Lifting Lug

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Got a new excavator a few weeks ago and got two buckets, 36" trenching and a 48" grading. Neither have a good place to hook a chain to lift things, so going to fix that. Picture 1-Tack 4"x5" .25" steel plate to bucket.Picture 2-Heat and beat.Picture 3-Cooling before weldingPicture 4-1/8" 7018 root passPicture 5-Finished weld for lug plate Attached ImagesAirco Ac/Dc 300 HeliwelderMillerMatic 200 (stolen)Miller Maxstar 150STLMiller AEAD200LE (welding and generating power) Hobart MIG
Reply:Picture 6-View of bucket with pad There will be more pictures when I finish. The lifting lug is 3/4" with a 1" hole so that a 7/8" shackle will fit.Tacked the plate with Mig and did all the welds with the Maxstar 150STL about 125-130 amps with 1/8" 7018. Attached ImagesAirco Ac/Dc 300 HeliwelderMillerMatic 200 (stolen)Miller Maxstar 150STLMiller AEAD200LE (welding and generating power) Hobart MIG
Reply:Squirmy that's gonna be some heavy pressure on that pad from the sound of the bucket sizes. I would have popped four holes around the pad eye, lug, hook or whatever your gonna use and plug welded it for strength. Still not to late bud. Hole saw then take the pilot out once your groove is established. Other then my input it's looking good brother!I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:Originally Posted by weldermikeSquirmy that's gonna be some heavy pressure on that pad from the sound of the bucket sizes. I would have popped four holes around the pad eye, lug, hook or whatever your gonna use and plug welded it for strength. Still not to late bud. Hole saw then take the pilot out once your groove is established. Other then my input it's looking good brother!
Reply:Gotcha! I forgot your in Florida turf. I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:Really nice welds.I have a tendency to slightly undercut the plate when doing the final pass on a lap weld like yours.  Your puddle control is excellent."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Originally Posted by farmersammReally nice welds.I have a tendency to slightly undercut the plate when doing the final pass on a lap weld like yours.  Your puddle control is excellent.
Reply:Picture 7-Maxstar cart Picture 8-More mig tacksPicture 9-First pass on pad eyePicture 10-Second passPicture 11-Third pass/Final pass of second layerAirco Ac/Dc 300 HeliwelderMillerMatic 200 (stolen)Miller Maxstar 150STLMiller AEAD200LE (welding and generating power) Hobart MIG
Reply:Picture 12-Shackle in lifting lugAll done, just needs to be painted and put back to work. Attached ImagesAirco Ac/Dc 300 HeliwelderMillerMatic 200 (stolen)Miller Maxstar 150STLMiller AEAD200LE (welding and generating power) Hobart MIG
Reply:Beautiful welds. Great work all around, I'm just in awe of your welds.
Reply:Excellent work Backed my CATMA over your CARMA oops clusmy me  What would SATAN do ?? Miller Trailblazer 302 AirPakMiller Digital Elite  Optrel Welding HatArcair K4000Suitcase 12RC / 12 VSHypertherm PM-45Rage 3 sawRusty old Truck
Reply:Great job Squirmy, nailed it bro!I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:Looks really nice.
Reply:Beautiful welding! You don't think you need a radius on all four corners of the doubler plate?Don’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:That will do the job nicely, looks good too."The reason we are here is that we are not all there"SA 200Idealarc TM 300 300MM 200MM 25130a SpoolgunPrecision Tig 375Invertec V350 ProSC-32 CS 12 Wire FeederOxweld/Purox O/AArcAirHypertherm Powermax 85LN25
Reply:That's some nice looking work man Nice to see equipment get welded carefully the first time. CEP - do those plates start tearing at the corners generally, is that the concern?Dave J.Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:Originally Posted by CEPBeautiful welding! You don't think you need a radius on all four corners of the doubler plate?
