Recommissioning MillerMatic 200 MIG

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Hi all, I've got a few questions about getting a MIG machine I bought at a company auction back into service. First, since this is my first post I'll start by saying that I've done some light oxy-acetylene welding and brazing and some stick welding before, but I've never done any MIG, and don't know anything about MIG equipment.Back on topic, I bought a MillerMatic 200 JD-Series MIG welder from my company in a silent auction for like 75 bucks, and I need to get it working again. I've heard good things about this welder and so I assume it would be worth it to fix it up.  My questions:1. It's missing the gun. I know that a replacement from Miller will practically break the bank, and I've been told that I can use a gun from like Parweld, either Tweco- or Binzel-style, although I'm not really sure what that means exactly.  Anyone want to explain this a little more in detail?2. Someone cut the power cord about a foot from the welder housing, so I went and bought a new cord to match (red, black, white, green; stranded 8 or 10 gauge, I can't remember exactly which, I'll have to check) and a 4-prong dryer plug from Home Depot.I wired it up, but when I cracked the case and wired it inside, I could only find terminations for two hot and one common.  Any ideas as to where my ground goes?  There doesn't seem to be a spot to wire it to the chassis anywhere...3. I need a tank and all the fittings/regulator pieces. I figure you guys could give some good suggestions for this. Also, I don't know what gas I should get for my applications, which would be primarily farm-related mild steel, and some autobody/chassis repair and maybe later some SS fabrication.4.  The welder says on the side that it is "Spoolmatic equipped"  What exactly does that mean?Here's a link to the owner's manual from Miller's website for reference.  If anyone can help me get this thing working again, I'll have my mother send you cookies.Actually I was just kidding about the cookies.  But I'd really appreciate any help you guys can give me.
Reply:Originally Posted by mrjbaconHi all, I've got a few questions about getting a MIG machine I bought at a company auction back into service. First, since this is my first post I'll start by saying that I've done some light oxy-acetylene welding and brazing and some stick welding before, but I've never done any MIG, and don't know anything about MIG equipment.Back on topic, I bought a MillerMatic 200 JD-Series MIG welder from my company in a silent auction for like 75 bucks, and I need to get it working again. I've heard good things about this welder and so I assume it would be worth it to fix it up.  My questions:1. It's missing the gun. I know that a replacement from Miller will practically break the bank, and I've been told that I can use a gun from like Parweld, either Tweco- or Binzel-style, although I'm not really sure what that means exactly.  Anyone want to explain this a little more in detail? Someone will say Bernard gun, there is also Tregaskis.2. Someone cut the power cord about a foot from the welder housing, so I went and bought a new cord to match (red, black, white, green; stranded 8 or 10 gauge, I can't remember exactly which, I'll have to check) and a 4-prong dryer plug from Home Depot.I wired it up, but when I cracked the case and wired it inside, I could only find terminations for two hot and one common.  Any ideas as to where my ground goes?  There doesn't seem to be a spot to wire it to the chassis anywhere...You need 2 hot wires and ground. The white wire is not needed. A 3 pole plug is normal in-house. Nema 6-50 is real common. http://www.stayonline.com/reference-...ght-blade.aspx3. I need a tank and all the fittings/regulator pieces. I figure you guys could give some good suggestions for this. Also, I don't know what gas I should get for my applications, which would be primarily farm-related mild steel, and some autobody/chassis repair and maybe later some SS fabrication. 75/25 or "C25" which is 75% argon & 25% CO2 is basic steel mix. Stainless will require a tri-mix.4.  The welder says on the side that it is "Spoolmatic equipped"  What exactly does that mean? It will accept a "spool gun" typically used for aluminum welding.Here's a link to the owner's manual from Miller's website for reference.  If anyone can help me get this thing working again, I'll have my mother send you cookies. Oatmeal Cookies are very nice!!Actually I was just kidding about the cookies.  But I'd really appreciate any help you guys can give me.
Reply:The plug I have wired to the cable right now is NEMA 14-50.  Overkill?  I wish that at the time that I had bought the receptacles I had already opened the case and looked at it, then I would have only gotten the 3-conductor power cable, and the 6-50 male and female plugs.Another question:  In the manual it says the machine can be wired for 230v or 460v.  Are there any advantages or disadvantages to one or the other? Originally Posted by tanglediverIt's not nice to tease us about cookies...
