Which stainless rod for my cheapo patio equipment.

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Background:1). I've never welded stainless steel (ss) before.  So, I have a Home Depot (cheapy) stainless BBQ AND... A propane patio heater.  Both have the same and extremely thin ss sheet metal components they're made of.  Both are magnetic (martenistic stainless).  2) mig or tig is NOT an option.Task:Both are flimsy and really poorly built.  I've had to replace many sheet metal screws due to the Santa Ana winds blowing over my heater several times, thus ripping out some original screws.   There are some areas that could be strengthened and I don't want to drill and use new screws etc....  I'm very lazy when it comes to this stuff and I'd like to just throw some SMAW beads on certain strategic places of the heater and BBQ and be done with it forever.  It doesn't have to look pretty, but I don't want it to rust.  This is why I'm NOT using the regular 6010/6011, 6013, 7018 electrodes.  So, I can't figure out if I should use 3/32" 308xx or 309xx or (fill in the blank) _______ electrodes.  I DID google and SEARCHED and I read that since my stainless is magnetic, I could use an electrode made for austentic ss.  I just can't narrow it down as to which one I need for patio furniture stuff.  I know that the 309's are the "go-to" rod for joining ss-to-mild steel, but what about my "magnetic patio equipment" which is ss-to-ss?  Non of the welds will be actually heated by either the bbq's or patio heater's propane burners.  The welds will be made on the body and legs of the items described. (Read: no heat will ever hit these welds).I must add that I can and do weld successfully very thin sheet metal with 6013 DC- often.  I'm not worried about burn-through on these patio "princesses."   Since this is a Q&A based forum, I thought an expert here could easily tell me which electrode I need (because I want to weld it) for this project.   Everything I'm reading on the web is talking about austenitic  and NOT martenistic ss.  Please help, which rod do I use?A BIG THANK YOU if you stuck with me to the very end of this post!Last edited by MoonshineMetals; 11-14-2013 at 02:02 AM.
Reply:for home use, I'd say use 309L or 309LTi, preheat 300°F, slow cooling. This steel is very sensible for hydrogen, so either use tig or mig solid wire, no rods, and clean very thoroughly (any surface contaminants, grease, oil, ..).If you insist on rods, either buy them vacuum or dry them in your home oven accoridng to the manufacturer's specs.BTW, if your SS is magnetic, it can also be ferritic SS (which shouldn't be preheated, and be welded low-amps and very cool), or even austenitic in special circumstances. But either way, for this application I would use 309 and be done with it.
Reply:Originally Posted by kingnerofor home use, I'd say use 309L or 309LTi, preheat 300°F, slow cooling. This steel is very sensible for hydrogen, so either use tig or mig solid wire, no rods, and clean very thoroughly (any surface contaminants, grease, oil, ..).If you insist on rods, either buy them vacuum or dry them in your home oven accoridng to the manufacturer's specs.BTW, if your SS is magnetic, it can also be ferritic SS (which shouldn't be preheated, and be welded low-amps and very cool), or even austenitic in special circumstances. But either way, for this application I would use 309 and be done with it.
Reply:Hate to break it to ya but me thinks this is not going to work at all..Thin stainless and a stick machine = BIG holes in no time....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:I would braze it using bronze rod and stay-silv flux.
Reply:Cheap stuff like this I would just pop rivet with stainless rivets.Air rivet guns are awesome Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:Thanks guys, I appreciate the opinions here.  I don't want to spend money on a rivet gun, when that money could be better spent on stuff like tobacco and booze.  The thin sheet metal issue with stick is always an issue.   It can be problematic as I have welded paper thin (almost anyway) with 6013's and DC- with very low amps.  In fact, I do that type of welding almost exclusively.  But,,, I'll take Zap's word for it that stainless rod is different than 6013 and burn through would be my biggest problem.  So, I guess I'll stick to bailing wire, JB weld compound and duct tape!   Good as new!  I just wanted  to see y'alls experience and/or recommendations for  ss and stick welding.  I'm glad I asked here before running out and spending $60 on some 3/32" 309L electrodes.Last edited by MoonshineMetals; 11-15-2013 at 02:44 PM.
Reply:How thin is it?     Did you measure?Real world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Well, I played around with 3/32" 309 on some stuff a little thinner than 1/8.  It was tough, but after some practice piecs it went okay.  No burn through but not too pretty.  Seems like if you want some booger welds just to secure your stuff, it could work.  Just weld fast enough not to burn through, but slow enough to grab metal on metal.  I know u said that MIG isn't an option, but if you could get mig, that's what I'd use.  Mig it, hit weld with wire wheel to clean it up, then slap on some rattle can clear coat to prevent fast rust.  If it starts to rust, a quick hit with the wire wheel again, clear coat and good for another year. Otherwise, if you're bored, get the 309L and try it. "Hey I didn't come to look and learn, I came to turn and burn.... If I can't light up, I'm gonna light out!"-JodyIdealarc 250 "Fatman"MM 252MM 211 "Little boy" Victor Torches