Weld Critique for a Newbie

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Just wanted to get some insight and advice from the experts. I am using a Millermatic 211 on 3" x 6" x 1/8" coupons. I decided on the 6" coupons so that I am forced to adjust while I am welding so that I can practice adjusting and maintaining consistency. Based on advice I've seen given to others, I have been pushing the puddle and trying to focus on learning to "see the puddle", though it can be difficult to see the puddle when pushing. I'm still trying to figure out exactly where I need to be so that I can see it while pushing. I think I might be going a little slow because I am focusing on the puddle and my inexperience means that I am slower than I should be. I'd like to get to where I can read the puddle now rather than simply doing "timing patterns." I think it would make it easier in the long run, but let me know what you guys think. Now, as for the welds, the order is from the top down and all but the last one (2.4) were pushed from right to left.Here are the settings:.030" solid core wire for all weldsWelds in 1st pic (1.1-1.5): 4.0 / 60 on the voltage / wire speed & ~15cfh on the 75/25[/INDENT]Ar/CO2 mixWelds in 2nd pic (2.1-2.4): 4.5 / 65 & ~13cfh on the gasMy initial thoughts:1.1 I was going too slow, which is why I have some burn through1.2-1.5 I sped it up some and didn't have many problems2.1 I felt was a little slow & 2.2 I thought was a little fastI'm really trying to improve my consistency and would like any advice on that and also on whether I am getting "cold lap", "under cut", and properly "wetting in". I'm still trying to learn what all those are. Thanks in advance for the help fellas.Brian Attached Images
Reply:I'm hardly an expert, especially with mig... but I'll say something because I like hearing/reading myself talk.If you're blowing through maybe turn down the wire speed? I can't say much about your settings, I am not familiar with the machine or welding material thinner than 1/4".I don't think I've ever ran stringer beads with solid wire, only flux core. I always do a J weave or a circular, 'e' pattern... not sure what the standard is. Guess it depends what you're welding. I tell you what though. Bevel and butt up some plate together and weave the hell out of it. 3G open root with mig got me pretty efficient at laying down some mig beads.But like I said, I'm no professional. I mostly stick, and TIG when I feel fancy. Being able to see the puddle is crucial. Not necessarily see, like right in front of your eyes, but see it like knowing how to read it. It will tell you everything you need to know.
Reply:IMHO, I don't think those beads look too bad, certainly better than my first (but I don't "push"). Life's a drag, so do as the Romans do. You see in your last bead the "V"'s? That means you're moving too fast. With a good "drag" after cleaning off the "scum" you will see a bunch of "C" like, fine freeze lines right to left, ))))))))) If you hold the little sun as close to the edge of the puddle as you can without stubbing, the filling of the gouge created by the heat of the arc by the molten metal will tell you how fast to move. You'll actually "see" the arc dig into the metal. If you move too fast, especially out of "flat" position e.g. horizontal lap weld, you will get "undercut" where you haven't let the gouge fill completely. If you move too slowly, you won't get good penetration because you are trying to "gouge" the molten metal instead of the solid base metalProbably not academically accurate, but HTH. Oh, and don't look directly at the arcLast edited by wirehead; 06-27-2013 at 11:39 PM.XMT304 (school)SP125+ (home)HF 4x6 BandsawGood judgement comes from experience and much of that comes from bad judgement.
Reply:They look pretty good, are you letting the plates cool a little in between passes, that will give the illusion of too much heat... watch for the little silicon "bubble" just behind the puddle,(you'll see it)and making sure you fill the crater (like wirefeed said) and the crispy sound, these  will tell you if you are spot on with your heat,speed,angle, stick out etc...goes for 7018 , D/Sheild and others as well...The last bead second pic with a little more wirespeed/less amps is what you want...Last edited by DemonSpeeder; 06-29-2013 at 01:33 PM.Lincoln pro mig 180Lincoln Square Wave Tig 300/wp 20/home built water cooler Victor, Purox, Harris, O/A welding/cutting setupsVintage Craftsman drill pressVintage Craftsman/Atlas 12"x 36'' lathe7''x 12'' w/c band saw Everlast 140 st