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I am trying to increase the corrosion resistance of hydraulic fittings used on hoses in a car wash. I have a 3/8 nominal crimp on end (new uncrimped) and have run a 9/32" reamer in it. I have brass tubing that is almost a press fit into the inner part of the fitting after reaming where the water flows. It's about 2 1/2 inches long and I'm wanting to know how to keep the brass tubing there now and in the future. I did one with jb weld and a q tip but am wondering about brazing it or soldering it. Will the braze draw into the miniscule void between the outer wall of the tubing and the reamed inner surface of the fitting? How about just brazing the iner surface of the fitting and forgetting about the brass tubing? Is this possible? From reading about it it seems like i need to heat it to a dull red and then the braze will suck right in? How will I know if it worked? My concern is that if any water at all gets between the brass and steel the steel will rust and swell and I will have problems in the future. Thanks for reading! I have an oxy acetylene torch, map torch, propane torch and miller 200 welder with spool gun, CO2 and jb weld at my disposal.
Reply:Any brazing effort is going to make things worse since you'll burn the zinc plating off and the rest of the fitting will rust faster. Sounds to me like you need to get some stainless hydraulic fittings. That's the real answer.Millermatic 252XMT 304'sDynasty 280DXHypertherm PowerMax 1250Miller Trailblazer 302 EFIOptima PulserXR feeder and XR Edge gun and more athttp://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm
Reply:How about a picture showing what you are trying to do.
Reply:agreed on the stainless fittings. You could try to epoxy coat the fittings after assembly alsoVantage 500's LN-25's, VI-400's, cobramatics, Miller migs, synch 350 LX, Powcon inverters, XMT's, 250 Ton Acurrpress 12' brake, 1/4" 10' Atlantic shear,Koikie plasma table W/ esab plasmas. marvel & hyd-mech saws, pirrana & metal muncher punches.
Reply:Here is a video of what I've done, thank you for your input.
Reply:Good silver solder, the correct work temperature, good flux coverage on the surfaces you want to solder, and the correct gap between parts should give you excellent chances to have a perfectly filled joint. I silver soldered for the first time this saturday, it's really amazing how well the capillary action can fill the space between parts with solder. I have a couple of books suggesting 0,05-0,20mm gap for silver soldering, so press fit does sound a bit tight.On the other hand, taking the time and materials involved into account, you might be better off just getting stainless parts instead, if they're available. But whats the fun in that?
Reply:What G-son said ^^^ though I would be concerned the same way irish fixit is...what is it about the "water" that is corrosive, just saying if it were me going to all that trouble I would see if there were not some material that would be even more suitable (even at that, there are all types of "brass" and if you include bronzes, far more, some very tough but not sure how resistant to corrosion).Stainless is still the answer.
Reply:Buy the right hose end fitting. Parker or aeroquip or SSP. All make stainless fittings. There is no place for steel fittings in a car wash.Multimatic 200Ellis 1800Haberle S225 9" cold sawMM 300; Spoolmate 30A w/ WC-24TB 302GDynasty 280 DX Tigrunner
Reply:weld4meDrooopy's - S/S consideration is a great leap 'backwards' - consider it . . .Opus |
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发表于 2021-8-31 22:41:43