Williams Low Buck Notcher?

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Anyone using the Williams Low Buck tube notcher?  If so, what do you think of it?  Last project I used a JD2 TN100 hole saw type notcher and while it worked great, using 40-50 bucks worth of saws starts to add up.  I don't do it for a living or enough to justify a Baileigh or something stout.  I'm looking for something that is a bit easier on consumables but still only a few hundred bucks.Dave
Reply:there is a website named snip=sawing notch in pipe. free and easy to use. it lets you get decent fitup with 2 straight cuts-no hole saw.
Reply:I had one for about 5 years.  I sold it when I got an ironworker.  It is a nice tool.  Does what it is adveritsed to do.  The dies are case hardened to about 1/16 inch, so you can resharpen resize them, they are also oversized.  I never had to resharpen them.  I never had any problems with it.  It is great for 90 degree fit up--very fast.  Depending on the fitup you desire, I don't think it is a good tool for angles--there are faster ways to do that.  It would be good for roll bars and industrial rails. However for Architectural stuff you would probably want a hole saw or sander. The saw method is good, too.
Reply:http://snip.awardspace.com/Thanks,  weldbead
Reply:Thanks guys.  That online calculator is a neat tool.  My application is for stock car chassis and cages.  We use DOM and/or REW tubing.  I haven't seen any race chassis or cage fab shops using anything but mill end or hole saw based tools.  Fit up is critical as the forces on a cage when a car whacks the wall or another car are pretty extreme.  Lot's of tubes to be notched at different angles.  Dave
Reply:The place I help out at PT uses a mill and flycutter to notch pipe for crane lacing. I'm not sure if I still have the picts on the computer or not. You can set the angle from 90 deg to a little more than 45 deg and easily change pipe dia. by adjusting the flycutter..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:I own one. Like tapwelder's experience, I'd agree, it does what is claims to do. I have not used it alot, but my guess is that you could do quite a bit of notching before you'd have to sharpen the dies. It will notch for angle fit-up's by taking more than one bite, or by changing how far you insert the tube into the mouth, but it is not a precise deal, more a trial and error/experience deal. In other words, you can't set it for angles, you have to guess/experiment/ get good at it with practice. I have not used a hole saw type, but I know that good quality hole saws can cut alot of holes if used properly...For making 90 deg. joints, it is a simple effective tool.
Reply:i dont think baileigh sells any thingfor a couple hundred
Reply:Baileigh does have a low end unit that looks like an OEM "Ol Joint Jigger" for under 200.  I was referring to the big machines like the TN300 or 400 that start at a few grand.    My tubing fab contractor notches most of it for me and in talking to him it seems my issue might be more of using cheap hole saws.  Specifically about the Williams I was curious as to how they handled angles.  Thanks for the replies.
Reply:There is a tremendous difference in quality between holesaws.I mostly use lenox, but I'm sure there are other good options.
Reply:Originally Posted by daddyThere is a tremendous difference in quality between holesaws.I mostly use lenox, but I'm sure there are other good options.
Reply:The Lennox are what I'd been using.   What Rojo says is what is happening, the teeth round out.  I'm looking at a set of Morse blues right now.  The Williams doesn't look like it's what I want.  Leaning toward the JD2 Notchmaster.  The JMR looks good as does the one Medford makes but I don't want to spend 500-600 on a notcher.
Reply:my jd works great and the ridgid saws from home depot last me a long time Attached Images
Reply:Thanks Ed.  Not too long after I posted I ordered a Notchmaster from Medford Tool.  I'm going to try a Starett saw and see how that works.  I'm looking at those adjustable tubing clamps from Van Sant but I think I'll give a crack at building some first.  Doesn't look too difficult.
Reply:Just do some geometric line development and create templates for the most commmon pipe sizes and angles you use. and maybe laminate them and then you can oxy or grind it out
Reply:I've got Low buck notcher. It works well and it's quick for joints at or near 90*. Bulletproof and cheap to run, quiet too.  Do most of my notching with the chop saw. Easy once you get the hang of it. Also it's easy to sneak up on a length for a piece of tubing between two other pieces, you can shave off 1/8" at a time so it fits tight.
Reply:For you guys that notch manually, how many pieces do you have to do in a day or project?  I have notched manually but using a notcher  for me was both quicker and more accurate and repeatable.  You guys are studs to be consistently notching the same cuts.  I couldn't do it.  Same with bending.  Sure you can calculate the bend points by hand but once you start using bending software it's a whole new world.  And a lot few mistakes on one off parts.  Most of the production or high end race fab shops I see use mill end but I see some abrasive notchers at some smaller and/or one off places.Dave