I need some air compressor plumbing advice.

admin

I posted pics of my newly acquired 7.5 horse, 24 cfm @ 90 psi. compressor in denreps' off topic post for auctions, sales, billy goats,  etc.So, I've been doing a bit of research about the best way to plumb it into my 18' by 24' itty bitty garage and I'd like some feedback. 1. I really have no need for elaborate piping and lots of taps.2. If I do run any pipe I will probably use black iron. I will not use pvc, but I might be talked into copper( ungodly expensive now! ).3. I want dry air. I will be sand blasting, running air tools, but not likely to do much, if any, painting. I have buddies for that. 4. Air intake outside or inside?  I have lots of mudwasps here to build nests in the filter.5. I have heard about some type of cooler/condenser/dryer???, that does not require lots of pipe and sloped water drains. Works on the intake side maybe???I will be calling my local autobody pro supply house this week for their advice, but I thought I'd pick the brains of the vast welding web knowledge base as well. Thanks in advance.
Reply:I;am no pro.  In my shop I ran 2 lines out of the comp. up to the main with a trap on the bottom.  the reason for the 2 lines is to slow air down, so the water gos to the trap.  this seem to work pretty good. I have sandblasted and run my air tools with no water. If you like I can try and post some pix tomarrow. Oh.if you mount your air comp. to the floor DO NOT TIGHTEN ALL (4) BOLTS. this can cause the tank or motor bracket welds to brake.  Leave 1 lose/snuge ,even if you have it mounted on rubber. The vibration needs to go somewhere. Good luck daye
Reply:I use two inline filters at the tank and just run hose to where I need to go. I run air tools, a plasma cutter, paint and sandblast with no water problems.The difference between art and craft is the quality of the workmanship. I am an artist.
Reply:With the size of your garage you shouldn't need the expense of running pipe throughout. I have mine setup like Jolly Roger describes his and don't have an issue with water problems either. I do however use a disposable screw on water filter at the regulator of my spray guns just in case water does get through. DaveI am what I am, Deal with it!If necessity is the Mother of Invention, I must be the Father of Desperation!
Reply:An air compressor creates alot of heat compressing the air. The hot compressed air holds alot of moisture. In order for the water to "fall out" of the compressed air it needs to cool down. This is the reason for after compressor coolers, wether it be absorbent or more commonly refrigerated type. For a small shop, I would recommend putting seperators after the tank, but allow some time (room) for the compressed air to cool down first. This will give you a good "bang" for the buck. There is really no need for the costly "after compressed" components in an application this small.    And as always when you plumb the system incorporate same down legs for any extra condensate to accumulate and be drained.Tim Beeker.
Reply:I found a couple refrigerated air-dryers some years ago, and use one when running the plasma extensively or when using my blast cabinet much. I haven't seen that much difference in performance of either, really, but the humidity here isn't  high compaed to other parts of the country. I do get water from the dryers though.I also just use hoses in the garage but only have a smaller-tanked portable unit I built from parts inside.I also have two larger (also portable) compressors outside.
Reply:I have used a few different brands of water traps with compressors and they all seemed to do the job, even one from (blush) Harbor Freight. I preferred one that automatically dumped the water but I've forgotten the brand name. Now I do like Jolly Rodger and use hoses. I keep a 50 footer rolled by the compressor and a spare 50' so if I want to get further I can. A little tip. Harbor Freight's air hose isn't nearly as good as that dryer was.
