Rod Ovens:

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I'm putting some thought to the purchase of a shop oven. Any favorites out there and what size recommended for a single, or two man maintenance and repair type operation? Thanks,SlobPurveyor of intimate unparalleled knowledge of nothing about everything.Oh yeah, also an unabashed internet "Troll" too.....
Reply:I think it would be helpful to know how many lbs of rod you go through. There are ovens that handle a fair amount for around $130 on ePray that hold 10 lbs, the next jump seems to be around $250 and hold 50 lbs. Past that, the sky is the limit. I made one that holds 250 lbs for about $200.Regards,RobGreat Basin WeldingInstagramBlue weldersRed weldersMy luscious Table DIY TIG Torch cooler
Reply:Originally Posted by Robert HallI think it would be helpful to know how many lbs of rod you go through. There are ovens that handle a fair amount for around $130 on ePray that hold 10 lbs, the next jump seems to be around $250 and hold 50 lbs. Past that, the sky is the limit. I made one that holds 250 lbs for about $200.
Reply:Originally Posted by 7A749I have a Phoenix 400 lb round one. Think I paid a couple hundred for it like 8 years ago.Had planned to leave it powered on, but as little welding as I do, it just sits in the basement with rod in it. It's always stayed relatively dry so I never bothered plugging it in.
Reply:Most rod, depending on where you are, is just fine in a can. I keep mine covered, I also live in Utah, a fairly dry area. If you live with high humidity, then you might consider an oven for low hydrogen rod, such as 7018. Most will chime in that the oven is only necessary for strict code work, to which I am inclined to agree. For rod such as 6010, when I started welding about 35 years ago,  some of the old timers would dip their 6010 in a bucket of water. They said it laid down better. I have no idea if that is true or not, but mentioned to compare what the rod oven does. Living in an area with a lot of farmers I see 60XX rod that has been sitting out for years and years and the farmers still run it and their welds keep cracking. (more from their poor welding than the rod I suspect  [no disrespect to them or any other farmer, it's more important to them to keep their stuff running than to worry about a perfect weld]Then there's the cost of keeping it running.  Electricity aint cheap. 1000 watts running day and night that can add up and if you are not paying for the use of the oven with the need of "dry" rod. Then, if you buy your 7018 in 10lb cans, you can open one when you need it and worry even less about if it's dry or not. One last thing, I have heard others say that 7018 rod runs different when it's hot as opposed to room temp.  I can't speak for them but I can't tell the difference between newly opened rod or "hot" rod and I have run a fair amount of it over the years. I hope that helps.Regards,RobGreat Basin WeldingInstagramBlue weldersRed weldersMy luscious Table DIY TIG Torch cooler
Reply:PM sent amigo.Old enough to know better, young enough to try it anyway.
Reply:Originally Posted by SlobDo you keep a single type rod in it, or does anything store in it acceptably well? Does it hurt to dry any rod at all?Thanks,
Reply:Originally Posted by Firemanmike69Only low hydrogen rod needs to be in the oven and really only for code work. Also as Robert said I also dip my 6010 rods in water before using them they seem to run nicer that way
Reply:I probably have eight of the "Rod Guard" cannisters which are new for different rods and I guess I'm kinda looking to consolidate, but I could simply build a wheeled and portable rack for that. I have differing cases for 1/8th and 7/32nd in 7014 as example. What I'm hearing is that 7018 is really the only rod which would require any type of specific treatment or heating to ensure it's quality of which is easily controlled with fresh 10 pound tin per the job. I won't be working to any code, only repair of farm machinery and such in a field, (as example). With 7018 rod, I've only used "Atom Arc" brand from Esab as that is what the welding supply store readily carries and recommends. I really don't use much rod at all but am looking to move into it more. I can't remember if I've ever ran 6010 or not, but have 6011 a lot and cannot carry a good looking bead, (cosmetic only) for crap, but I understand that's more the norm with that rod. Also most of what I've worked with has been 1/8th on used steel which some is crusty......SlobPurveyor of intimate unparalleled knowledge of nothing about everything.Oh yeah, also an unabashed internet "Troll" too.....
Reply:I've seen a lot off older shops with an old refrigerator with the compressor not wired in and a light bulb on all the time.  A 25 watt bulb will generate enough heat for rods....cost free on dump day.Measure with a micrometre, mark with chalk,  cut with a torch.Never force anything...just get a bigger hammer.RoyOld Airco buzz box approx 1974Lincoln mig pack 15Lincoln 175 square wave1954 9" south bend lathe
Reply:Originally Posted by Robert HallIm just going to have to give that a try.
Reply:According to code, 6010 rods need 3-7 percent water in their flux to be effective. If the rod is kept in an oven the flux will become brittle and work ****ty.
Reply:Maybe a little off topic, but not really... how do you mobile guys store your rods (7018,11017, etc) on your trucks?  Do you keep an oven and plug it into the generator at a job site then plug it in when you get home?  Seems like a lot of hassle,  but I'm sure there are mobile guys on here doing code work.  Maybe foreman keep them at the site?
