"flat" trailer

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Still working out my design for the vendor trailer I've mentioned on two recent posts.  Essentially, it will be a flatbed 36" wide (excluding tires) and just under 8' long (without tongue).  I'm thinking about using 2x2 3/16 square for the frame and cross members (on 16" centers).  Trailer will have gussets at each corner and cross member.  Going to buy spindles, hubs, etc. from Northern Tool and have a local shop make my axle.Attached to this frame will be a sales counter.  Essentially a set of custom-built cabinets with countertops on them.  I plan on bringing the edge of the cabinets down and over the sides of the frame and attaching via bolts.  Do you guys think the frame design I'm thinking about will be strong enough?  My main concern is flexing/twisting of the frame as it is towed.Any ideas/suggestions are welcome!Thanks!
Reply:2x2 3/16 square tubing is wrong material for the job. Think of using 2x4 C-Channel sections instead for the frame and 2x3 channel for the cross members.Do a search here for farmersamm's flatbed trailer build.
Reply:it doesnt seem as it will be holding alot of weight can you change the tubing to 2x5 1/8 or 2x6 to cut down on flex
Reply:I keep thinking 36" is too narrow, especially if that includes your counter and cabinets. I'd suggest mocking up what you have in mind and see if everything fits the way you want it to. On paper lots of things seem to work, but once you have to stand there they don't.I know from experience a 36" wide walkway sound fine. It may even work out in the middle of a yard. However put that same 36" walkway right up against a building and all of a sudden it feels very cramped and people often simply walk on the grass rather than the concrete walkway.Get yourself some card board boxes and mock up what you have in mind. Many home hallways are wider than 36". See if your design fits in the hall and how cramped it feels. I'm betting if you have walls and a roof of some sort, you may find you need the trailer to be wider, even if it's simply that the cabinets and counter are out over the wheels and you have a 3' walkway down the center..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:There won't be any walls around or close to this kiosk.  It is meant to be used in open-air events outside or in large convention centers where you have a space allotted to you.  I'm basing the dimensions off our sales counter in our cookie store.  Anything deeper and things get too wide to exchange product/money with customers.  I plan on keeping the trailer fairly low to the ground so that we simply stand behind it to work.Thanks for the feedback.  Looking into different materials now.I do like the idea of mocking things up.  Once I get my utility trailer repaint wrapped up I will mock things up.
Reply:If flex is your concern then tube is the propper choice. If you are in the rust belt then 3/16" wall is the choice too. I never recomend 1/8" wall tube because tearing in high stress areas is a common problem. Depending on the weight your going to be dealing with and the design of the cabinets your choice is good. 2x3x3/16 tube would be my choice for some extra strength the long way. A drawing of what your end product is would be the only way to get real useful advice. Without that everyone is just guessing.Yeah, I know, but it'll be ok!Lincoln Square wave 255Miller Vintage mig30a spoolgunThermal Dynamics Pacmaster 100xl plasmaSmith mc torchEllis 1600 band saw
Reply:Drawings. You need drawings. A picture will really help you figure out what you need. Also, what about making the entire trailer the cabinet frame? So, instead of a steel frame with the cabinet sitting on it, make the cabinet itself a big steel frame.Ian TannerKawasaki KX450 and many other fine tools
Reply:I'll put a drawing up this evening after work.I've thought about building a metal frame and then "laminating" it with wood to make the exterior.  I was hoping to save on the cost of the metal by building the cabinets and then attaching them to the frame.  That is why I am wanting to get the frame as solid as I can.I've been woodworking for 25+ years and can build rock solid cabinets.  I'm confident in my welding skills as well, but d@#n confident in my woodworking skills
Reply:A trailer frame with sides as high as the cabinets so the top of the cabinets will attach sounds like the way to go to me. Keeping wood from sagging if you just attach to the bottom will be tough. But as I and others have said, it's all guesses til we see what you want it to be finnished.Yeah, I know, but it'll be ok!Lincoln Square wave 255Miller Vintage mig30a spoolgunThermal Dynamics Pacmaster 100xl plasmaSmith mc torchEllis 1600 band saw
Reply:I'm thinking about putting a "lip" on the bottom of the frame for the cabinets to sit on.  This would provide support for the wood.  The front will pretty much be a solid sheet of 3/4" plywood.  The sides will be 3/4" plywood and the back will be a combination of 3/4" plywood and 3/4" solid wood face frames and plywood doors.  All of this will be glued and screwed, mortise-and-tenon type joinery depending on the scenario.I may put an outside frame of metal in place just to attach the cabinetry to.  Hopefully the drawing will clarify a few things.
Reply:OK guys.  Here is a rough sketch of what I am thinking.  I've erased some stuff that isn't needed.  A couple of notes:1. There will be a solid bottom in the kiosk with at least one shelf for storage.2. The acrylic display cases will come off during transportation.3. There will not be a fixed roof.  We are going to get one of those collapsible tents with our advertising on it that we will put up and over the kiosk and workers.4. I haven't decided on what size tires yet, but I want to keep the COG pretty low so kids can see in the display cases.5. It will be wired for 110 for accent lighting, etc.Thoughts, inputs, suggestions, etc. are welcome!
Reply:You don't want a 3500lb axle.  Unless your cabinets are filled with bricks.Also, if you want it low, you will want either an adjustable torsion axle or a drop axle.My name's not Jim....
Reply:What if all those wood cabinets get wet? You can store it inside and use it under a tent, but what about driving in the rain? If I inderstand your plan, no one will work inside this thing, only around it. And just your stuff will be inside?. Boostinjdm is right that 3500lb springs will be too stiff, but you can still use that axle and get the better bearings if you like just use a lighter spring to soften the ride.Yeah, I know, but it'll be ok!Lincoln Square wave 255Miller Vintage mig30a spoolgunThermal Dynamics Pacmaster 100xl plasmaSmith mc torchEllis 1600 band saw
Reply:OK, so it sounds like a 2000lb axle may be enough.  That will help with the costs some.I've been thinking about the wood myself.  I'm thinking about making the floor out of galvanized sheet metal I can get at the local fabrication shop (they do all kinds of HVAC work).  Then wrap the thing like crazy with tarps if I have to tow it in the rain.  Other ideas have been build a metal frame and then wrap it in sheet metal using rivets to attach it.Also, would it be better to flip the orientation?  I'm thinking the weight distribution might be better for tongue weight, etc..Thoughts?
Reply:Have you added up the weight of the material for the build and the weight of what you will haul? Deffinately do that as well as you can to get the best idea of the finnished weight you can get. You can buy springs to match that weight pretty close so you get the best ride. It may not be in your budget, but how about a steel or aluminum shell where the sides hinge on the top and open up to be shade while in use? That will keep things dry while traveling, but will take a bit more skill to build.Yeah, I know, but it'll be ok!Lincoln Square wave 255Miller Vintage mig30a spoolgunThermal Dynamics Pacmaster 100xl plasmaSmith mc torchEllis 1600 band saw