Reply:There is a link to an excellent system diagram in this recent thread:  http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=22814As mentioned, put vibration isolators under the feet and don't tighten them.  I bolted mine down tight and broke the motor mount after 2 years.I put an automatic drain on mine, and I HIGHLY RECOMMEND IT!America Needs AMERICA'S Oil!!!"Global warming is the greatest scam in history ...There is no run away climate change. The impact of humans on climate is not catastrophic. Our planet is not in peril."--John Coleman, Founder of The Weather Channel
Reply:daddy/Jarret,Follow the link in Post#8, and from there follow the link to the TP Tools website and the diagram/PDF of suggested airline layout.+1 on the no PVC airlines!!!!The use of metal pipe airlines around the shop is not just to distribute the air without having rubber hose(s) all over the place, but also to let the air cool and thus condense out the water vapor.  Either all by itself, or in combination with filter(s) at the end of the run(s)  and/or right before the tool.  So, from the compressor the air goes into the storage tank(s), and then into the metal piping, and then a filter, and then some rubber hose, and then another filter (maybe one of the small ~$10 inline dessicant units), and then the tool.Re: the water 'trap' on the intake side.  That is possible, but not likely.  Most of the time, the water traps/filters/removers are on the compressed-air side, not the intake side.And at 7.5hp/25cfm, you could put a pretty good amount of water into the compressed air!Watch out for freezing a trap/filter/drain in the winter.  Condensed water in the compressed air side + freezing temperature in a PA garage in the winter = possible cracked filter/trap/drain when the water freezes and expands.  The best laid schemes ... Gang oft agley ...
Reply:im hooking up my comp tonight bought two flex hoses from tp tools Attached Images
Reply:Many thanks for the excellent responses. I found something useful in every post.I may do something "in between" the full setup, as in the pdf link , and just traps at the tank , but I am encouraged to hear JR report no moisture problems with that setup in his humid location.It is great to get to get feedback from guys whose opinions I trust.Whaddayaknow!... a thread with no drama, just constructive discourse. This place still works!
Reply:Maybe I'm a week late... but this is my experience..I recently put in a 5HP/10 CFM w/33gal receiver unit.  (220v Craftsman purchased slightly used - twin alu. cyl, with oil bath.)  I installed this under the cellar stairs in my residence and plumbed 36 feet of 1/2" type L copper to the attached garage. The compressor is on a wooden pallet to keep it out of the "flood zone" and I extended the drain plug out to the side for easy reach.I used 24" of flexible hose from the compressor to the copper line to absorb vibration.  (If this isn't done something will break for certain.)  The line goes straight up to the ceiling and has a condensation trap on the bottom.  (see photos below) The first horizontal run accross the ceiling drops 1/8"  in ten feet in the same direction as airflow.  There is one verticle run of about 8 inches downwards in the same direction as airflow that does not have a drain on it..  But the outward horizontal run from there drops more than an inch in 10 feet and has the second drain leg where it turns up through the cellar ceiling and enters the garage through the wall.Why did I use copper instead of black iron? Black iron is more prone to scale on the inside of the pipe, when new and with age and moisture in the air moving through it.  It costs about the same for small jobs, and copper is far easier to work with.Copper prices are high, no doubt.  So is the black pipe. And the 1/2" threaded iron ells and tees are far more pricey than the 1/2" copper ells and tees.  For the nearly 40 feet of pipe the cost was an almost even trade.  Assembly: Had I used the black pipe I would have needed to purchase a pile of just-right lengths of pre-threaded nipples or procure (or rent) a threading die and handle for 1/2" pipe.  The copper was easy to assemble - cut to length with a $5 common tubing cutter, ream the burrs and clean the ends with emory tape, coat with flux and assemble.  I assembled almost the entire run before lighting the torch.  This made sweating the joints an easy process - Heat and sweat and move to the next joint.  The whole project took all of a Saturday morning and about $100.  Some blurry photos follow.(if you use copper use Type K or L drawn tube, Do not use type M.)-Mondo Attached ImagesMember, AWSLincoln ProMIG 140Lincoln AC TombstoneCraftsman Lathe 12 x 24 c1935Atlas MFC Horizontal MillCraftsman Commercial Lathe 12 x 36 c1970- - - I'll just keep on keepin' on.
