Correct TIG technique?

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Hi, I was wondering if my tig welding technique is correct or not.  I run the torch continuously while dipping/feeding the rod as I go.  Another guy where I work uses a stop and go method.  He feeds the puddle with rod, goes and stops, and feeds the puddle again.  Is his technique of stopping and going correct, or mine of continuously moving the torch?  And what is the most accepted method in the industry?Welders have bigger rods.Welders achieve deep penetration.Welders know how to fill a gap.Don't eat the yellow snow.
Reply:Both are acceptable methods. A lot depends on the material, joint type etc.  Sent w/ Tapatalk using Swype, pls excuse typosTiger Sales:  AHP Distributor    www.tigersalesco.comAHP200x; AHP 160ST; MM350P,  Spoolmatic 30A; Everlast PowerTig 185; Thermal Dynamics 60i plasma.  For Sale:  Cobra Mig 250 w/ Push-pull gun.  Lincoln Wirematic 250
Reply:Originally Posted by soutthpawBoth are acceptable methods. A lot depends on the material, joint type etc.  Sent w/ Tapatalk using Swype, pls excuse typos
Reply:I do the stop and go treatment all the time but I am SO fast it looks like I just keep going..And that's no B.S....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:I should probably say the most "common" method, not the most "accepted" method.Welders have bigger rods.Welders achieve deep penetration.Welders know how to fill a gap.Don't eat the yellow snow.
Reply:Originally Posted by zapsterI do the stop and go treatment all the time but I am SO fast it looks like I just keep going..And that's no B.S....zap!
Reply:I do the same as Zap most of the time. Also just a steady travel with the torch at times.Airco Ac/Dc 300 HeliwelderMillerMatic 200 (stolen)Miller Maxstar 150STLMiller AEAD200LE (welding and generating power) Hobart MIG
Reply:Originally Posted by DeepPenetrationIs that the way the textbook teaches?  I never read about it, I learned on the job.  My welds look really good, but I guess I should learn the correct technique, the way people who actually went to school for welding do it.
Reply:your wire  keeping in weld pool is better, why this is , because you guarantee  as protect your thread with your gas protectionLast edited by denlow60; 10-04-2013 at 02:55 PM.
Reply:Originally Posted by denlow60you wire in keeping weld pool is better, why this is , because you guarantee secrecy as part protects your thread with your gas protection
Reply:Originally Posted by DeepPenetrationHuh?
Reply:I just learned tig a little over a year ago and find stop-fill-move easier.Sometimes I speed up as it gets hot instead of easing back the pedal - I think because that's what I do with stick, mig and oxy/fuel.Dave J.Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:If your technique produces consistently nice beads, you're rarely dipping the tungsten, and you're comfortable ... then you're using the correct technique ... for you! Practice, practice, practice!http://www.facebook.com/LockhartMetalArthttp://www.facebook.com/pages/Grumpy...44306259043484
Reply:Originally Posted by grumpycricketIf your technique produces consistently nice beads, you're rarely dipping the tungsten, and you're comfortable ... then you're using the correct technique ... for you! Practice, practice, practice!
Reply:For HF stuff, I move the torch continuously and dab the filler. I'm not good enough that I can slow down or stop and still keep the bead consistent. I keep the filler rod maybe 10-15 degrees at an angle, with the tip always in the gas coverage and just dab, dab, dab, and move my hand all the way to the end.
Reply:Originally Posted by akabadnewsFor HF stuff, I move the torch continuously and dab the filler. I'm not good enough that I can slow down or stop and still keep the bead consistent. I keep the filler rod maybe 10-15 degrees at an angle, with the tip always in the gas coverage and just dab, dab, dab, and move my hand all the way to the end.
Reply:"Proper method" is defined by what works and what doesn't. When it's all said and done it's the weld that matters and it's properties, not what hand you made it using. If you technique is 'wrong' it will show in the weld.Welding/Fab Pics: www.UtahWeld.com
Reply:I use both on fillets depending on what is needed. Rotary table work generally I hold the torch stationary, which mimics the continuous movement as the table rotates. On stationary work I go while pumping current into the root, then stop and add rod to the root, then relax the pedal some to add definition to the bead, and then go and pump current into the root. Repeat until done, but all the while check to make sure you have continuous penetration to the root of the fillet without suckback on the backside. I also make sure the ripples of the bead at the low point are sufficient to achieve compliant throat depth per the weld gage. On CLPs groove welds I just go continuous. Going and stopping I get inconsistent penetration. On sanitary tube welds I don't know how to do anything other than continuous travel. Ok, I am having a hard time understanding my own words. End of day and I am getting loopy, so I better stop.Weld like a "WELDOR", not a wel-"DERR" MillerDynasty700DX,Dynasty350DX4ea,Dynasty200DX,Li  ncolnSW200-2ea.,MillerMatic350P,MillerMatic200w/spoolgun,MKCobraMig260,Lincoln SP-170T,PlasmaCam/Hypertherm1250,HFProTig2ea,MigMax1ea.
Reply:Originally Posted by shovelonEnd of day and I am getting loopy
Reply:Originally Posted by weldermikeSo then whats up with your avatar? That's a cup walk. Not yours?
Reply:Originally Posted by denlow60your wire  keeping in weld pool is better, why this is , because you guarantee  as protect your thread with your gas protection
Reply:Originally Posted by shovelonI use both on fillets depending on what is needed. Rotary table work generally I hold the torch stationary, which mimics the continuous movement as the table rotates. On stationary work I go while pumping current into the root, then stop and add rod to the root, then relax the pedal some to add definition to the bead, and then go and pump current into the root. Repeat until done, but all the while check to make sure you have continuous penetration to the root of the fillet without suckback on the backside. I also make sure the ripples of the bead at the low point are sufficient to achieve compliant throat depth per the weld gage. On CLPs groove welds I just go continuous. Going and stopping I get inconsistent penetration. On sanitary tube welds I don't know how to do anything other than continuous travel. Ok, I am having a hard time understanding my own words. End of day and I am getting loopy, so I better stop.
Reply:I use both techniques. I tend to use a steady motion and dab the filler on thinner stuff and stop, penetrate, fill, move on thicker stuff.
Reply:Originally Posted by akabadnewsThe picture is mine, walking the cup on an 8" pipe. When I said I'm not good enough, I meant freehand. Flat plate and thin material. High freq stuff is not my thing at all. Though my definition of "not good enough" might be passable for some people. Give me some 2" heavy wall and I can walk the dog around it until it's dead. Carbon steel mostly. Haven't gotten to weld any exotic stuff besides stainless.
Reply:Originally Posted by weldermikeI'm a dumb dumb!  Sorry guys as you have probably seen in the past reading comprehension is not one of my strong points.Originally Posted by CEPMay be old age is creeping up on you, your eyes are starting to go looking at that small screen on your phone. I'm looking at a 24-inch monitor, need a 50-inch!
Reply:Originally Posted by weldermikeNo bud I was born dumb