Uses for pulse

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I have beed enjoying my new Lincoln Precision Tig 225. It is a joy compared to the HF 130amp scratch start I had been using at the home shop. I did search but have not found the info.....My question has to do with the fine tuning ablity. Is there any type of info or chart  that gives rough guidelines when and how much pulse is used? And the same for the balance control. I know it varies the cycle on AC but is it a matter of trial and error as to general settings?ThanksmooseTimmetalcraft by mooseSoutheast Michiganhttps://www.facebook.com/Metalcraftbymoose  Stupid Hurts!!
Reply:Pulse??Not needed....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Jody has done several videos that include tig pulse.  Here's two.http://welding-tv.com/2011/12/28/tig...s-steel-parts/http://welding-tv.com/tig-welding-hi...pulse-vs-slow/My .02 on balance: dirty aluminum, more cleaning, clean aluminum, less cleaning action.My machine is old and only has 50/50 balance and no pulse.  They are really just fine tuning bells and whistles.Dave J.Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:Hello Moose, pulse on a GTAW machine has a lot of applications and adjustability. Much of the time the pulse feature will have to do with surface condition and metallurgical make-up of the material and how the pulse will react with it. It can also be influenced by material thickness. Pulsing on some thin materials will yield easier weldability, less warpage, and more consistent weld deposits. If you throw polarity and current type into this mix it further expands the possibilities and range of settings. Some pulsed welding is timed with filler metal addition so as to achieve the "stack of dimes look" that you will see on some aluminum products and as well on stainless steel, or even steel. From my standpoint, if you have a material that is prone to issues of underfill at the toes of the weld, pulsing can sometimes help to alleviate this condition by agitating the puddle just enough to get it to flow/wet-out better.The balance control on the machine is there to allow you to tailor the cleaning/penetrating action of the arc when you are using AC. Cast aluminums, various grades of aluminum, the physical surface condition of the aluminum will all affect the types of settings that you might end up using. So, unfortunately there really isn't a hard and fast rule that addresses specifically every situation. Just keep in mind that as you increase balance towards the straight polarity side you will increase penetration, decrease tungsten degradation. As you increase the polarity balance towards the reverse polarity side you will increase the surface cleaning action and increase the degradation of the tungsten.There is a lot more to all of this and likely others will come up with a lot of additional information. Experimentation is good on your part, so if you can, get after that and you'll soon get a "feel" for how all of this works together. Good luck and best regards, Allanaevald
Reply:Moose,I believe your machine is a tranny machine.  If its anything like a Syncrowave, the highest EN balance you can get is 68%, they're not like inverters where you can vary the balance through a larger range.I'd just keep it turned up all the way.  I have an inverter now, and I find that 65% EN gives me a clean bead on aluminum that's not perfectly clean and still keeps my tungsten alive.As for pulse, I've searched as well but never found a good chart or guide.  B_C had pointed out that he uses Jodi (weldingtipsandtricks.com) Colliers "33" rule for pulse.  33 Hz, 33% of peak for low amp setting, 33% on time. I tried it and it worked quite well.  I needed to weld a 1mm thick cone that stuck up 1/16" inside  1/8" thick piece of steel.  The pulse made me able to make the weld without distorting the ID of the piece.  The puddle kinda just froze there.Hope that helps?TA Arcmaster 300CM3XMT 304S22P12 suitcase feederX-Treme 12VSOptima pulserTA161SMaxstar 150STLHypertherm PM45OP setupStihl 020AVP, 039, 066 Magnum
Reply:Originally Posted by zapsterPulse??Not needed....zap!
Reply:Pretty much mandatory for super thin wall bicycle tubing with exotic alloys. People are paying for pretty, it's what is for sale, really.Motorboating...in the Cleavage of the Tetons
Reply:I use three basic settings, all with 30-40% background current and 30-40% on time. 1.- with 35Hz for thin stainless steel, for welding without filler rod, for gaps and for nicer "stainless colour".2.-with 100Hz for focused arc - for welding near edge and for precise small welds with good penetration3.-with 2-3 hz+ filler rod on every pulse for fast welding titanium or stainless steel welding with low heat input (use that on positioner). Welded titanium exhaust flange with #6 cup and got silver weld ( sure not full penetration weld). It would be hard to do that without pulse.Pulse tig has few uses, but takes a lot of practise to realy do something with it.
Reply:Originally Posted by rideitPretty much mandatory for super thin wall bicycle tubing with exotic alloys. People are paying for pretty, it's what is for sale, really.