsBig Rock
Reply:One of the first things I did to practice TIG was to light up on a piece of 1/8 steel by flooring the pedal, seeing it puddle, then backing off while swirling around until I saw puddle start to solidify, then working the pedal back and forth making it molten, then solid. Just to get a feel for modulating the pedal. This was without dipping any filler. Then I started moving across the face of the workpiece without filler, just getting the feel of working the pedal, keeping the molten puddle at a consistent size.Just one way to build skill.PapaLincoln Idealarc 250 (circa 1962)Lincoln Weldpak 155 w/Mig KitLincoln Squarewave TIG 175
Reply:Originally Posted by papaharley03puddle start to solidify, then working the pedal back and forth making it molten, then solid. Just to get a feel for modulating the pedal.
Reply:Originally Posted by Oscarlets see the tip of the tungsten immediately after you run a bead like that.  I'd bet it's coated to hell and back with metal back-spit.
Reply:grind several pieces so you dont have to run back and forth......  Miller Dynasty 350Twenty Six HammersThree Crow BarsBig Rock
Reply:I'm ordering some now.  My welder only came with one of each of three sizes. I didn't get a 3/32" holder. Odd since it seems to be a commonly used sizeIs there any reason to  avoid Lanthanated ? I read it's harder and takes more heat, so it's tougher to grind and might hold it's shape longer?Here is my second try:I reduced the Argon to  about 10 cfm on the gauge and kicked the heat to 87   using a 1/16" electrode.   I have more control and indeed it is less dirty.   I may have contaminated the weld before with greasy hands handling the electrode.  I though I'd wiped 'em well enough, but apparently one needs to actually wash. This weld was not brittle and I was unable to break it. I tried cranking the heat all the way up and didn't see that the pedal did much to attenuate the power but my patience was rewarded this time by observing that the pedal does  slowly cause the amps arc to be reduced slowly to let me not cavity at the end.Hey~!! It's a hobby. It's not supposed to make sense~!!
Reply:I had the same complaint with the thick rubber torch hose. It was a real pain to have the torch twist in my hand, especially in awkward positions.If you figure out that tig is really your thing, then spring for something like a CK Superflex setup. Its like the torch isnt even connected to machine.OzDynasty 200DXMiller 210 Spooly
Reply:2% Lanthanated is the best electrode in many peoples opinion.  Try to find something bad said about it anywhere.Red splinters for me on AC.  You can see little projections coming off the tip when you're welding.  The blue just forms a smooth tiny ball on the sharpened tip.Unless you're using a gas lens, 10 cfh is a bit low on the argon flow.TA Arcmaster 300CM3XMT 304S22P12 suitcase feederX-Treme 12VSOptima pulserTA161SMaxstar 150STLHypertherm PM45OP setupStihl 020AVP, 039, 066 Magnum