Reply:There are a number of variations of that model; I don't remember what changes occurred when. I have a JK series  (IIRC) which has cables with plugs to change polarity, has the spoolgun connector, and also has the spot-stitch weld option in the upper right area.The "Spoolmatic Equipped" means it has a connector into which a spoolgun cable plugs; this is a small 'gun' with its own built-in spool holder, drive system, nozzle, and trigger which works well for the softer aluminum wire and is used instead of the normal gun.I don't know the Parweld brand of gun you mention, but Tweeco is another company which makes equipment including MIG guns; my unit came used with a Tweeco #2 gun. Maybe the Parweld is a copy of the Tweeco or Binzel but made in China?By the way, I like Ginger Snaps!
Reply:Originally Posted by mrjbaconHi all, I've got a few questions about getting a MIG machine I bought at a company auction back into service. First, since this is my first post I'll start by saying that I've done some light oxy-acetylene welding and brazing and some stick welding before, but I've never done any MIG, and don't know anything about MIG equipment.Back on topic, I bought a MillerMatic 200 JD-Series MIG welder from my company in a silent auction for like 75 bucks, and I need to get it working again. I've heard good things about this welder and so I assume it would be worth it to fix it up.  My questions:1. It's missing the gun. I know that a replacement from Miller will practically break the bank, and I've been told that I can use a gun from like Parweld, either Tweco- or Binzel-style, although I'm not really sure what that means exactly.  Anyone want to explain this a little more in detail?>>>>Look for a Bernard 300 amp centerfire mig gun on ebay.  You can get them delivered for $100.2. Someone cut the power cord about a foot from the welder housing, so I went and bought a new cord to match (red, black, white, green; stranded 8 or 10 gauge, I can't remember exactly which, I'll have to check) and a 4-prong dryer plug from Home Depot.I wired it up, but when I cracked the case and wired it inside, I could only find terminations for two hot and one common.  Any ideas as to where my ground goes?  There doesn't seem to be a spot to wire it to the chassis anywhere...>>>>Ground is on the bottom on case about 1/3 front near the grill.  There should be a screw.3. I need a tank and all the fittings/regulator pieces. I figure you guys could give some good suggestions for this. Also, I don't know what gas I should get for my applications, which would be primarily farm-related mild steel, and some autobody/chassis repair and maybe later some SS fabrication.>>>>C-25 Gas.  75% argon, 25% CO2.4.  The welder says on the side that it is "Spoolmatic equipped"  What exactly does that mean?>>>>It has a 4 prong plug in the front of the welder.Here's a link to the owner's manual from Miller's website for reference.  If anyone can help me get this thing working again, I'll have my mother send you cookies.Actually I was just kidding about the cookies.  But I'd really appreciate any help you guys can give me.
Reply:Originally Posted by Oldiron2There are a number of variations of that model; I don't remember what changes occurred when. I have a JK series  (IIRC) which has cables with plugs to change polarity, has the spoolgun connector, and also has the spot-stitch weld option in the upper right area.The "Spoolmatic Equipped" means it has a connector into which a spoolgun cable plugs; this is a small 'gun' with its own built-in spool holder, drive system, nozzle, and trigger which works well for the softer aluminum wire and is used instead of the normal gun.I don't know the Parweld brand of gun you mention, but Tweeco is another company which makes equipment including MIG guns; my unit came used with a Tweeco #2 gun. Maybe the Parweld is a copy of the Tweeco or Binzel but made in China?By the way, I like Ginger Snaps!
