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Combat Jump Pickup Truck Crane

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发表于 2021-8-31 22:44:59 | 显示全部楼层 |阅读模式
Combat Jump Pickup Truck CraneI wanted a pickup truck bed mounted crane for occasional lifting of up to 450 pounds (home workshop use, not professional).  My truck is a 2003 4x4 Toyota Tacoma.I found a used Auto Crane “Econo Ton” (their smallest model) on Craigslist for around $500 – a steal, despite it needing all the wiring replaced for the electric winch. After seeing how big this was up close, I had to pass on it. At over 200 pounds less all the mounting hardware I’d have to fab up, it was too tall and heavy for the small truck.http://www.autocrane.com/econo-ton.htmlInstead, I bought one of these from HF:http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=37555Here is what I did:Sawed off and scrapped everything below the rotating mast head.I fabbed up a fixed rearward cantilever mast from 4”x ¼” square tubing.  This allows me to position the crane as rearward as possible on the truck, while selecting the best mounting base location.I topped the mast with an offset 4”x6”x1/2 “ piece of flat as a mounting plate for the rotating mast head, and added a ½” thick gusset underneath.  This base offsets the crane out of the bed and over the truck sidewall.  This was important, as to be able to swing a load over the centerline of the truck bed, the base of the crane needs to move outboard of the centerline.Mounting the cantilever mast to the truck took some thought.  The truck bed is single sheet metal with the familiar stamped flat corrugations – absolutely no support for a crane base.  I sandwiched it with 8.5”x13” 3/8” plate above and below the bed – and since the bed corrugations are 3/8” deep and @ 2” wide, I filled them with 1.5” 3/8” bar running the length of the plate, also top and bottom (bars welded to the plates). 3/8” steel will be flat against corresponding 3/8” steel on the opposite side of the thin bed sheet metal like meshing gears would look, if they were flat (and with the corrugated truck bed in between the “teeth”).I used a cutoff wheel to make a rectangular hole in the plastic bed liner for the plate.I through bolted the perimeter of this 9/8” thick (3/8” x 3) steel “sandwich” with eight ½” grade 8 bolts.  The nuts are welded to the underside of the bottom plate, which makes removal  of the crane a one-man job.  The bottom plate underneath the truck is welded to two sections of channel that are then welded to the truck frame.   A class III hitch adds further reinforcement to this part of the frame.Everything above the truck bed removes by taking out the 8 bolts, leaving only 8 holes and a missing rectangle of plastic bed liner.  Of course, the plate underneath the truck is a huge welded thing that is not going anywhere.(more to follow...) Attached ImagesMiller 211 MIGMiller 375 Extreme Plasma CutterMiller Maxstar 150 STL TIGOxy-Acetylene torch
Reply:To stabilize the truck during use of the crane, I added two outriggers.  I started with two 18” sections of receiver hitch from HF, and welded them underneath the trailer hitch mount.  I then got a length of receiver hitch tubing for the extensions.  These slide out of each side of the truck, and are held either in stowed or deployed configuration with a large pin (also HF).To the ends of each extension, I welded  a trailer jack (yep, HF again) that rotates 90 degrees for storage or use, and locks in place with a spring-held pin.  Both legs can be removed completely, but I leave them attached in the stowed configuration, ready for use.With all this extra weight, I added a set of helper springs to the rear of the truck.Of course, I had to paint it something other than Harbor Freight orange… Krylon gloss black.(still more to follow...) Attached ImagesMiller 211 MIGMiller 375 Extreme Plasma CutterMiller Maxstar 150 STL TIGOxy-Acetylene torch
Reply:I added a larger crane hook to better hold nylon lifting straps.  Shortened, then welded the ram lever in place, and welded a lever to the ram pressure release to make it operable without needing a tool.So, taking my time, and keeping safety in mind, I put together a small crane that has proven to be a good friend to my aching back.  Its still fairly new, so I have no “good thing I had the crane” stories yet.  I have used it for lifting a generator and my welding cart into the truck, and lifting my (full) truck tool box out of, then back in.I am not really happy with the way I store the hook, so will be welding up some other attachment soon. I want the boom to be neatly parallel to the side of the truck when stowed.Thanks for reading.  Let me know what you think. Attached ImagesMiller 211 MIGMiller 375 Extreme Plasma CutterMiller Maxstar 150 STL TIGOxy-Acetylene torch
Reply:VERY nice work on the crane and outriggers!  Good ol' Harbor Freight - may be cheap, but for the most part, they've got just about anything you need ....
