6011 or 7018

admin

i'm practicing running beads on a plate i think it's 1/4 inch i'm using 3/32  7018 but ain't gooddo i need  a bigger rod size and i know that 6011 is good 4 plate i'm running about 120 amps
Reply:120 amps is high for 3/32" 7018. Try around 95 amps. 125 amps is about what we use for 1/8" 7018. 6011 would not be my 1st choice for plate. 7018 is usually a better choice for several reasons.Post up picts of your welds along will all the info. Machine used, AC or DC, amps thickness of material and so on and we'll help you out. "ain't good" doesn't really tell us much about what your issues might be..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:You need a box of 6010 and learn to run it up, down, around in circles, overhead and in your sleep. May take more than one box. Use the 6011 only if you get a job of welding something greasy or full of rust. Scrape or paint over the numbers on the front of your welder so you dont depend on someone telling you how many amps to run. Weld as cold as you can run a good weld and keep an arc. Get your penetration with a hand grinder.  As you get better you will be turning it down farther and farther. Then learn the 7018 the same way. practice, practice, practice,
Reply:Welderskelter - welding cold is terrible advice for a beginner.The numbers are there more for finding the right range and easy repeatability once it's found (for that machine and those rods).I can't remember ever seeing a pro scratch off the numbers on a welder. Maybe manufacturers should just label boxes: "weld wherever it feels comfortable"Dave J.Last edited by MinnesotaDave; 08-06-2013 at 02:29 PM.Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:Hello Mig welder95, first off, are you using a DC or AC welding machine? I ask that due to the fact that E7018 isn't always that friendly on an AC machine. E6011 on the other hand generally works well with either AC or DC.When you look at the manufacturer's recommendations for most "standard" E7018(other than E7018AC) you will see that the first current choice is for DC reverse polarity, a secondary choice of AC might then be listed. I also mentioned the E7018AC, this is one of the reasons for this particular type of  E7018, it is specifically formulated for use on AC machines, although it will weld just fine on DC+ as well. E6011 is an AC rod, yet it will operate on DC+ as well. It's DC counterpart, E6010, is a DC only rod and not well suited to being run on AC.  I am hopeful that this explanation has possibly cleared up some points for you. Some of the other posters have given some great tips and information for settings and such. Good luck and best regards, Allanaevald
Reply:I would go about 85 amps on a 7018 3/32 ...  Really depends on your machine but thats a safe starting point .And if you're just practicing fillets 6013 might be a good way to go if you wanna save some cash.But on carbon steel.. I prefer 7018 100% But if you get good at 6010/6010 5p+/6011.....7018 will be cake brotherGood luck amigoSal
Reply:Typically 7018 welds look better than 6011 (when done right).  3/32 rod should be fine for 1/4" steel.   You don't need bigger rod. You just need to practice and get the right settings.   7018 is not the easiest rod for beginners, however.
Reply:I tried loading a .pdf & it won't let me. 6010 & 6011 is the same rod with different coatings. 6010 is DC+ only while 6011 is AC/DC+ or DC-. This explains it, I don't know how well it will show up here, I use Open Office instead of MicroSoft & get fits to make stuff work.AWS Classification Explained, electrode numbering systemThe American Welding Society (AWS) numbering system can tell a welder quite a bit about a specific stick electrode including what application it works best in and how it should be used to maximize performance. With that in mind, let's take a look at the system and how it works.The prefix "E" designates an arc welding electrode. The first two digits of a 4-digit number and the first three digits of 5-digit number indicate tensile strength. For example, E6010 is a 60,000 psi tensile strength electrode while E10018 designates a 100,000 psi tensile strength electrode.E6010 Electrode-  Tensile Strength           Position                Type of Coating and Current                                   60                           1                                     10The next to last digit indicates position. The "1" designates an all position electrode, "2" is for flat and horizontal positions only; while "3" indicates an electrode that can be used for flat, horizontal, vertical down and overhead. The last 2 digits taken together indicate the type of coating and the correct polarity or current to use. See chart below:*DigitType of CoatingWelding Current10 High cellulose sodium DC+11 High cellulose potassium AC or DC+ or DC-12 High titania sodium  AC or DC-13 High titania potassium AC or DC+14 Iron  powder titania AC or DC- or DC+15 Low hydrogen sodium DC+16 Low hydrogen potassium AC or DC+ 27 Iron powder iron oxide AC or DC+ or DC- 18 Iron powder low hydrogen AC or DC+ 20 High iron oxide AC or DC+ or DC- 22 High iron oxide AC or DC- 24 Iron powder titania AC or DC- or DC+ 28 Low hydrogen potassium iron powder AC or DC+*As a welder, there are certain electrodes that you will most likely see and use time and time again as you go about your daily operations. A DC machine produces a smoother arc. DC rated electrodes will only run on a DC welding machine. Electrodes which are rated for AC welding are more forgiving and can also be used with a DC machine. Here are some of the most common electrodes and how they are typically used:E6010DC only and designed for putting the root bead