Reply:One more blurry photo and a comment about intake air and driers.Just use local inside air for intake.  You aren't drawing 10,000 CFM per compressor for a dozen compressors at a ski area snowmaking system or some other gigantic industrial need.  Though my compressor is in the cellar and cellars are notorious for being damp, I have a dehumidifier which is set at 40% on a shelf over the clothes washer less than 8 feet away.  If you have this installed in the shop local inside air will be fine.You can put the filter/separator/drier right at the receiver discharge. But put a filter at least at the point of use to capture loose piping scale (iron or copper).  This is where your regulator should be.  If there is a long piping system put a second water separator at the point of use also.  This will capture any additional condensation that forms as the air flows through the system.I have only a single multi-function water/oil separator /filter at the point of use.  The bulk of the oil and condensation drains from the bottom of the receiver, a very small amount appears at the first verticle leg drain trap. In six months I have yet to see any oil or condensate appear at the second drain tap or from the bottom of the separator/filter on the wall in the garage.  Either this gadget doesn't work for squat or there is very little moisture condensing in the system.  My pneumatic tools and my plasma cutter are working great! -Mondo Attached ImagesMember, AWSLincoln ProMIG 140Lincoln AC TombstoneCraftsman Lathe 12 x 24 c1935Atlas MFC Horizontal MillCraftsman Commercial Lathe 12 x 36 c1970- - - I'll just keep on keepin' on.
Reply:May I add one thing to this discussion...something that is overlooked a great deal. Use plenty of "unions" in your design. The worse thing ever is to be forced to back trace disassemble an air line system if something were to happen. I'd put a union near every tee that is on the supply side of filters/regulators, which will save you from cursing up a storm if a problem does arise. I have had some experience with a few choice words in the past. It's much easier to take only a section of your airline out than to be forced to do more disassembly. I think it's safe to say that for every union you install, you should also have a ball valve as well.Also, as the photos above show....always put a 12-18" section, with a ball valve, at the lowermost section of vertical  drops. This will help with draining moisture from your lines before they get to your filters/tools.I'll take a few pics tonight and show how it should look when finished. Attached ImagesLast edited by kepe; 08-11-2008 at 06:28 PM.
Reply:Thanks for the additional info, fellas. I finished the install this weekend. Here's what I did:I used iron pipe. I had most of the fittings already, it is well proven, and I got lucky and didn't even have to dig out the pipe dies.Had no luck finding a flex hose sat. am so I just ran hard pipe, I will get around to changing it, but with the tank lagged thru rubber isolator pads into  2x6 boards that are not attached to the concrete, and with the iron pipe elled so it can move a bit in all horizontal directions, the vibration is minimal. This puppy runs smoooth!I used 3/4" for the stand pipe, the same dia. as the outlet, with full port ball valve, up to the ceiling, where I reduced to 1/2". I ran 18' across the ceiling, downhill @ approx. 1/4" per ft. with a plugged tee at each joint for possible future use.When I hit the other side of the garage I  dropped a drain straight down to the floor, and tapped off the top of the trunk for my supply to the reg/ water separator that I picked up. Of course it has a drain, and is elled uphill off the drop to further reduce the chance of water getting to it.I treated myself to some nice quick couplings. Full bore Devilbiss. These are the nicest I have ever seen. With air regulated down to 120 psi., and charged lines ,you can connect and disconnect these with a light push, and all you get is a little pop, Made in Germany, very nice stuff. For reference as to the bore of the male quick coupler in the third pic, the inlet pipe to the reg. behind it is 1/2", and the street ell to the left is 3/8" ips.kepe, In the first pic, you will notice a union part way up the stand pipe. It was not initially in the designI had the whole thing done, and was charging it up when I heard a noise that sounded like air blowing... The second 90 deg. ell from the outlet of the tank, at the bottom of the 3/4" stand pipe was cracked. I used some old fittings and didn't check them all well enough...Being the quick thinking, and not interested in taking apart several hours worth of work type of guy that I am, I located my trusty milwaukee sawzall and disposed of the offending ell with no damage to either of the pipe threads. I did go ahead and dig up a union though. Much easier next time...I have not used it much yet, but I did try some sand blasting and it still catches up and cycles off. The only place I've drained any water from is the tank itself.Thanks for looking, and thanks for the help. Attached Images
Reply:PLEASE put a piece of flexable hose between the compressor and the wall pipe.Tim Beeker.