Reply:I've welded thousands of doubler plates on the decks of barges, for tie up bits, ballards, fair leads, deck sheaves, deck winches, etc, etc. ABS requires rounded corners. For the smaller doubler plates for tie up bits and ballards we would use ovals. Generally all doubler plates were 3/4 to 1-inch thick. I'm sure the main reason for this is stress cracking.Don’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Cep, have you ever seen doubler plates form stress cracks? Next time I have to do this I may put a radius on the corners, should make the welds look better anyway..changing angle around a sharp 90 is a PITA. All the steel used for this was already cut sitting around the shop so I didn't put tons of work into it, just sandblast/bend/weld.Airco Ac/Dc 300 HeliwelderMillerMatic 200 (stolen)Miller Maxstar 150STLMiller AEAD200LE (welding and generating power) Hobart MIG
Reply:Originally Posted by SquirmyPugCep, have you ever seen doubler plates form stress cracks?
Reply:Is this truly a fishplate in the normal sense?  I've always seen fishplates where there's a joint in the plate, a corner, etc.  Someplace under repeated severe tensile stress along the plane of the plate.I'm probably wrong, but the most sensible comment was the plug weld comment, it was to resist pullout inside the perimeter of the pad.  It's a given that the center of the pad is the weakest in relation to the underlying plate.  It's not truly connected like the welded perimeter.  It's the reason structural connections are bolted through the entire field of the of the connection."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:If we follow this to it's logical conclusion........the pad could have been about maybe 1" wider than the chain lug.  Less tendancy to flex.  But I'm not sure about a radius thing in this application.  Again, I'm probably wrong"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Originally Posted by 7A749Ohhh.....The pretty welds!!!!Looks sharp squirmy.
Reply:Nice job pug. I think it will be good. I will pass on a little of what I know about Reinforcement pads. This is coming from my experience working in the dock business The "Re" pad usually has at least radius corners. Radius or oval or diamond will be the same type of deal as the rule to never weld across a structural member, avoid sharp corners! The RE pad should be one inch bigger all the way around what ever it is supporting. Any bigger or smaller and it wont work properly. Smaller it could still push in and dent what you are trying to protect. Bigger it can tear out of the patch, flex and fatigue and crack. A Re pad is different than a fish plate. A fish plate will be used to reinforce a splice, cracks, a weak point prone to cracking, etc. Usually you can plate out to some where that it doesn't matter or is unaffected. I hope I am a little clearer than mud.Nothing Ever Got Done By Quitting, Never Give Up.
Reply:Doug, which way would be "across" the "structural member" on the back of an excavator bucket? The steel seems to be .25" with another "boxed in" area under it (inside the bucket) so that its 2 layers thick from inside to outside with a space between. With where I put the plate between the vertical quick connect mounts I don't think that any direction would be "across" but I don't really know. Also with the rule of pad needing to be 1" bigger all around the supported part does that change with different pad thicknesses vs base metal thickness? Sounds like I need to buy some more books so I can do things correctly, who knew I should have had this engineered?   Thanks for all the compliments and info guys Airco Ac/Dc 300 HeliwelderMillerMatic 200 (stolen)Miller Maxstar 150STLMiller AEAD200LE (welding and generating power) Hobart MIGIm sorry I wasn't criticizing your work. I wanted to complement you. I think it looks great and will work great and never fail you. I was just sharing what I had been taught and adding to the general discussion about the subject of doubler plates /re pads. I wasn't pointing out any flaws. I try not to criticise, only encourage. If something happened to it with welds like that you've got bigger problems!Nothing Ever Got Done By Quitting, Never Give Up.
Reply:This is a pretty interesting thread The one-inch-over info and the radius corners will go in my welding notebook. My memory is not forever Dave J.Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:Originally Posted by Doug247Im sorry I wasn't criticizing your work. I wanted to complement you. I think it looks great and will work great and never fail you. I was just sharing what I had been taught and adding to the general discussion about the subject of doubler plates /re pads. I wasn't pointing out any flaws. I try not to criticise, only encourage. If something happened to it with welds like that you've got bigger problems!
