stupid ground !!

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Every time.So first time welding in a while, building a spare tire spacer for my jeep.Using some 2x2 square that had been previously(months ago) ground to shiny new metal.It was still bright, but had darkened a little...no rust.Set the welder for 1/8" speed 60, amps 6.5 (miller 211)Starts popping and stuttering and making a mess.So I fiddle with the settings, thinking the feed was too slow, or was running too hot.Getting super frustrated, and grind it all out. Well with a fresh shiny spot to clamp my ground, it works like a champ.Why can I never ever remember to check my freaking ground FIRST!!?!?I was using twisted copper cable to enhance the clamp, but it didn't matter.
Reply:I positively hate this about wire welders.  They're finicky about the ground/work lead it seems.  Has to be pretty clean.But, on the other hand, my LN-25 can sometimes be finicky if the voltage sensing lead isn't on a good surface.  And it definitely runs better at the higher end of the suggested voltage for a given wire."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:I have learned to ALWAYS hit the spot where I intend to attach the work-clamp with a hard grinder FIRST.  It takes only a few seconds and saves a pile of frustration that starts up only moments later.Good habits are that only if you do it every time.- MondoMember, AWSLincoln ProMIG 140Lincoln AC TombstoneCraftsman Lathe 12 x 24 c1935Atlas MFC Horizontal MillCraftsman Commercial Lathe 12 x 36 c1970- - - I'll just keep on keepin' on.
Reply:This may be overkill for some folks, but it works for me.A lot of things I must weld are rusted, some worse than others.Years ago, I adapted a large pair of Vise Grip pliers to become a "Vise grip ground clamp" by welding a 3/8 bolt, (1" long) onto one cheek to serve as the attaching point for the ground lead cable eyelet terminal.Being able to adjust the jaws to get a solid "bite" onto a surface usually provides all the busting of the rust necessary for a good ground contact.And on surfaces where the rust might be a bit heavier, I first adjust for a good bite, and after closing the pliers tight, I give them a back and forth rocking motion to further break through the surface.
Reply:Besides the cleaning, replace the factory supplied ground clamp with a real one.
Reply:Originally Posted by walkerweldYears ago, I adapted a large pair of Vise Grip pliers to become a "Vise grip ground clamp" by welding a 3/8 bolt, (1" long) onto one cheek to serve as the attaching point for the ground lead cable eyelet terminal.
Reply:Originally Posted by KelvinI did that to the part of my welding table where I normally attach the ground clamp, and now the resistance between the clamp and the tabletop is the same as if I touch the leads of the voltmeter together: About 1.6 ohms.
Reply:I'm as green as it gets but I did notice a difference when I got rid of the ground clamp Miller provideed on my 211 and bought a Tweco clamp.
Reply:I'll be getting a decent clamp before I build my stinger (jeep, not welding stinger)
Reply:Originally Posted by wireheadYou can't measure such contact resistances with a typical VOM. If your value of 1.6 ohms is correct, that would mean you would have to drop 160V to push 100A across it. Most welders can only supply a fraction of that voltage.
Reply:The ground is stupid? The weather is too. Mikey C providing much needed sarcasm since 1985....looking to LLC shortly.
Reply:You will also find out fast enough that if you are able to weld with a crappy ground it will get real HOT real Fast!Use caution when going to release the clamp.I came close to burning my hand more than once.Now it's a gentle feel for the temp before unclamping.....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:If you weld primarily on a metal weld table what works for me is to crimp a eyelet lug on the ground cable and bolt it to the table like up in the right corner......Take a length of ground cable and do the same thing but with a clamp on the end and now you have a clamp if you need to weld off the table and a great ground that never gets hot for on the table.......Works for me.....  Miller Dynasty 350Twenty Six HammersThree Crow BarsBig Rock
Reply:I weld on old junk iron most of the time (Scouts), I do occasionally have new metal to weld on, but not usually. I have learned that a good quality heavy duty ground clamp is a must along with a shiny spot for it to clamp to.HF 180 amp/240 volt Mig (cap mod)1987 Harley FLHTP (project)1990 F350 XLT Lariat S/C dually1990 S&S 11SC Cabover Camper2011 Ford Ranger S/C XLT
Reply:Originally Posted by B_CIf you weld primarily on a metal weld table what works for me is to crimp a eyelet lug on the ground cable and bolt it to the table like up in the right corner......Take a length of ground cable and do the same thing but with a clamp on the end and now you have a clamp if you need to weld off the table and a great ground that never gets hot for on the table.......Works for me.....
Reply:Originally Posted by DeuceTrinalDo rely on clamping your work to the table to complete the ground?
Reply:The only time I get concerned about laying the piece on the table for a ground is with aluminum or Stainless lab parts that are finish machined and I don't want any arc marks on them I use a piece of 1/8 aluminum sheet to go between the table and part being welded.......NO ARC MARKS, other than that I just lay stuff on the table and go for it........  Miller Dynasty 350Twenty Six HammersThree Crow BarsBig Rock