Reply:Nicely done, and as tnjind recommends....get some flex! I had mine made up at a industrial hose place for about $20.....well worth it! I also think your runs are plenty long. Unions are your best friend, in terms of air line maintenance. If you ever want to run a reel, also put separators and filters just prior to entering the reel....I learned that one that hard way, by having to rebuild a air ratchet. It was full of moisture, which then rusted. It was a lesson learned!You will love it and you will most likely add additions to it in time....best of luck!Last edited by kepe; 08-11-2008 at 11:56 PM.
Reply:Not hijacking your thread Daddy, but I do have pics of a chiller drier in the projects section going up in 10 minutes. BTW, great thread!!And then, after so much work...... you have it in your hand, and you look over to your side...... and the runner has run off. Leaving you holding the prize, wondering when the runner will return.
Reply:I will get the flex hose, but I HAD to try it out. Kid at christmas type of thing.Now that I have a union in there it will be easy to change out.The guy at the local pro paint supply told me I was fooling myself if I didn't go 25' min. before the first tap, so I said " what the he!!, if i'm gonna do it..." I should be better than that by a few feet . He said the same thing about making sure the air had a chance to cool enough to allow the water to condense.My building is about half underground, and in the spring especially, it sweats inside so much that it looks like you turned a kid loose with a garden hose.
Reply:Run flex or a short piece of rubber airline between the compressor and the piping!!Also, any time you have a vertical pipe run you NEED to have a drip leg.  And you don't have a drip leg on the very first vertical pipe run right by the compressor.Also, I would have made all the pipe runs at least the full 3/4 inch pipe.  Drips legs and their drain valves could be 1/2 inch no problem, but the full 3/4 inch lines would give you better air flow, better cooling, and a little more 'air tank' capacity in the piping (0.5 gallon for 18' of 3/4" pipe versus 0.28 gallon for 18' of 1/2" pipe).  Going to main runs of 1" pipe would get you 0.8 gallons for that 18' run and 1.5 times the surface area versus the 1/2" pipe (for better cooling).  You have some pretty good airflow from the compressor, it would be a shame to choke it with piping flow losses in skinny pipe.  My general sizing scheme is never go smaller in pipe size than what the outlet from the tank is, and preferably go 'up' at least one size in pipe.  Your compressor/tank has a full 3/4" outlet, one size 'up' is 1" pipe.  So main runs of 1" or even 1-1/4" pipe.The garage door clears the pipe across the garage and can still open, right?Looking at the pic, I'd probably run the pipe across the wall above the garage doors instead of across open space.  Also, you have couple of pipe hangers/supports on that long horizontal pipe, right?  And a big mental note, and maybe a sign or two, that the pipe is NOT for use as a chin-up bar or a shop hoist or anything else except as an air pipe.Last edited by MoonRise; 08-12-2008 at 11:49 AM.  The best laid schemes ... Gang oft agley ...
Reply:MoonRise, I will get the flex hose, I promise.The diagram from TP tools did not show a drip leg on the first vertical pipe. I wondered about that, but figured any water would just drain back to the tank. It will be a snap to put one in when I do the flex though.You are certainly correct about the flow losses and increase in capacity with larger pipe, and I did consider that, I even thought about using some 2" just because I have a bit lying around, but this is so overkill for most of my work at home that I decided to make it easy and use 1/2".The garage door is an "interference fit"... the track touches the pipe, the spring does not. It works as well as it did before. That door is on my list. It is a 7'x12', and it needs to be a 9'x10'. I always have 2' of junk along the wall and never need the room on the edge, but could often use a bit more head room. The beacon light on my work truck was installed after measuring the door..The horizontal run is supported with chain at several points from the bottom chord of my trusses.