Reply:Congrats on the new machine mrjbacon and if it's operational you got a steal of a deal for $75 even though you have to buy a gun for it.  I agree with Crawler's recommendation for a Bernard 300 but I also have a monster Tweco 400 for and the original Miller GA-20C on mine.As for input voltage pros/cons question, 460v is an industrial voltage and simply operates at a lower amperage than 230v (normally residential high voltage) for the same output.  At 230v you'll want to set it up on a 50A dedicated circuit using the proper size conductor if you don't have one already - which it sounds as if you do.  You should find that input power cord ground wire conection on the main chassis frame down in the general area of the stabilizer (see pg 16 of the unit manual) as Crawler indicated.For a spool gun, your unit is a second generation MM200 which means it still used the direct connect Spoolmatic 1 spool gun and provided for weld output polarity change via the external cable plugs/sockets to allow using solid (gun positive) as well as flux cored (gun negative) filler wires.  You can find Spoolmatic 1 spool guns on eBay from time to time and should expect to pay anywhere from $300-600 for a working unit.You can also use a slightly newer Spoolmatic 3 version but will have to change out the SM-3 14-pin plug for an earlier 4-pin in order to use it on your machine or make up/buy a much more expensive adapter cord ($100 special order Miller Kit #042236).Or you can go the route of a WC-24 weld control Miller #137549), the above adapter cord and a current Spoolnatic 15A (15') or 30A (30') spool gun.  The WC-24 and Spoolmatic 15A/30A can be had off eBay for decent prices occassionally but you'll still need the adapter cord which I have yet to see anywhere but from Miller or make it yourself.I run an original direct connect Spoolmatic-1 on mine but did have a 're-plugged' SM-3 at one time until I traded it for another SM-1 to a member that needed a 14-pin SM-3 for his machine.Let us know how you make out on getting it up and running.Chocolate chip.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:Originally Posted by mrjbaconMine is a JD-series, and it's got a pair of jumpers on the front of the machine, although the jumper contact on one of them should probably be replaced.
Reply:Originally Posted by duaneb55Congrats on the new machine mrjbacon and if it's operational you got a steal of a deal for $75 even though you have to buy a gun for it.  I agree with Crawler's recommendation for a Bernard 300 but I also have a monster Tweco 400 for and the original Miller GA-20C on mine.As for input voltage pros/cons question, 460v is an industrial voltage and simply operates at a lower amperage than 230v (normally residential high voltage) for the same output.  At 230v you'll want to set it up on a 50A dedicated circuit using the proper size conductor if you don't have one already - which it sounds as if you do.  You should find that input power cord ground wire conection on the main chassis frame down in the general area of the stabilizer (see pg 16 of the unit manual) as Crawler indicated.For a spool gun, your unit is a second generation MM200 which means it still used the direct connect Spoolmatic 1 spool gun and provided for weld output polarity change via the external cable plugs/sockets to allow using solid (gun positive) as well as flux cored (gun negative) filler wires.  You can find Spoolmatic 1 spool guns on eBay from time to time and should expect to pay anywhere from $300-600 for a working unit.You can also use a slightly newer Spoolmatic 3 version but will have to change out the SM-3 14-pin plug for an earlier 4-pin in order to use it on your machine or make up/buy a much more expensive adapter cord ($100 special order Miller Kit #042236).Or you can go the route of a WC-24 weld control Miller #137549), the above adapter cord and a current Spoolnatic 15A (15') or 30A (30') spool gun.  The WC-24 and Spoolmatic 15A/30A can be had off eBay for decent prices occassionally but you'll still need the adapter cord which I have yet to see anywhere but from Miller or make it yourself.I run an original direct connect Spoolmatic-1 on mine but did have a 're-plugged' SM-3 at one time until I traded it for another SM-1 to a member that needed a 14-pin SM-3 for his machine.Let us know how you make out on getting it up and running.Chocolate chip.
Reply:Originally Posted by mrjbaconWhen I run the conduit and cable for the plug for the welder, and install the new breaker in the shop panel, am I supposed to use a 50A split-terminal breaker, or do I use a 25A double-pole breaker?
Reply:Originally Posted by duaneb5550A double pole.  One that pulls power from each incoming service leg.
Reply:Originally Posted by mrjbaconThanks for the advice on the gun, I think I'm going to try and find the Bernard that you and Crawler mentioned, and forget about the Spoolmatic for now.  It seems that the only thing you'd really need it for would be to weld aluminum and right now I don't have a need for that.When I run the conduit and cable for the plug for the welder, and install the new breaker in the shop panel, am I supposed to use a 50A split-terminal breaker, or do I use a 25A double-pole breaker?
Reply:Originally Posted by mrjbaconOh, ok.  Boy, I hope I don't have to add a new panel or change out the old one to fit it...
Reply:I'd put in a recommendation for an Abicor Binzel ("abicor") gun for two reasons, one they're far nicer than most of the tweco/bernard stuff, two, there's a lot of miller equipped guns on ebay right now from a couple sellers....I got a killer deal on an Alpha 3 gun (inside $100 shipped) because it had a miller backend which I promptly switched out for a Euro backend to fit my Esab.