Reply:Our mobile trailers have small rod ovens thay hold a box when we do structural code, trucks have cylinder type rod ovens thay hold maybe a box
Reply:Keep an eye on Craigslist.  I bought a Phoenix Dry Rod 50 pound oven for $40. in nice shape.  Only needed for 7018 or similar lo-Hy rods."USMCPOP" First-born son: KIA  Iraq 1/26/05Syncrowave 250 w/ Coolmate 3Dialarc 250, Idealarc 250SP-175 +Firepower TIG 160S (gave the TA 161 STL to the son)Lincwelder AC180C (1952)Victor & Smith O/A torchesMiller spot welder
Reply:Originally Posted by SlobI'm putting some thought to the purchase of a shop oven. Any favorites out there and what size recommended for a single, or two man maintenance and repair type operation? Thanks,
Reply:I would get 1 or 2 of the 50 pound ovens. They don't take much more to run than 10 pound ovens. The only thing you really need an oven for is 18 or 28 series rods.
Reply:Originally Posted by M J DI would get 1 or 2 of the 50 pound ovens. They don't take much more to run than 10 pound ovens. The only thing you really need an oven for is 18 or 28 series rods.
Reply:We keep our oven in the trailer loose underneath a shelf, surprisingly never get damaged rods
Reply:Some of them run on AC or DC which is nice.
Reply:Definitely look on craigs list. I found my 300lb Phoenix for maybe $150. It needed a new cord, and I painted it. Then, just recently, I found two 50lb'ers at a great price."Where's Stick man????????" - 7A749"SHHHHHH!! I sent him over to snag that MIC-4 while tbone wasn't looking!" - duaneb55"I have bought a few of Tbone's things unlike Stick-Man who helps himself" - TozziWelding"Stick-man"
Reply:Originally Posted by johnrbauerSome of them run on AC or DC which is nice.
Reply:After reviewing all of the input on this thread and agreeing the only rod really needed to be kept in controlled storage is the XX18, and XX28 varieties, I'm going to pursue a 50# unit with dividers as suggested.This afternoon with welder in tow I was at a Menard's store and looked at this rod: http://www.menards.com/main/p-2288288-c-10163.htm but didn't purchase any as the containers were loosely and poorly wrapped in cellophane which in no way was air tight. After finishing there, I took the welder by a muffler shop to show them what and how I wanted the new exhaust routed for next week. Then off to the LWS to exchange tanks for the cutting outfit mounted to the welder, then to the other LWS to purchase both 1/8th, and 3/32nd 7018 "Atom Arc" electrode in sealed cans. The LWS is almost but not quite twice in cost as the Menards store for the 1/8" rod but I'd wager much higher in quality. Menard's does not carry the smaller diameter. Now off to pester a gent about an oven.....Thanks for all the help; really appreciated.SlobPurveyor of intimate unparalleled knowledge of nothing about everything.Oh yeah, also an unabashed internet "Troll" too.....
Reply:I made a rod oven out of an old Aluminium food box x 2nd WW. I put a wire shelf in the bottom and underneath i put a 40 watt light bulb. A couple of strands of wire across intermittently to hold the rods in the cabinet when i open it and thats it. Not fancy or anything but it does dry the rods.
Reply:Originally Posted by dinkum daveI made a rod oven out of an old Aluminium food box x 2nd WW. I put a wire shelf in the bottom and underneath i put a 40 watt light bulb. A couple of strands of wire across intermittently to hold the rods in the cabinet when i open it and thats it. Not fancy or anything but it does dry the rods.Anyone use one of these 10# rod oven variants?  http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us...olnElectric%29Considering similar for a micro shop.  Looks to be $140-150 on eBay.  Have no need for a 50lb cooler, but rather a requirement for maintaining a 10lb stack of 7018s in optimal condition.Appreciate any feedback from users."Discovery is to see what everybody else has seen, and to think what nobody else has thought" - Albert Szent-Gyorgyi
Reply:Originally Posted by ManoKaiAnyone use one of these 10# rod oven variants?  http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us...olnElectric%29Considering similar for a micro shop.  Looks to be $140-150 on eBay.  Have no need for a 50lb cooler, but rather a requirement for maintaining a 10lb stack of 7018s in optimal condition.Appreciate any feedback from users.
Reply:Originally Posted by MinnesotaDaveI have a small one (15lb) but it is not thermostatically controlled.My 50lb version is.I did not like the rod elevator connected to the lid for getting out a fist full and reloading - it's a pain and they get tangled after a while - lid is always in the way.I prefer my larger one with a flip door.On my small one I cut the lid free of the rod so I can access and load easier.Sounds like little trivial stuff - but the dang lid always being in the way was irritating.
Reply:@ MN Dave - thanks.  Thought the same thing about that lid to bottom cap interface.  It would be excised, for sure.  Don't want to be playing "7018 PickUp Styx" everytime accessing the container.  Ha!"Discovery is to see what everybody else has seen, and to think what nobody else has thought" - Albert Szent-Gyorgyi
Reply:Originally Posted by ManoKai@ MN Dave - thanks.  Thought the same thing about that lid to bottom cap interface.  It would be excised, for sure.  Don't want to be playing "7018 PickUp Styx" everytime accessing the container.  Ha!
Reply:No mention of the cost of electricity to run a rod oven...
Reply:Buy a broken kitchen oven and put a light bulb in it that's all u need to keep rods dry, it works great and plenty of room, 110 bulbSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:Originally Posted by farmer37No mention of the cost of electricity to run a rod oven...
Reply:The 60 Watt element is misleading.  I have a similar 10# oven. It draws 6.5 Amps at 122VAC or approximately 800 Electrical Watts/hr. If it was only using 60Watts at 122 VAC then that would be about 0.5 Amps. I would be able to use a cell fon charger to heat up at 0.5 Amps.I dont know if it continually draws 800 Watts but 6.5 Amps is about 12 cents per hour around here.