Reply:Just an update...Installed the flex hose, two wire hydraulic, good for 3000? psi or so.Also added the drip leg. Attached Images
Reply:Ed Mac,I just purchased the Ingersoll Rand compressor that you appear to be using (5 HP, 230 volts). What size wire did you use from the pressure switch?Lin
Reply:its 12 guage good for up to 20 amps
Reply:Originally Posted by daddyI posted pics of my newly acquired 7.5 horse, 24 cfm @ 90 psi. compressor in denreps' off topic post for auctions, sales, billy goats,  etc.So, I've been doing a bit of research about the best way to plumb it into my 18' by 24' itty bitty garage and I'd like some feedback. 1. I really have no need for elaborate piping and lots of taps.2. If I do run any pipe I will probably use black iron. I will not use pvc, but I might be talked into copper( ungodly expensive now! ).3. I want dry air. I will be sand blasting, running air tools, but not likely to do much, if any, painting. I have buddies for that. 4. Air intake outside or inside?  I have lots of mudwasps here to build nests in the filter.5. I have heard about some type of cooler/condenser/dryer???, that does not require lots of pipe and sloped water drains. Works on the intake side maybe???I will be calling my local autobody pro supply house this week for their advice, but I thought I'd pick the brains of the vast welding web knowledge base as well. Thanks in advance.tp tools have lots of info and parts Attached Images
Reply:What is the difference between a separator and a coalescing filter? Is it one or the other? I assume they do different things?Lin
Reply:Just a footnote concerning compressor installs; on the high end compressors, you have to sil fos (purging as you do so) the copper for the warranty to be good. I understand this may not be relevant here but it's worth mentioning. I'd also recommend being very careful with teflon tape installing an air line for a plasma cutter. The smallest piece of Teflon can harm a plasma cutter.
Reply:Coalescing filter...A filter unit that combines three principles to filter out oil aerosols: 1) Direct interception - A sieving action, 2) Inertial impactionhttp://www.pneumatic-source.com/reso...ossary/c.shtml I got ya halfway there HTH
Reply:Ed Mac,Do you have the 3 HP or 5 HP Ingersoll Rand compressor?Lin
Reply:ihave the 3 hp pn# ss3L3 the 5 hp#ss5L5 witch draws 30 amp you will need 10 gauge
Reply:Thanks, Ed. I thought that might be the case.Lin
Reply:I installed an auto drain on the bottom of my tank. (From Harbor Freight of all places)  It unbelieveably has worked great for over 3 years now.   Very simple to install.   It works from sensing changing pressure on the blead off line between the pressure switch & head.  The drain valve spits very briefly every time the compressor comes on & shuts off.IF IT WORKS, DON'T FIX IT2 Lincoln CV-300 / LN-7 GMALinde-VI 253,400 & 450 w/MIG35 feedersCNC Table with Oxweld O/A & Hypertherm 1250G3Lincoln Ranger GXT 250Hobart-MicroWire 300ESAB Heliarc 161ESAB-Mobilemaster 2 CC/CV Feeders& more
Reply:just a note on auto drains find a local school or company that uses an air compressor and ask them to contact you the next time they change one. my dad got a couple free from the maintince department at school because they were changing them and the old one were just going to be thrown away and they were perfectly good valves
Reply:Hi guys,I purchased all my black pipe, elbows, unions, "Ts" and etc today and have loosely laid out how my piping will be mounted on the wall. One question: I have not worked with this pipe before. How do you tighten the unions so that they do not leak air?Thanks!!Lin
Reply:Air or water, makes no difference. Whatever sealant you’re using, spread some on the union face. You are using crescent wrenches?
