welding with coreshield 8

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i have been welding with coreshield 8, 1/16 on some projects here at the house and Im having penetration issues with it, wouldnt burn through 1/4" plate. Im running the highest volts it recommends for it I think 22 volts and it still doesnt burn in. I have turned it up higher but then I need higher wire speed and I end up with a big fat goofy looking weld Im running it with an Ln 25 and a miller trailblazer. It does okay if I have gap but flat work still looks like I spread it on with a caulking gun. Another question if I run it at 22 volts thats about 70 or 80 amps but the sheet on it recommends 150 amps or thereabouts so what should I do, crank the welder up?  Im not doing code work I just cant stand the way 21b welds
Reply:For 1/16" diameter Coreshield 8, here's what I found in ESAB's datasheet:AMPS  Volts  WFS155 A   21      150 ipm 180 A   22      185 ipm 205 A   24      240 ipm 220 A   25      275 ipm You need to give more details about the type of joints(fillet, butt, flat, hor, vert, overhead,etc) you're trying to weld and the WFS you're using.  "80 amps" isn't even in the ball park for this diameter and type of wire.From your comments I guess you're welding butt joints.  It would be easiest to ensure complete penetration of the joint if you beveled the plates a bit first.  You might also need 2 passes to fill a beveled joint, but I'm not certain of this.You're weld beads are piling up because something isn't right.  it's tough to be certain without a picture of what's happening, but I'd guess your settings are wrong and your travel speed is probably too slow.Give a try using 22 Volts at the feeder and 185 IPM on the wire feed speed.  You should be moving the gun at about 6-8 inches per minute and using about a 10-20° drag travel angle.Post again if you need more help...Benson's Mobile Welding - Dayton, OH metro area - AWS Certified Welding Inspector
Reply:be sure you dont have the HI- LOW switch for the wire speed in the high mode, its really tiny and right above the wfs dial. seen that before
Reply:Are you running it electrode negative?
Reply:I welded some flat bar and broke it just to see what kind a penetration it has with out beveling, it looks like it just laid right on top, the wowy in the bead is because my helmet fogged up at the end.http://weldingweb.com/attachment.php...1&d=1262034388 Attached Images
Reply:Bevel that joint.  Flat butt joints with zero gap between the plates aren't going to get 100% penetration.Grind about a 30° bevel on both sides, or you could try 45° on just 1 side.  Leave a Root face, or 'land', of about 1/8" and try again.I've attached a picture of one possible joint.  It's dimensions don't match your situation,but it illustrates the bevel geometry I'm trying to describe.  I don't know what your background is.  If you're a beginner realize you're going to have trouble with burning through at first. If by chance you still can't get 100% penetration, try leaving a 1/16" - 3/32" gap between the two plates in addition to beveling the joint.Post your machine settings and polarity if you're still having trouble.... Attached ImagesBenson's Mobile Welding - Dayton, OH metro area - AWS Certified Welding Inspector
Reply:Originally Posted by jsfabAre you running it electrode negative?
Reply:Im kind of new to wire feed I have burned a couple hundred pounds of wire but Im not confident in my abilities yet, I have always just used +p rod for everything but thats slow. Should I have beveled this weld to or how would someone do this weld, Im talking about the 4x4x1/2"angle iron to the base plate http://weldingweb.com/attachment.php...1&d=1262036857Last edited by idacal; 12-28-2009 at 04:56 PM.
Reply:according to the spects Im running the right polarity I do have a good ground and all that, other than the flat work beads I like this wire, and I will get them figured out
Reply:Many many people get confused, straight/reverse polarity.   I ask specifically, you ARE running electrode NEGATIVE, whatever your preconcieved notions of polarity????   I ask again,  only because,  if a man can't run a 21b, he has no business fooling around with coreshield 8.
Reply:Is there a polairity switch inside the feeder box? Switches on the machine in the proper position with cables hooked to the right lug? Are you using the CV setting? What Trailblazer?Last edited by lars66; 12-28-2009 at 05:32 PM.
Reply:the nice thing about miller welders is its very simple to tell which way its running it says right on it. http://weldingweb.com/attachment.php...1&d=1262039349The switch on the feeder is also set to negative, as for the 21b I would like to see some pictures of how those welds are supposed to look, in that last picture I welded the base plate with 21b when I ran out on friday. Yes I had the right polarity for that to. I hate to throw away the rest of the roll of wire
Reply:trailblazer 302  running on cv 22 volts 190 imp
Reply:What happens if you start turning the voltage up?
Reply:It starts to get bird tracks unless I speed up the wire, if I do that I get big fat beads, most of the stuff Im welding on is 1/2" thick or less, I bevel the stuff thats going to be criticalLast edited by idacal; 12-28-2009 at 06:17 PM.
Reply:CV DC-bevel the jointdrag the torchsame torch angle as dragging a stick3/4" - 1" stickoutKeep the wire on the leading edge of the puddleflat/horiz- 1/16" T8 wire, try 22v & 275ipmMM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:Originally Posted by jsfabMany many people get confused, straight/reverse polarity.   I ask specifically, you ARE running electrode NEGATIVE, whatever your preconcieved notions of polarity????   I ask again,  only because,  if a man can't run a 21b, he has no business fooling around with coreshield 8.