Reply:I always wanted something like that, specifically now to lift my welder in and out, I just don't want to do anything that permenant, I've been trying to dream up a way in my head to make a device that i can  put in my receiver that will lift my hobart in and out"Obstacles are those frightful things you see when you take your eyes off your goal"   -Henry Ford
Reply:Nicely done!*************************************Mike AccardiHenderson, [email protected] 250XLincoln Weldpack HDMiller Syncrowave 180 SD*************************************
Reply:My aching back thinks you've done yours a great favor and wishes I would do likewise!Looks like a good answer well executed.Is the Tacoma (Hilux here) about the same size as the earlier Nissan Frontier (D22 Navara here)?"One of the things we have to be thankful for is that we don't get as much government as we pay for." (Charles Kettering)Mitch 180 (NZ)Lincoln SAM-400-220 + ?-400 Fordson Major + 2 x Tractapac Humber 80 + Procut 40 PlasmaMiller Spectrum 375
Reply:Very Nice job. I'm glad you explained your mounting setup as that to me was the most important. I also like your stabilizer bar setup. This is a very well thought out work and back saver that going to have a lot of us thinking, and looking under our trucks to see how easy or hard it will be. Thanks for posting and sharing your ideas.
Reply:Very cool.
Reply:Originally Posted by TractapacMy aching back thinks you've done yours a great favor and wishes I would do likewise!Looks like a good answer well executed.Is the Tacoma (Hilux here) about the same size as the earlier Nissan Frontier (D22 Navara here)?
Reply:I'm going to have to agree with everyone else. Very well thought out and nice work.
Reply:Should be easy to change a flat on the rear now...
Reply:How much weight can you lift with it before the truck starts to lean?
Reply:Originally Posted by daddyShould be easy to change a flat on the rear now...
Reply:Originally Posted by RandomDaveHow much weight can you lift with it before the truck starts to lean?
Reply:I have the exact same lift on the back of my work truck.  For the price, it's a decent piece of equipment.  I do not like the cable hoist that came on my unit.  It does not inspire confidence.  I'll be replacing it as soon as I have the time and money with an economical 12V electric hoist.  I've also thought of a longer ram that is air/hydraulic but that would be a real luxury...Seeing what you did makes me want to run out and re-paint the one I have.  HF orange is not an attractive color.  But, being so bright, I haven't hit my head on the boom yet...Benson's Mobile Welding - Dayton, OH metro area - AWS Certified Welding Inspector
Reply:Originally Posted by A_DAB_will_doI have the exact same lift on the back of my work truck.  For the price, it's a decent piece of equipment.  I do not like the cable hoist that came on my unit.  It does not inspire confidence.  I'll be replacing it as soon as I have the time and money with an economical 12V electric hoist.  I've also thought of a longer ram that is air/hydraulic but that would be a real luxury...Seeing what you did makes me want to run out and re-paint the one I have.  HF orange is not an attractive color.  But, being so bright, I haven't hit my head on the boom yet...
Reply:I find the hand crank winch too slow, and the brake interlock/pawl setup on it is a joke.  Cheap metal and very poor mechanical fit/tolerances on the pieces.  It binds or slips without much provocation.  Definitely not to be trusted, so I don't release the crank handle with a load suspended if I can avoid it.Here's a photo of my work truck.  It's going to undergo a major re-arrangement soon.  I just bought an air compressor that I need to mount.  There's also more to the rack I need to fab and install.  A vise that I'll mount to the receiver in the back so I can remove it when not in use and keep it out of the weather.  New tires, paint, the list is endless.  The rate I finish all this work depends on how quickly the work/money comes in.... Attached ImagesBenson's Mobile Welding - Dayton, OH metro area - AWS Certified Welding Inspector
Reply:I just checked out that link to the Gorilla winch you posted.  Looks good, but I'd dig into the specs a bit closer before buying.  Winches are not hoists, but hoists can be used as winches.  Make sure this thing is designed for vertical lifting and suspended loads.  The brake and safety systems are different for hoists than they are for horizonal pulling winches.  I'd also shop the speed these things run at.  The gorilla model you listed does free wheel for paying out cable, which is good.  But the gear ratio is 103:1.  Sounds like a big ratio, and might be painfully slow to use on a regular basis.  I don't know this for certain, but I'd look at some other models to see how they stack up in comparison...Benson's Mobile Welding - Dayton, OH metro area - AWS Certified Welding Inspector
Reply:One more thought.  I'm not a big fan of Pirate4x4.com, but I do like the tech articles by their contributor Bill Vista.  This one:http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ery/index.htmlis a great primer on winching and some of what he discusses is applicable to vertical lifts as well.  He also has a great primer on steel, which is good reading for any shadetree fabricator; whether you're building roll cages or not.Benson's Mobile Welding - Dayton, OH metro area - AWS Certified Welding Inspector