Reply:Originally Posted by duaneb55If your breaker box is full you can double up on four 115V circuits by using two dual outlet breakers (two breakers in one single breaker width) to open up two slots for your 50A, 230V double breaker.Just make sure the 50A is pulling off both incoming service legs.  I've seeen some breaker boxes that limit the number of 230V breakers that can be installed by having a section on each side that all breakers pull off the same leg so that a double breaker would be the same 115V on each output thus still only 115V and not 230V.  Make sense?Let me know if you need a photo of what I'm talking about.
Reply:Originally Posted by mrjbaconYou like this one a lot?  Have you had any problems with it?  Anyone else comment on this gun?  I have heard that Abicor makes good stuff, I'll have to check Ebay for this one as well.
Reply:Originally Posted by mrjbaconYou like this one a lot?  Have you had any problems with it?  Anyone else comment on this gun?  I have heard that Abicor makes good stuff, I'll have to check Ebay for this one as well.
Reply:From what I've taken from all of your suggestions, it seems like there's a lot of guns out there that would work with my power supply, but it's still confusing trying to find the right one.I know that I need one with a Miller back-end... but other than that and the brands, how do I know if it will be compatible?  For example, what amperage rating do I need, and what size electrode should it be rated at for the power that my power supply puts out?I looked on Ebay for the Bernard and Abicor guns and it seems like they're all 320 amps or higher for the Abicor guns, what should I be looking for as far as amperage rating and electrode size range?EDIT:  Reread some of your posts, I see that some of you use guns rated for 300-400 amps.  I'm looking at this one right now.  It's not the Alpha line, but it has the Miller back-end and it's priced pretty nicely.  What do you guys think?Last edited by mrjbacon; 05-30-2010 at 11:47 AM.
Reply:Well, as was pointed out earlier, a Q300 Bernard (300amp) gun is pretty typical for a MM200 or machines in the 200-250amp range but the Q200 would do just fine as well.  Consumables can be readily obtained for Bernards rather than having to 'stock up' on the Abicor product and I assume you're in the states and not abroad.  Even though it too would work, a 400amp gun is pretty bulky and you may not be pleased with its size for everyday use.  You may find an original GA-20C but if I were looking to buy a new gun it would be the bullet proof Bernard.  Just my $.02.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:I probably wouldn't give more than half the asking price but if your a stickler for originality, heres the obsolete GA-20C http://cgi.ebay.com/Miller-GA-20C-Ob...item5ad90d17f7 that was standard issue on the MM200.  Same gun that's currently on my MM200 and being that it's new will last you for years and consumables still readily available.  Just the same, new Q200/300/400 Bernards can be had for less.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:Yeah, I saw that one too, but I don't really care if it's all original.  Whatever works is fine with me.  I'll try to find something rated between 200 and 350 amps, and if you say it's moderately difficult to obtain consumables for the Abicor, I may as well look for the Bernard.  I'm probably going to run conduit and cable, and install the socket and breakers early this week.  If I remember, I'll bring my camera and snap a few pictures of the shop and the welder.
Reply:Since the cord was cut at the shop "usually meaning somethings wrong with unit" I think I would try and borrow anything that is missing to see if it works or not and easily fixed if not before investing too much into the new gun.Anything sugar free
Reply:Good point Charley.mrjbacon, once you get it powered up you can jumper between the gun trigger receptical sockets #1 and #2 which should activate the wire feed motor, contactor and gas valve if everything is working correctly.  If it fires off, you can also check the wire feed speed control to see if it's controlling the feed motor speed correctly or not.Your unit will look slightly different than my first generation MM200 but your gun trigger receptical (arrow)will be the same.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:What should I use to jump the terminals with, anything?  Or should it be a fairly substantial piece of wire?  And to Charley, I also thought of that as well, but when I asked someone about it, I was told that due to insurance liability reasons they do this whenever they sell equipment to a private entity, so maybe it is non-working, but maybe it just needs rewired.  I'm staying optimistic.
Reply:I'm not a fan of the Binzel triggers.  Don't know if they are all the same or not, but the one at work had a really long plastic trigger.  We broke 3 of them before the boss let me make one out of aluminum.  That fixed it.My name's not Jim....Originally Posted by mrjbaconWhat should I use to jump the terminals with, anything?  Or should it be a fairly substantial piece of wire?
Reply:Originally Posted by BoostinjdmI'm not a fan of the Binzel triggers.  Don't know if they are all the same or not, but the one at work had a really long plastic trigger.  We broke 3 of them before the boss let me make one out of aluminum.  That fixed it.