vertical 7018

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ive been oing alot of vertical welding laately in he shop, what ive noticed is for 7018 is welding downhill creates a much better uniform even weld with good ripples, but when im welding uphill i tend to have just nasty welds with metals driping all over ther place and a big gap at the top hole at the top if i havent blown through yet. any advice on what im doing wrong? or is downhil perfectly okay?
Reply:Need some info first.Size rod, amperage, thickness of material.What are you welding, long verticals or short 2" welds?7018 is not recommended for vertical down that I know of.  To make that work I'd guess you have the amps hot and are moving fast.Dave J.Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:I believe there is a recent post around here that involves 7018 downhill.  I believe it was on a pressure vessel??? Could b wrong there but regardless 7018 downhill is 99 % of the time a no no as it is very easy to trap slag in the weld with this method.  I imagine maybe undercut would b a problem as well but don't know for sure.  I've never attempted 7018 downhill, this is just wat I've pickup up around the internet. I'm sure some other folks will come along and give you a more in depth answer as to why it typically shouldn't be done.
Reply:Swamp my guess is that you haven't yet learned to read the puddle if you are having issues with vertical up. POst up picts of you weld along with as much info as possible on rod size, amps, machine used, material thickness and prep ( if any) and we'll try to help.Vertical is what usually separates those than CAN from those that CAN'T weld. I often have students who can run beautiful welds in flat and horizontal using "timing patterns", but they crash and burn when they get to vertical because they haven't really learned to read the puddle yet. Your comment on drippy welds makes me think you are doing the same thing, but I'd need to see a few welds to know for sure. I've done numerous vertical up stick threads on the subject if for some reason you can't post picts, that you can go look at if you want..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:I was mistaken, it is used down sometimes.http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...ical-down-7018Post #18Don't shoot the messenger Dave J.Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:More often than not, people learning to weld vertical up with 7018 who are getting globs of metal falling out of the joint, just can't read the puddle like DSW mentioned.  Either they're overheating the plate and can't move quickly enough, or what I usually see, is that they misinterpret the slag flowing out from under the puddle as molten weld metal, and then start moving too quickly and get into a panic.
Reply:Dave that's the thread I was refering to. Had a hard time searching for it.  Kudos.  It should b noted that the fella in the thread linked was backgouging as part of the process.  Swampwelder, it sounds to me like maybe your not holding long enough at the toes of your weld, spending to much time in the middle, or not moving fast enough for your amperage.  As an intro to welding vert up, might I suggest watching jody from weldingtipsandtricks.com. he mostly does tig  videos but has some good stuff for stick and mig  as well.  You can youtube welding tips and tricks, go to welding-tv.com for visit the previously mentioned site.  His videos have been a big help for me.Last edited by ct1811; 10-18-2013 at 01:12 PM.
Reply:Also are you weaving or running stringer beads? Are you attempting open root with a 7018? Because that's just silly. For 1/8" 7018 a good range is between 105-115 amps. For 3/32" it's between 80-90. These ranges work for stringer beads or a weave pattern. Do not long arc. Push close enough to feel contact with the tip of the rod and the base metal, then back off a hair. Straight in up to a 10 degree push angle works best. I think tolerance allows up to 15 degrees but then you start having issues when you get to the top of the plate and undercutting the corners. Listen to DSW. I recall reading somewhere that he is/was an instructor. He may have better ways of explaining things to you than the majority of us.
Reply:Originally Posted by akabadnewsAre you attempting open root with a 7018? Because that's just silly.
Reply:Originally Posted by CEPOpen root testing with 7018 is getting very popular now a days.
Reply:I'm going to have to try it out.I've "patched" a hole I blew out in a 6010 root with my 7018 hot pass well enough (it was for a weld test.. didn't sneak by ).
Reply:Originally Posted by StonagegraniteOpen root 7018 up ? Your pic was pipe do you use the same land and gap?
Reply:Originally Posted by CEPThat was 6-G, up hill. A heavy 1/16 to 5/64-inch land, used a 5/64-inch drill bit for the gap. 3/32-inch 7018 run on DCEN about 65 to 70-amps for the root.
Reply:Originally Posted by Paddypowerwere u just dragging the rod uphil or were u weaving it up..??
Reply:Originally Posted by CEPLittle up & down movement. If the key hole gets too big to handle, point the rod back on already deposited metal. If the gap closes up on you point the rod forward to cut the gap open. If everything is going along great, just point the rod straight in. You don't want a whole lot of movement. Or you'll get porosity.
Reply:I thought I had pictures of vertical up 7018 open root plate, but I must have lost them. Here is an over head open root plate with 7018. Attached ImagesDon’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Originally Posted by SupeMore often than not, people learning to weld vertical up with 7018 who are getting globs of metal falling out of the joint, just can't read the puddle like DSW mentioned.  Either they're overheating the plate and can't move quickly enough, or what I usually see, is that they misinterpret the slag flowing out from under the puddle as molten weld metal, and then start moving too quickly and get into a panic.
Reply:Thanks CEP I will be tryin that out next week, I don't want the moderators to think I'm just a boy.
Reply:Originally Posted by StonagegraniteThanks CEP I will be tryin that out next week, I don't want the moderators to think I'm just a boy.
Reply:so what ive gtten out of this, dont weld with 7018 downhill, and try use a better rod angle, and if im going up turn the amps down? and i mostly do butt welds and fillet joints with 3/32 and 1/8.quick question. i bought a welder not to long ago and it came with a box of bohler (i thimk thats the name) 7018 and they are so much smoother to run then ones youd typically find at lowes or napa. do they still sell them?
Reply:I've seen Bohler 6013 on the web somewhere, and a few lowhy too. A quick google search seems to show the company is still active, so I would say yes.However, it's a European company. So ordering them, you'd probably have better luck trying a euro welding supply website. To me, not worth the extra expense vs buying Excalibur or Fleetweld.
Reply:bad news thats true
Reply:Bohler has got some really nice 6013 (I think? could have been 6010 as well). Google for Bohler Primafixe. They weld as smooth as molten butter.
Reply:Bohler USA has HQ right here in Houston,  I think you can get most anything if you can wait for it to get to youExperience is something you get right after you need it
Reply:ill look into that. a local welding supply store sells lincoln fleetweld and excalibur. gonnna try them first. gotta go buy a new stinger and ground for a engine drive a recently aquired.I prefer the tweco stingers. I usually get them online. Fleetweld and Excalibur are industry standards. Good product. Unless you're very particular.
Reply:yeah im tired of slag included lowes and napa 7018 rods, 6013 and 6011 are okay from those sources, but tacks are welded over the crown is what need to be pretty or else i never hear the end of it from everyone on the farm.