Reply:Here's a better choice for a manual winch.  From grainger it's about the same cost as the entire HF unit.  I might go with this:http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/2YA27?Pid=searchThis is what I've been eyeing for an electric hoist.  It's pricey, but it's rated for vertical lifting, which I think is critical.http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/3VJ64?Pid=searchBenson's Mobile Welding - Dayton, OH metro area - AWS Certified Welding Inspector
Reply:Interesting project...I was kind of sratching my head a bit at the beginning, but now that I have seen all the photos, and become aware of all the thought that you have put into it, I am pretty impressed. I could use something similiar to load my Ranger (or several other items) into my Super Duty.  I may go at the truck attachment a touch differently, but definitely "Food For Thought" - Got the wheels turning now. LOL.Thank you for posting up this project, and explaining it so well.Have a Good Day.Later,Jason
Reply:Dab - Nice rig.  And good choices for a replacement winch. After today's final touches (and until I replace the stock winch with something better), I am calling this project done. The boom had some looseness to it when stowed, so I redrilled the locking pin hole to accept a larger 5/8" pin (up from the stock 5/16" pin).  You can see it as the one with the red oval handle (another part from HF).  I also added a wire lanyard so I don't loose the keeper pin. I then drilled a tighter fitting 5/16" hole for the stock pin (visible above the red handle pin).  The combination makes the crane fairly solid when stowed. To keep the ram handle from rattling around, I welded a tab near the top of the mast, then attached a plastic clip originally designed to hold a mini Mag light flashlight (see the photo).  This is a perfect fit for the handle. As a final test (showing my confidence here), I lifted my bike into the truck.  While the crane is rated for more, I get a sense that the hand winch doesn't want to take any more weight than this (around 500 pounds). With the outriggers deployed, there is no suspension compression and the truck does not lean at all.  I appreciate the feedback and kind words.  This is a great site, and I have found a lot of good info here. Attached ImagesMiller 211 MIGMiller 375 Extreme Plasma CutterMiller Maxstar 150 STL TIGOxy-Acetylene torch
Reply:wow that thing is awesome.....Adam MMorales Ranch
Reply:I like the mods you made to the pins for the boom and the swivel.  I'm sure I can find those at Tractor Supply.  I'll probably make the same changes.  The latch for the jack handle is a nice bit of work too.  I think I can find something close in the nearest Lowes or Home Despot.  They make clips for hanging shovels, and brooms.  I just use the loop that was installed on the crane to begin with.  It does rattle, but I can't hear it over the diesel engine.  So long as the handle doesn't fall out, I'm ok with it.Seeing what you've done has raised my interest in fabbing up the receiver mound for the crane so I can move it from one truck to another.  I'd also like to get it off the deck of the work truck, as space is getting cramped; or soon will be.Benson's Mobile Welding - Dayton, OH metro area - AWS Certified Welding InspectorVery, VERY nice build Combat.  I especially like the outrigger touch.  Very well thought out and super functional.Again, MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:Man, nice work!  I am dreaming up something like that for my boat for reeling up crab/shrimp pots.
Reply:A neighbor(in his 70s) bought one of these a few years ago for his truck but could never figure out how to properly mount it in his truck. He knew the sheet metal in the bed would not support it fully loaded,and gave up trying to get it mounted, It's now laying in his storage shed collecting dust. I may have to ask him if he wants to sell it.
Reply:lifting the welding rig was great, the bike just blew me out of the water!  really well thought out & nicely done                   Bob
Reply:Great build.We are on our way to being farmers! Our site is always under construction so check back often for updates.  http://www.philosophyfarmstyle.com/
Reply:Very nice work. well thought out and executed. I built one a few years ago and did put the 18 inch cylinder on it. to make it work I had to lower the turning mechanism. Used a 3/4 ton rear axle housing and mounted the boom on it. that allowed me to lift from about a foot above the ground to about 7 feet above the ground without a winch. eventually I bent it over trying to get a large cast iron grate out of a dump box. It would lift a thousand lbs fairly easy. Of course it was mounted on a 1 ton flatbed.  Mac.
Reply:You know that his is a 2 year old thread right?Miller thunderbolt 250Decastar 135ERecovering tool-o-holic ESAB OAI have been interested or involved in Electrical, Fire Alarm, Auto, Marine, Welding, Electronics ETC to name a just a few. So YES you can own too many tools.