on the inside of a piece of pipe, this is the most penetrating arc of all. It is tops to dig through rust, oil, paint or dirt. It is an all-position electrode that beginning welders usually find extremely difficult, but is loved by pipeline welders world-wide. Lincoln 5P+ sets the standard in this category.E6011This electrode is used for all-position AC welding or for welding on rusty, dirty, less-than-new metal. It has a deep, penetrating arc and is often the first choice for repair or maintenance work when DC is unavailable. The most common Lincoln product is Fleetweld® 180 for hobby and novice users. Industrial users typically prefer Fleetweld 35.E6013This all-position, AC electrode is used for welding clean, new sheet metal. Its soft arc has minimal spatter, moderate penetration and an easy-to-clean slag. Lincoln Fleetweld® 37 is most common of this type.E7018A low-hydrogen, usually DC, all-position electrode used when quality is an issue or for hard-to-weld metals. It has the capability of producing more uniform weld metal, which has better impact properties at temperatures below zero. The Lincoln products are typically Jetweld® LH-78 or our new Excalibur® 7018.E7024Typically used to make a large weld downhand with AC in plate that is at least ¼" thick, but more commonly used for plate that is ½" and up. Lincoln has several electrodes in this category that are called Jetweld® 1, 2, or 3.Other ElectrodesAlthough not nearly as common, an electrode may have additional numbers after it such as E8018-B2H4R. In this case, the "B2" indicates chemical composition of the weld metal deposit. The "H4" is the diffusible hydrogen designator, which indicates the maximum diffusible hydrogen level obtained with the product. And "R" stands for the moisture resistant designator to indicate the electrode's ability to meet specific low moisture pickup limits under controlled humidification tests.Only when the last tree has died and the last river has been poisoned and the last fish has been caught will we realize we cannot eat money.                                         -Cree Indian ProverbSA 200 LincolnVictor Torches
Reply:Holy 5hit gizzard... Carpel tunnel in one sittingSal
Reply:Originally Posted by WPSalvationHoly 5hit gizzard... Carpel tunnel in one sitting
Reply:Originally Posted by bigbI think he just cut and pasted it
Reply:There has been some poor advice given in this thread. With stick welding in general, you want to run as hot as you possibly can yet still be able to control your puddle. This is especially the case with 7018 rod. Your amperage (heat) setting will also depend on what position your welding in. In a flat position, I will typically run 3/32 7018 at 100 amps and 1/8 7018 at 135 amps. Now, if I'm welding vertical up with 1/8 7018 I will be somewhere between 110-120 amps. Use the extra heat to your advantage and it will pay off for you in the end. You wil reduce the chances of burrying slag and achieve better penitration.6010 and 6011 are basically the same animal in how they run and tecnique used. They run very similar with each other. 6011 is for ac weld current only machines. 6010 runs on dc only weld current. They run much different than 7018.Last edited by snoeproe; 08-08-2013 at 03:55 AM.JasonLincoln Idealarc 250 stick/tigThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52Miller Bobcat 250Torchmate CNC tableThermal Arc Hefty 2Ironworkers Local 720
Reply:Originally Posted by snoeproeThere has been some poor advice given in this thread....6011 is for ac weld current only machines.
Reply:6011 will run fine on a dc machine. The rod itself however was designed as a rod to run on ac weld current with similar operating characteristics as 6010 which will only run on dc weld current. 6010 rod is a code rod for root passes in pressure pipe. 6011 is a non code rod. 6011 will run on a cheap ac buzzbox. 6010 will not. 6010 requires a strong dc welder to run properly.JasonLincoln Idealarc 250 stick/tigThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52Miller Bobcat 250Torchmate CNC tableThermal Arc Hefty 2Ironworkers Local 720
Reply:Listen to snoeproe - weld hot, not cold.Dave J.Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:Originally Posted by MinnesotaDaveListen to snoeproe - weld hot, not cold.Dave J.
Reply:Weld as hot as you can with stick. Weld as hot as you can till you are at the limit of being able to control your puddle without loosing it. The rest will take care of itself.JasonLincoln Idealarc 250 stick/tigThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52Miller Bobcat 250Torchmate CNC tableThermal Arc Hefty 2Ironworkers Local 720
Reply:I agree, hot and fast.  I have my students welding 1/8 7018 rods flat at 130-135, vertical, 115-120, overhead 120-125..  I noticed most were running to cold, once we turned the amps, they were surprised on how much better the welds came out.For 3/32 7018, I run around 100 amps for all positions..
Reply:Originally Posted by ShortbusWelderFor 3/32 7018, I run around 100 amps for all positions..
Reply:In school we started off with 6011 and 6013 (both 1/8). After we did all the assignments, surfacing, laps, Ts, open root butts, and assemblies with each rod, we changed over to 6010 & 7018 and started over again.
Reply:Originally Posted by WPSalvationThat is a little hot for my liking.I actually run the same heat for 3/32 7018 as i do for 1/8 6010...85-90 amps .. Unless we're talking root passes obviously.
Reply:Machine brand, age, general condition, length ,diameter, & condition of leads  tweco quick connects  etc. all factor into the true amperage @ the stinger. A good welder uses the machine settings, rod weld parameters as a ballpark figure.