Reply:Originally Posted by DesertRider33CV DC-bevel the jointdrag the torchsame torch angle as dragging a stick3/4" - 1" stickoutKeep the wire on the leading edge of the puddleflat/horiz- 1/16" T8 wire, try 22v & 275ipm
Reply:LOL.  There are many things I don't know!The above volt/wfs rec's are from my use with Hobart XLR-8.  They may not work as well with ESAB Core-8.Fluxcore is typically faster to complete a job with than stick if the job involves alot of welding.  They can both be used for similar applications.  Stick is quicker/easier/cheaper to change electrode type or size. Stick is quicker/easier to use in hard to reach or far away locations where dragging the feeder along isn't practical or reaching with the torch isn't possible.   Stick has less variables to contend with when setting up the machine and performing the weld.  To me, stick is more relaxing to weld with.  Stick is a little less affected by wind than fluxcore self shield, but fluxcore does ok, alot better than gas shielded wire.  They both smoke and spatter equally well.Last edited by DesertRider33; 12-29-2009 at 12:37 AM.MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:idacal,     The only time I really ran any wire was in school.  We would run lincoln nr232 or esab coreshield 8.We would set the machine at approx. 20 volts then adjust the wire speed (with help) until the amp meter read 250 amps.  This setting would then be good for any position.  Coreshield 8 is rated for structual welding in seismic areas and you could easily punch a hole thru 1/2" plate with this wire.
Reply:Be sure that you are REALLY running electrode negative.As I recall, 23v and 225 ipm is a good place to be.If you voltage is good, but amps are low crank up the WFS.If you aren't pulling some amps, how could it possibly give you decent penetration?And, remember that the readings on the machine cannot account for lenght and size of cables, quality of connections, etc.Set it up and then tweak it until it works.
Reply:I ran a lot of this wire when I was doing bridge fabrication, and as others have said, you should be able to burn completely through the material you are working with. You are not going to want to use the setting I ran, since the thinnest stuff I have welded with it was 1/2". Double check that you have your settings right with what Esab recommends, especially polarity.
Reply:In my business the only way to make any money is using Flux-Core welding. Is is and always will be faster than stick. I use flux-core for everything from structural steel to repairs to pipe welding. If you are having trouble running Coreshield 8 the problem lies with you and your machine's settings as flux-core is the easiest wire to set up and you can get the prettiest welds under the sun. My customers would fire me if I started using stick again as it is the slowest way to weld. I took all my tests with stick but would never use it unless it is absolutely necessary.SPARK...SPARK...SPARK...SAPARK...SPARK...SPARK...LawrenceA & E Welding ServicesBaltimore, MarylandWelder-Artist-MachinistD1.1 Structural Steel CertifiedAWS 6G Pipe CertifiedRanger 250Hobart Beta Mig IILN-25
Reply:Originally Posted by idacali have been welding with coreshield 8, 1/16 on some projects here at the house and Im having penetration issues with it, wouldnt burn through 1/4" plate. Im running the highest volts it recommends for it I think 22 volts and it still doesnt burn in. I have turned it up higher but then I need higher wire speed and I end up with a big fat goofy looking weld Im running it with an Ln 25 and a miller trailblazer. It does okay if I have gap but flat work still looks like I spread it on with a caulking gun. Another question if I run it at 22 volts thats about 70 or 80 amps but the sheet on it recommends 150 amps or thereabouts so what should I do, crank the welder up?  Im not doing code work I just cant stand the way 21b welds
Reply:well guys I know this is an old thread I finally figured out today what was wrong I have a couple rolls of fabshield 21b in the shed. I and was cleaning up and was going to toss them and it irritated me because of how much they cost. and because someone posted somewhere if you can wipe your *** you can weld with this stuff. I was little insulted  to be honest. I had also quit using the ln 25 and went back to using stick for everything because of no penetration with the corshield and the gobbing of the 21b . I put a roll back on and within minutes was cussing and swearing at it again. after three hours of checking things, different volts, different everything I flipped the switch from cv to cc and did not change the leads on the welder. I had tried this before but I always switched welder leads. Instant gratification. I bought this machine used and somewhere In its history someone put that switch in backwards and Im the sucker thats fought with it ever since.Do not argue with an idiot. He will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience.That’s a kick in the head! Hope you take the time to correct the switch.
Reply:Good to see you stuck with it untill you figuered the problem out.
Reply:There are no better wires for welding outdoors than the E71 T-8 wires. Esab Coreshield 8, Lincoln Nr232, Hobart Fabshield XLR8  and on and on. I prefer NR 232 because it feeds better- its a little harder than the other wires so the drive rolls don't deform it and cause feeding problems. Figure it out and you will never waste your time or your customers time with stick again.Last edited by Welding Fool; 08-03-2013 at 06:34 PM.