wire mesh trailer gate

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Dear welders, i would like to make a wire mesh gate for my trailer. I already have 1 1/2x 1 1/2 inch angle iron to make the fram. What ga wire mesh do I need to use and any other information you can think of? Second question, is there any scrap yards in central KY that I can rummage through? Thank toy for any and all advice.
Reply:Originally Posted by john michaelDear welders, i would like to make a wire mesh gate for my trailer. I already have 1 1/2x 1 1/2 inch angle iron to make the fram. What ga wire mesh do I need to use and any other information you can think of? Second question, is there any scrap yards in central KY that I can rummage through? Thank toy for any and all advice.
Reply:Dear wornout, that you for the information, it is greatly appreciated. AS u can tell im not a welder. Retired locksmith. Thank you
Reply:You welcome.I hate working with the stuff, BUT it's got it's uses so I had to learn a few tricks.For MY uses, I discovered quickest way for me to cut it wasn't oxy/fuel or plasma torch, but thin cutoff wheel in 4-5 grinder.I also learned to cut it at the diamond intersections when possible to give me more metal to weld with when attaching to frame angle irons. Where when cutting, i'd try to save the whole intersection and not half of it.If you have a mig welder, then it's best to tack it at EVERY point/intersection to frame....start by setting your welder volts and wire speed to ga thickness of mesh, and then tweek as required...otherwise you will blow/burn off the mesh strands/intersections
Reply:Plasma has a so-called setting for cutting stuff like expanded metal.  Lemme tell ya............it's just plain old marketing.  It works like crap.OA will cut it sorta, mostly you gotta melt it with the torch, and it leaves globs that have to be ground down before you can even fit the metalRazor wheel The sub mariner guy is correct.Speaking of   I discovered the sciatic nerve this week.  Bed rest, ju ju beads, incantations, and bed rest didn't help.  But the brewski's have doggone sure helped  K'kins allowed me to move Beer Nite up one day."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Originally Posted by farmersammSpeaking of   I discovered the sciatic nerve this week.  Bed rest, ju ju beads, incantations, and bed rest didn't help.  But the brewski's have doggone sure helped  K'kins allowed me to move Beer Nite up one day.
Reply:Always found a chisel, section of 1" plate and an engineer's hammer worked about as quickly and precisely as any other method. Sambo, forget the juju beads and quit playing the hair stylist if you want relief from that back pain.EDIT: BTW, if the OP is building the rear gate out of expanded metal, might think seriously about hinging the middle to lower the height of the gate for less wind resistance going down the road.Last edited by WyoRoy; 04-05-2015 at 06:20 PM.Lincoln PrecisionTig 275Miller 251Miller DialArc 250Bridgeport millHossfeld bender & diesLogan shaperJet 14 X 40 latheSouth Bend 9" 'C'Hypertherm 900Ellis 3000 band saw21"Royersford ExcelsiorTwo shops, still too many tools.
Reply:Yes Sir in that hinged gate. Folks learn just how much drag a tall gate generates at 60-70 MPH...At first, you thinking wind passes thru it easy, but it don't seem to at speed.Sam, I figured you was fixin to throw yer back out after that intimate hair dye stuff....Best thing for you now is just lay up...Forget the beer tho, what you need to help you heal is fruit juice.The best way to get your fruit juice and keep you prone is a very special blend of apple juice.....Crown Royal makes it and it's available without prescription.
Reply:Sam drink a lot of prune juice .  I mean really a whole lot of it .   All the quick moves will help you work the soreness out.   Sorry you slipped at the beauty shop.............Laying jokes aside hope you get to feeling better.  When a man is down in his back he can get in some terrible pain.  Been there and done that.
Reply:BTW, a hinged gate of expanded metal doesn't cut wind resistance in half-only by about 25%....The lower half of hinged gate now has two layers of webs to catch wind, but it still beats one piece gate.
Reply:Agree with getting the raised expanded as opposed to flat expanded.  Expanded metal is cheap and getting something a little heavier than what you think you need won't break the bank....and won't break your back either if you fit the ramp with some of those nifty helper springs sold by Buyers Products and others.I will add that you can indeed cut expanded metal very cleanly with a torch....oxy-acetylene is my preference due to pinpoint preheating but I'd still give it a try if all I had was oxy-propane.  Split it right down the middle of the intersections, whether the "long way" or the "short way" (take a look at the diamonds and you'll see what I mean).  Most of the time you can get the cuts so clean that each half of the cut intersection remains intact and weldable.  The secret is a small tip, proper pressures, just enough preheat, and quick travel.  It's actually a very fast process, fast enough that I wouldn't bet on a cutoff wheel being faster.Finally, unless you HAVE to have a gate, you might consider removable ramps that can store on the floor of the trailer to completely remove wind resistance.  I made a couple from leftover 12" Grip-Strut stair material and used them in place of the cantankerous sail of a gate that came on my 5' x 8' trailer.  I just notched the Grip-Strut to fit over the original 3/4" hinge pin that the gate used to use.  They were light enough to toss into the back of the Jeep Cherokee I pulled the trailer with, or would slide in underneath lawn mowers or beside motorcycles.  After I built them, I never put the gate back on until I sold the trailer years later.Last edited by tbone550; 04-05-2015 at 08:49 PM.