Reply:Originally Posted by LinHi guys,I purchased all my black pipe, elbows, unions, "Ts" and etc today and have loosely laid out how my piping will be mounted on the wall. One question: I have not worked with this pipe before. How do you tighten the unions so that they do not leak air?Thanks!!Lin
Reply:Here is how I put 60 feet of piping in a 12 foot space in my old tiny garage , no water ever came out of the water seperators at the end of the taps, The auto drain on the bottom left is basically just for sand blasting . The auto drain on the compressor (7.5  IR 80 Gal.) does the rest. I read that anything over 50 foot with 3/4 pipe has very little if any moisture out of the end tap(condensation just cant travel that far in that size pipe) One of the water sperators I have had for years had to be repaired due to dry rot (was leaking)from lack of moisture.The photo was taken in the new building I am leasing , I just added another 20 foot of pipe to get it in the back corner to the right of the picture. Anyone with a space problem, here is your answer if you want to do painting/sandblasting and not worry about water.The tap on the end was for overhead piping, but never used it, the second one from left is non regulated  for blowing things off, and using 1/2 inch air hose for my 3/4 and 1 inch impact guns. The first one is set at 90 Psi  (air tools) the second is set at 30 for paint guns). I used 3/4 galvonized and  leak tested each joint(with a cap)  before adding the next piece untill I was done. Hope this helps some with space problems.   Wrench. Attached Images
Reply:Originally Posted by daddyI posted pics of my newly acquired 7.5 horse, 24 cfm @ 90 psi. compressor in denreps' off topic post for auctions, sales, billy goats,  etc.So, I've been doing a bit of research about the best way to plumb it into my 18' by 24' itty bitty garage and I'd like some feedback. 1. I really have no need for elaborate piping and lots of taps.2. If I do run any pipe I will probably use black iron. I will not use pvc, but I might be talked into copper( ungodly expensive now! ).3. I want dry air. I will be sand blasting, running air tools, but not likely to do much, if any, painting. I have buddies for that. 4. Air intake outside or inside?  I have lots of mudwasps here to build nests in the filter.5. I have heard about some type of cooler/condenser/dryer???, that does not require lots of pipe and sloped water drains. Works on the intake side maybe???I will be calling my local autobody pro supply house this week for their advice, but I thought I'd pick the brains of the vast welding web knowledge base as well. Thanks in advance.
Reply:Originally Posted by wrenchitHere is how I put 60 feet of piping in a 12 foot space in my old tiny garage , no water ever came out of the water seperators at the end of the taps, The auto drain on the bottom left is basically just for sand blasting . The auto drain on the compressor (7.5  IR 80 Gal.) does the rest. I read that anything over 50 foot with 3/4 pipe has very little if any moisture out of the end tap(condensation just cant travel that far in that size pipe) One of the water sperators I have had for years had to be repaired due to dry rot (was leaking)from lack of moisture.The photo was taken in the new building I am leasing , I just added another 20 foot of pipe to get it in the back corner to the right of the picture. Anyone with a space problem, here is your answer if you want to do painting/sandblasting and not worry about water.The tap on the end was for overhead piping, but never used it, the second one from left is non regulated  for blowing things off, and using 1/2 inch air hose for my 3/4 and 1 inch impact guns. The first one is set at 90 Psi  (air tools) the second is set at 30 for paint guns). I used 3/4 galvonized and  leak tested each joint(with a cap)  before adding the next piece untill I was done. Hope this helps some with space problems.   Wrench.
Reply:hi, the fitting that cracked appears to be a cast iron elbow. these are normally 125  pound fittings and not recommended for air. The recommended fittings are black malleable  which is the same as for natural gas. You can get extra heavy fittings also.
