Best way to bend 1"x4" alum.

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This job I'm on needs this gate built.The weldor she had lined up fell though so looks like I get to build it.I attached a drawing of what she wants .Looks fairly easy I'm just not sure the best way to bend the arch.Thanks guys ...I'm really more of a wood guy Attached Imagesgate.pdf (27.9 KB, 142 views)
Reply:Ok been thinking about it.Maybe the welding yard where I'll be getting the 1x4 from will have a roller
Reply:Looking over the plans, I thought of something.   It says to make the door 1/2" narrower than opening.  Check with your hinge plans about that!  Also, for the dead bolt, is it just going to go into a hole in the concrete?  You could get a 14"x3"x6' plate for little to nothing.  Make a hole in that for the deadbolt to engage into, then fasten the plate to the concrete with hammer in anchor bolts, like readheads.  And, don't know about in the Virgin Islands, but 6" spacing would never pass code around here.  Just a thought.
Reply:Thanks JC,I'll meet with the owner/architect in the morning to go over what she has planed.I've been working on this house for months and I'm still not sure where this gate is going.I'm sure we will do something nicer then a hole in the concrete for the latch.This is a fairly highend house.Here's her master bathroomcheck out how the slider's meet Shower wallstill needs some more mirrors
Reply:Its 4" spacing I think the 6" is just the latch
Reply:Originally Posted by IamVinceIts 4" spacing I think the 6" is just the latch
Reply:Here is what I was thinking....  Use these to fasten the 1/4"x3" to the brick/concrete:http://www.drillspot.com/products/43...mer_Set_AnchorThey are low profile and look good.  Better than having a bolt sticking out.Then look at the picture.  It is dimensionally correct based on the plans.  See the hole in the strip for the dead bolt?  Looks a bit more professional, and more secure.It's your project, and the customer has to be happy.  I'm just throwing out a suggestion. Attached Images
Reply:IamVince,You're going to be putting a lot of stress on that solid 1'x4" solid bar trying to roll it to that small a radius.  That's if you can even find a roller that can handle it.  Lot of deformation.I'd personally cut the arch out of 1/8" plate and roll the inner and outer filler (3/4").  Then I'd tig the arch together.  If you properly bevel the filler, you can grind the bead smooth and still retain more than adequate strength.I've never seen a roller/bender that could do solid 1"x4" solid bar or box with that small a radius.Disregard the above.  Going back and looking at the drawing, I see that they're talking about a gate 3"-4" thick, not with a 3"-4" face.  1" alum can be rolled to that radius.  I was thinking they wanted a 4" face with a 1" thick gate.  Gonna be a pretty "massive" gate.  That thing would put most prison gates to shame.Last edited by SundownIII; 06-25-2009 at 02:48 AM.Syncro 250 DX Dynasty 200 DXMM 251 w/30A SG XMT 304 w/714 Feeder & Optima PulserHH187Dialarc 250 AC/DCHypertherm PM 1250Smith, Harris, Victor O/ASmith and Thermco Gas MixersAccess to a full fab shop with CNC Plasma, Water Jet, etc.
Reply:Yep thats the way I'll do it except I'll mig it.It's still up in the air weather or not I'll be doing it.The thing is it has to match a top arch that is close but not a exact radius.I made a template. I was thinking I'd cut the side's out of 1/8" plate also.If I knew how to tig I'm sure that would be the best way to go.