Reply:I know its an old thread, but I appreciate the feedback.  I'm now making a similar crane for a Chevy K30.  The truck is a former US Army M1028 CUCV.  I'll post photos as I go.   Here's what I am going for:1. Low cost. Using a modified Harbor Freight truck bed crane, on a mast, with both ram for raising the boom, and a hand crank winch.2. Braced well, not simply bolted to the floor. will have to augment the original hardware, and fab up some bracing.3. Fairly low profile. Must look like it "belongs" to the casual observer.4. Must be removable. I like keeping my truck looking like an original CUCV.5. would like to lift my 550 pound motorcycle into the back of the truck with it. if I could pick up my spare 6.2L engine with it, that would be even better.Tools on hand:1. 4x6 horizontal bandsaw. Mine is a Jet, but its identical to the HF model.2. Miller 211 mig3. Miller 375 Xtreme plasma cutter (for punching bolt holes into the plate)4. Oxy cutting torch (for the same, until I ran out of gas)5. 4 1/2" and 7" Dewalt grinders6. Drill press and hand held drill, plus good bits for steelFirst stop was the steel yard, which also sells scrap. I found some scrap 3/8" plate for a base, and bought some 1 1/5" x 1/4" for to fill the valleys of the bed floor. I have a length of 4" x 1/4" wall square steel tubing that I'll use as a mast (you'll have to wait for the pictures).I cut the 3/8" plate into a shape that would drop into the space behind the right wheel well. Nearly up against the bed reinforcements that come with an M1028, I'll weld a tab on to brace it there.1/2" all thread connects the 3/8" plate to a brace underneath that I fabbed from smaller square steel tubing x .120 wall. Attached ImagesMiller 211 MIGMiller 375 Extreme Plasma CutterMiller Maxstar 150 STL TIGOxy-Acetylene torch
Reply:who cares if its two years old...if you have something to add..like the bottom brace.
Reply:I've been trying to figure out how to do the very same thing on a GMC 1500.Thanks for the Insight!I like ALL the ideas that went into building this!
Reply:Thanks, DRUJININHere's a shot at the brace that goes underneath the bed, leaning against the tacked-up pedestal base. Two under-bed cross braces support the bed, and sit on the frame.  These appear to be 14 gauge.  Rather than drill through them (possibly weakening them), I made the brace to connect long bolts to kind of "U-bolt" around them.  I'll post another shot of this once its installed to give a better idea. Attached ImagesMiller 211 MIGMiller 375 Extreme Plasma CutterMiller Maxstar 150 STL TIGOxy-Acetylene torch
Reply:One more thing... Eight 1/2" bolts sucking a 3/8" plate to the bed of the truck would flatten the ridges and valleys in the bed.  To make a good contact of steel against steel, with no air gaps, I tacked these 1 1/2" by 1/4" bars under the plate where they would sit in the bed "valleys". Attached ImagesMiller 211 MIGMiller 375 Extreme Plasma CutterMiller Maxstar 150 STL TIGOxy-Acetylene torch
Reply:The crane is done.  I added a screw-in lock from a 1/2" fine thread grade 8 nut and bolt to keep it from rotating, and a few other things you can see in the pics.  To test it, I lifted my spare 750 pound 6.2L diesel engine, with the boom extended and full out to the side.  I stopped short of putting it all the way into the bed - the winch was really straining.  This truck is a 5/4 ton, so anything rated less and you'd want to add a support leg to minimize suspension compression for heavy lifting. Attached ImagesMiller 211 MIGMiller 375 Extreme Plasma CutterMiller Maxstar 150 STL TIGOxy-Acetylene torch
Reply:Nice looking K30, I take it it's a M1008/9/whatever they were designated in the first place? Would love one of them for a DD, nice and pokey with 4.56's Bruce
Reply:Bruce, The truck is very similar to the M1008 - its an M1028, with the reinforcements at each corner of the bed, and a 10 leaf spring pack over the rear axle.  Both diffs on this truck were geared 4.56; a Dana 60 up front and a Corporate 14 bolt in the rear - both with lockers.  Top speed was 60 mph.  I've re-geared to 3.73, and can drive 75 on the freeway. Attached ImagesMiller 211 MIGMiller 375 Extreme Plasma CutterMiller Maxstar 150 STL TIGOxy-Acetylene torch
Reply:Well I'll be changing it as soon, as i have the money with an cost-effective 10V power lift. I have also believed, of a more time ram that is air hydraulic but that would be a real high-class.hsaforklifts Melbourne
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