Milwaukee Dry Cut Saw: How did I ruin the blade and which blade should I buy next?

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I have a Milwaukee Dry Cut Saw and the blade is shot after only about 50 cuts of 1/8" mild steel.  I read bad reviews on this blade before I purchased the saw and tried to really take care of this blade.  I never forced the saw, never made many multiple cuts without letting the blade cool and used cutting oil on every cut.  What happened?  Or is this just a really poor blade?  What blade should I buy next?  I'm debating on whether or not to just to purchase an abrasive saw since I can buy one for almost the cost of the dry cut blade alone.  At this rate, $3 a cut is expensive!  Thanks for the help.
Reply:what size blade is it?Dynasty 200DXPassport plus w/ spoolmate 100victor 315c oxy/(act and prop)Miller digital elitemilwaukee power tools
Reply:14" with 1" arbor.
Reply:What's the teeth per inch on the blade? I'm wondering if it's too coarse for the material being cut.......Mike
Reply:Hey BDB76,I use the Freud Diablo 14"/ 72T/ C7 blade from Cripes' Distributing. I believe other members here also get these blades from them as they are very reasonably priced. I average 1600 cuts before sharpening is needed on most of the material I cut(flat/angle/square) & have done 3" solid round stock with these blades with no effort. Here's the site I get my blades.Dennyhttp://www.cripedistributing.com/-c-...page=2&sort=2aComplete Welding/Machine/Fab. ShopMobile UnitFinally retired*Moderator*"A man's word is his honor...without honor there is nothing.""Words are like bullets.... Once they leave your muzzle, you cannot get them back."
Reply:It's maddening to tear up a blade on one of these things.  I've ruined 2 so far.  I bought an Italian made blade on Ebay for less than the Milwaukee blade.I'm not an expert, but I think the blade will last longer on thicker material.  More metal means that it's able to absorb more heat.  Also, you want to avoid cutting straight down on a flat piece of metal.  If you can position the work so you can start on an edge or corner, it will cut a lot better.  If it seems that the blade is just spinning and spraying out sparks, that's bad.  Change your setup, if possible.America Needs AMERICA'S Oil!!!"Global warming is the greatest scam in history ...There is no run away climate change. The impact of humans on climate is not catastrophic. Our planet is not in peril."--John Coleman, Founder of The Weather Channel
Reply:I just have to ask if it is a DRY CUT saw that you are using it on???   CUT OFF saws (fiber abrasive blade) turn too fast to use a dry cut blade on.. . .-- fredLincoln 180C MIG
Reply:Mrmikey, it is the stock blade which is 72 tooth I believe.  Yorkiepap, I'll try those blades.  Steve45, I'll try your suggestions.  I too notice that it really struggles to get a bite on the flat section of a cut.  I wonder if the cutting oil making things worse?  Fredf, yes it is a dry cut saw.
Reply:check  your clamping that is the cause of most problems with cutting.
Reply:I ruined the original blade on my Milwaukee dry-cut a lot faster than I should have. It was mostly by inadequate clamping of the work piece. I bought the blades mentioned above from Cripes Distributing. I've done a lot of cutting on 2x3x.120 steel tubing and it works awesome!Miller Syncrowave 180SD
Reply:Just curious, which way did you have you material oriented?
Reply:In my case, I was cutting thin tubing making an exhaust system. I didn't tighten the clamp enough and the tube moved while cutting and I lost a tooth.I also think the Milwaukee blade is not as good as the Diablo..Miller Syncrowave 180SD
Reply:I have a similar saw, but cheaper.......it is the MasterHand (Tractor Supply brand) 14" Dry Cut saw; $50 when TSC was clearing them out!!!   I have cut tons of metal (steel and aluminum) with the stock blade, and it still works awesome.  I have never used any cuttin oil on it....kept everything dry.  the thickest I have cut has been an 8" long piece of 3/8" flat plate.  to cut that, I had to lay the stock flat on the table and cut.  this is about the worst way to cut with this saw.....you really want to come down through an edge so that the blade isn't starting on a flat section.  Even still, the saw powered through it.  Of course, I also let the saw do the work; I barely use any pressure on my cuts.when this balde wears out, I intend to get the Freud blade.  all my other saws use freud blades.
Reply:maybe your blade over heated because the oil trapped heat as it's a dry cut blade and air cooled my thoughtsLincoln 225 Tombstone,Miller Big 20,Hobart 180,150' Argon,A/D hobart hood 22 Ton Log splitter,79 F350 dump eats 4.75 TONS and still turns cutters,grinders,And a  Hypertherm POWERMAX 30
Reply:you can get that Milwaukee blade sharpened and teeth replaced. I do it all the time. I have 4 Milwaukee blades in rotation and they work great.  Ive had each blade resharpened at least 4+ times.If you read the manual, you'll see diagrams of how to place the blade, clamps and work piece together. They do not want the blade to contact the metal being cut in the middle, that will dull the blade very fast.When i have cut 3x3 material at a 45*, the placement of the blade in relation to the 3x3 is in the middle and i can tell the blade goes dull after finishing that job.overall, its a good blade. i use the 72 tooth almost exclusively. i have a 90 tooth but rarely use it as its for thin material. but the 72 works great in 16 gauge tubing so i dont bother switching blades.