Reply:Yup, I done the same...I had removed the gate to hinge it in middle, then ended up just using pair of alum ramps and left gate off...The only problem with ramps, is folks tend to steal them.Sam, while you layin there,I want you to consider this:Men of our age really need to pay attention to the angle of our dangle.When you discover it is at 90 or more degrees from vertical down, you need to share the workload getting it back in stowed for sea position....Old sea salts don't hesitate to call all hands on deck when they got up too much sail for the conditions. For landlubbers, the call to duty usually goes, "come here Baby, I need your help"
Reply:Seeing that I've rebuilt every brand of crap landscape trailer for local lawnmowers... Do not hinge the gate. Do not use flattened expanded metal.  Do not use anything less than #9 (10 gauge) unless you plan on rolling nothing heavier than a push mower across the ramp.  Don't skimp on the ribs, I wouldn't space them any wider than 12" on center. Depending on the width of the gate I would put 2 ribs about 6" apart under the area where wheels of equipment would ride up. If you can, just have them shear the size you need. That's the only thing faster than a 4"-5" grinder with a thin wheel. Lastly, weld EVERY bond (the "X" ) around the perimeter and maybe every other bond crossing a rib.Capt. RyanRyanMiller Multimatic 200 tig/spool gun/wireless remoteMillermatic 350P, Bernard/XR Python gunsMiller Dynasty 350, Coolmate 3.5 & wireless remoteCK WF1 TIG wire feederMiller Spectrum 375 XtremeOptrel e684Miller Digital EliteMiller Weld-Mask
Reply:You guys are great. Thanks for helping a dumb a** out. I have a friend that i hope to do the welding, I havent asked yet. [I]m just in the thinking stage right now.
Reply:Now THERE is an answer.
Reply:Originally Posted by wornoutoldwelderBTW, a hinged gate of expanded metal doesn't cut wind resistance in half-only by about 25%....The lower half of hinged gate now has two layers of webs to catch wind, but it still beats one piece gate.
Reply:Originally Posted by DrilldoMaybe. I bet it helps more than 25%. It isn't just the surface area the height of the thing and the relationship to the tow vehicle come into play. Those tall ramps catch a lot of wind but something low even if it is solid doesn't so much.
Reply:I think I used 3/4" #9 raised expanded on my stuff.  Add framing under where ever the tires are going to drive (lawn mower, atv, etc.)  If possible, allow the gate to fold flat, hinge in the middle, or even be removed when not needed.  I noticed a 5 mpg difference pulling an empty trailer with the gate up vs. down at 55 mph.My name's not Jim....
Reply:Originally Posted by BoostinjdmI think I used 3/4" #9 raised expanded on my stuff.  Add framing under where ever the tires are going to drive (lawn mower, atv, etc.)  If possible, allow the gate to fold flat, hinge in the middle, or even be removed when not needed.  I noticed a 5 mpg difference pulling an empty trailer with the gate up vs. down at 55 mph.
Reply:wornout what would you recommend. Maybe removable ramps?
Reply:When I built my brother a trailer to carry his Harley on(the "Hog Hauler"), I built a full width expanded steel ramp that slid under the trailer on a track when stowed for travel. It worked great!!
Reply:thank you tool junkie
Reply:I was going to start a thread on refurbing a trailer, but this one seemed in line with what I'm doing.   I have a 5x8 northern tool trailer and I'm looking to add some things for carrying materials.  I'm a hobbiest so I don't carry much at a time.  Typically a a couple sheets of 16ga or 11ga, and a few sticks of angle or tube.  My supplier cuts the 24 foot sticks in half for me and I lay them down in the trailer and off the corner by the full height ramp gate.   Has anyone modified their small trailer for carrying steel material?  Please post pictures or ideas on what you did.  I was thinking of cutting a door way in the expanded gate so the tube and angle could sit flat in the middle and extend out the back with a flag.  I also considered a material arm that would attach in a tube in the back with a Y on it to lay the material on.  Much like guys do with a pick up truck.
Reply:Originally Posted by john michaelwornout what would you recommend. Maybe removable ramps?
Reply:Originally Posted by wornoutoldwelderStart calling it 'expanded metal sheet', and the guys at the scrap yard will understand better what you looking for.Here is a link for you to use to determine how it's sizes are described when dealing with suppliers.    The link will also help you select the best thickness and hole dimensions for expected loads.What ever you do, I'd avoid getting the flattened stuff for a trailer gate because it's too slippery.http://www.gratingpacific.com/expand...roduction.htmlFor general duty trailer gates, most folks use 3/4" X 9.....remember to provide plenty of framing inside the gate spans or the mesh will stretch and sag from loadsMy current trailer has solid diamond plate ramps. They are really durable and I like them but they do get slick in the Ice.