Reply:What about this idea:  I don't see any issues with this size machine, but for a larger machine (although all of my large buckets that I can think of just have the hook or eye welded directly to the bucket with no pad, Much thicker bucket backs) What if, you put a good bevel on both sides of your eye plate, welded it out flush to outside of plate, then cut a pad out that would fit AROUND your lifting lug.  Cut the opening for the lug where you would have 1/4" to 3/8" opening all the way around the lug, with a bevel.  Start welding out with it, getting good fusion with the bucket and joining to the lug itself.  Then weld around the outside of the pad.  I'm probably not explaining it the way I intend to really... But in effect, your lug would be welded to the bucket, then the stiffener pad would be fused to the bucket and the lug itself.  Just an idea really, and probably overkill.  But I like to err on the side of overkill on things like this.  On my machines, I not only pull, but also set manhole segments, set pipe, set equipment in the hole...etc.  Of course nobody is ever allowed UNDER anything that is suspended, BUT I don't like to drop stuff regardless.-------------------------Chemetron AC/DC 300 HFSnap-On MM300L Lincoln SP140 Lincoln AC/DC 225g Lincoln SA200 Lincoln SA200 Miller Bobcat 225GVictor torchesH&M and Mathey beveling machinesMcElroy Plastic pipe fusion
Reply:As I said, I was taught this when I worked for a dock building company. ill tell you a story for a more practical example. My boss owned a large welding shop in the next province over. This was a separate company from the dock company. Basically his other company was set up to build anything and everything to do with pipe efficiently. They bought the 24" pipe for the 60 foot pontoons. The other company would build the pontoons and I would build the joists from steel studs and then welded them to the pontoons. Then the crew would put the wood on. His design for the docks evolved to be the best around, but not without growing pains. They built a ton of docks and marinas in a small border town, and they needed upgrades. some of the docks were damaged from ice. one was wrecked from the owner trying to plow it with his skid steer LOL. So anyways, they had 2x2 x1/4 tubing welded to the inside of the pontoons in a H shape for pile hoop ( a pile is a large pipe drove down through a hole in the dock into the lake bottom to hold the dock in place). These small tubes had no Re pads and from the flexing and banging from the waves it punctured a hole in the pipe and sunk the end of the dock into the lake. so we used a barge with a zoom boom, come alongs and chain we hoisted it and used a huge pump and a hole I cut into it to get rid of the water so we could go to work repairing. We got rid of the wimpy frame and added 4x4x3/8s tubing with the repads tomake a proper frame work. I believe the pads were 3/8s thick and the pipe was 1/4. Where the cracks were we made the plates over the 1 inch border, with thicker material. It was practical to make the plates extend over the crack,  but using the 1/2" would make up for it.  Also we added UHMW plastic to eliminate the noise and metal to metal shock blow that used to occur. The idea was to get rid of the stress risers with the radius corners and reinforce the connection with the padding. Sure we could have went thicker and bigger but that gets costly with no benefits. Ok not used to long winded postings lol sorry for any grammar mistakes. In summary, we have a few things to remember. Transfer of forces and load requires Plating. Stress riser= square corners. Surface area, of weld and reinforcement. Big crack= Big pad. Big pad= thicker pad. Bigger pad, more money. Most of the time, it will all come down to what ever you have on hand. Sadly most bosses I've worked for want quantity over quality.Last edited by Doug247; 10-01-2013 at 01:55 AM.Nothing Ever Got Done By Quitting, Never Give Up.
Reply:Here is a picture of the 36" bucket after welding. All the other pictures were of the 48" bucket. Picture is a bit blurry  Attached ImagesAirco Ac/Dc 300 HeliwelderMillerMatic 200 (stolen)Miller Maxstar 150STLMiller AEAD200LE (welding and generating power) Hobart MIG
Reply:Looking good squirmy!  One of my threads a while back that started so simple went on forever, and at the end they were arguing over how a spoon is the wrong tool for scooping ice cream! Believe it or not I kept my mouth shut for once and just enjoyed the show!  Great job on the pad too! I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:Originally Posted by weldermikeLooking good squirmy!  One of my threads a while back that started so simple went on forever, and at the end they were arguing over how a spoon is the wrong tool for scooping ice cream! Believe it or not I kept my mouth shut for once and just enjoyed the show!  Great job on the pad too!
Reply:For scale this is the 36" bucket from the last picture, thought you would like to see a lift. Not the heaviest thing lifted so far but the only picture of a lift. I think this will be the last picture for this thread  Attached ImagesAirco Ac/Dc 300 HeliwelderMillerMatic 200 (stolen)Miller Maxstar 150STLMiller AEAD200LE (welding and generating power) Hobart MIG