Reply:I did mine about a year ago.  Cheaper for me (and easier) to do it in copper.  Used TP for the flex, Grainger for the insulators/feet, Northern for the Ingersol Rand regulators. the rest at Lowes. Attached Images
Reply:First thanks for the valuable info. I used this thread to design the plumbing for my 60 gal Campbell Hausfield compressor. I put the risers in as stated here, unions everywhere, drain valves at all vertical drops, and regulator/filter/water separator with multiple outlets through out the garage. I couldn't have been happier until I fired it up and the piping leaks like a sieve. I originally used teflon tape at all the joints, and ripped that out and used pipe dope to try to seal the leaks. I'm at my wits end tying to stop the leaks. I'm down to wondering if it's because I used galvanized pipe vs copper or black pipe. Could the soft zinc coating of galvanized pipe be too soft to make a good seal? Or is it normal for it to leak a little? I'm squirting soapy water on the joints/unions and get bubbles at every joint. Last night I took down the entire first vertical leg (Flex line from compressor to the vertical 1/2" pipe), took apart every joint, put gobs of pipe dope on each male thread, put it back together and it still leaks. Should I just swap out the galvanized pipe for black iron? I really never intended to make such a production out of getting compressed air in the garage, kinda lost track of the fact I'm supposed to be rebuilding an engine!  Appreciate any help, I've got pictures if that would help.Thanks,Geoff Willis
Reply:I had the same problem, I used both teflon and generic pipe dope, only a few leaks, but more then I figured on in the initial intstalation. I was told about this stuff the union pipe fitters used, Its Called " Rectorseal #5". That was the answer, Not a leak at all.   Another interesting point  is that using a wrench , you need to make sure the ring of the union is contacting the wrench in three spots (the two flats and the back throat of the wrench). In that way you spread the load of the torque and not egg shape the union ring. As far as the Zink coating on the pipe, it is cut away when they cut the threads, this is not an issue. I used 3/4  galvonized pipe  (black pipe will rust) when I did mine for more air volume.  In plumbing your compressor, make sure you have a shut off at the tank. Most folks use a rubber or some kind of  plastic based flexible air hose for the final connect to the air tool. This is ok, as in most cases you need it. The only problem is that  when they blow its a rude awakening.  Thats ok if your there to disconnect it, but if your off playing golf, on vacation, or anywhere but home, Kiss your compressor goodbuy. It will run till it burns out. Install a shut off at the tank, and turn it off every night when your done, or disconnect all flexible air lines.Another  thing , the so called shut off switch , is a pressure switch with a manual overide. Using this as a shut off and on switch wears it out ,. changes the pre- set settings. I bought a 50 amp (Light) switch and wired it into the panel. It was pricy (50.00) but a drop compared to a 2500.00 compressor and was worth it.  If your compressor is rated 160PSI+, you need to drop the set point on the pressure switch. Mine is rated at 175, at 160 it would come on. NOTHING in my shop needs that kind of pressure, 90 Lbs is the norm, so I reset mine to go on at 100 PSI, and go off at 125 PSI .Resetting  this gives you aprox. double the life span of the compressor before rebuild. Piping the intake outside, will greatly reduce noise. I took the factory  intake off my compresssor and went to the junk yard. I got a 86 Isusu air filter off a truck. Modified it to adapt a pvc  toilet collar and  now have 2 inch to the outside air. I used a rubber fernco collar to illiminate vibration cracking in the return.I took a lot of time researching the possibilities, looking at pictures and such, now I can dry wet steel off the tap that has NO water seperator. All this info is from the service manager at Ingersol-Rand mobile service, who I have a contract with. I am going 5 years now , with the compressor running  daily. Other then the oil change every spring , I havent had to touch it. You may PM me if you need more info, Wrench.
Reply:Lets see, the compressed air stream is hottest (greatest water holding ability) when it leaves the compressor headed for the tank.  The greatest cooling of the  air stream can be acheived between the compressor and tank.  So, putting any device relying on cooling the air stream to drop water out of the stream after the tank makes sense WHY?Copper -v- black iron - be very wary, copper does not give off heat via radiation, only by contact.  Yes, I do know household baseboard rasiation units are copper tubing.  I also know they have aluminum fins to give off heat.
Reply:Thank you for the advice, the Rectorseal #5 worked like a champ. I had to take down each section, remove the tape/pipe dope and re-seal everything, but no leaks!!!  I also bought 2 huge crescent wrenches to really torque down the joints/unions. Thanks again for the help, it was driving me crazy!Geoff