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Pics of new (to me) s-32p 12

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发表于 2021-8-31 22:37:50 | 显示全部楼层 |阅读模式
Hi Guys,I finally got around to taking some pictures of the new suitcase.  It shows some light wear on the case, but it has fared better than I have over the last 21 years (september 92 model). I am thrilled with this machine for 300 dollars.  To be honest, the guy had no idea what he even had.  When I showed up to test it, he handed me a 110 extension cord for me to "test it."  I brought my Hobart (now broken down), and set the machine at 60 on the wirespeed dial and 130 amps on the hobart (.035 fc) and it welded awesome.  The only thing it was missing was the bushing and retainer for the wire role.  Rather than buy a new one, I fabricated the one in the picture.  I haven't got to really wring it out because I don't have my welder.  I did ad a quick connector to lead so I can easily switch between my stick wip and the suitcase.  Thank  you everyone for all your help in figuring out what I wanted.  I will post pics as soon as get to weld with it.farmer2Last edited by farmer2; 12-27-2013 at 06:11 PM.
Reply:Looks like it will still give you years of use. The one thing I would do is put a strain relief where the lead enters the case. Is that a gun holder on the front?TOO MANY TOOLS & NO MORE SPACE
Reply:Originally Posted by Chris T.Looks like it will still give you years of use. The one thing I would do is put a strain relief where the lead enters the case. Is that a gun holder on the front?
Reply:The previous owner must have added input lead. Mine and others I  have seen have about a 12-14 inch lead with the male cpnnector. When you make your spacerfor the wire spool you might want to try a thin spacer behind the roll. My 32 feeder doesn't have this issue but my S22p12 feeder needs about a1-16 inch shim to keep some of the wire rolls I get from rubbing on the back. Good luck with your Hobart machine, but I would guess that after using this feeder setup that you would want a powersource with CV so you can run MIG with gas. Feeder looks real clean BTW.Miller xmt304,  Miller S22 p12, Miier Maxstar SD, Miller 252 w 30A, Miller super32p12, Lincoln Ranger 9, Thermal Arc 181I with spoolgun, Hypertherm 10000 ,Smith torches. Esab 161lts miniarc.
Reply:Good score!
Reply:I remember when they first came out, they didn't have a 12 at the end then. The pop rivets holding the door to the hinge, usually didn't last a shift. But the guys I worked with could break a cannon ball! Don’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Originally Posted by M J DThe previous owner must have added input lead. Mine and others I  have seen have about a 12-14 inch lead with the male cpnnector. When you make your spacerfor the wire spool you might want to try a thin spacer behind the roll. My 32 feeder doesn't have this issue but my S22p12 feeder needs about a1-16 inch shim to keep some of the wire rolls I get from rubbing on the back. Good luck with your Hobart machine, but I would guess that after using this feeder setup that you would want a powersource with CV so you can run MIG with gas. Feeder looks real clean BTW.
Reply:Originally Posted by farmer2I doubt I will ever use gas.  All of my work is outside on heavy equipment.
Reply:Originally Posted by CEPIf you have a CV power source ESAB's Correshield 8 is pretty easy to run. First picture. If all you have is a CC power source Hobart's 21-B is childs play to run.
Reply:Originally Posted by Chris T.Looks like it will still give you years of use. The one thing I would do is put a strain relief where the lead enters the case. Is that a gun holder on the front?
Reply:What is the best source for some fc  rollers.  I'm pretty sure what's in there are for smooth wire
Reply:Originally Posted by farmer2Thats the wire i just put in, so hopefully i will get a chance to try it soon.
Reply:Originally Posted by farmer2What is the best source for some fc  rollers.  I'm pretty sure what's in there are for smooth wire
Reply:Originally Posted by M J DYou have got the old style drive wheels, with the 3 screws. I would look into going to the quick change rolls with the 3 slots (like the 252 or older 250) . I think its about $35 for the conversion. Your LWS should be able to hook you up.
Reply:Check at welding supplies from IOC. Indiana Oxygen Co. for your drive rolls. They're on feebay also. Usually quick shipping and the best price. My 32 is a 99 model and it has quick change. If that helps any. Blue case is also worth a little more in some circles. You made a screamin deal.Arcon Workhorse 300MSPowcon 400SMTPowcon SM400 x 2Powcon SM3001968 SA200 Redface1978 SA250 DieselMiller Super 32P FeederPre 1927 American 14" High Duty LatheK&T Milwaukee 2H Horizontal MillBryan
Reply:Originally Posted by farmer2What is the best source for some fc  rollers.  I'm pretty sure what's in there are for smooth wire
Reply:Originally Posted by blawlessCheck at welding supplies from IOC. Indiana Oxygen Co. for your drive rolls. They're on feebay also. Usually quick shipping and the best price. My 32 is a 99 model and it has quick change. If that helps any. Blue case is also worth a little more in some circles. You made a screamin deal.
Reply:Originally Posted by farmer2I failed on my search for a strain relief.  Are you willing to point me in the right direction?
Reply:I usually buy those drive rolls when their cheap enough. Which means they won't fit anything I have. I just like to hoard stuff in moderation.  As for the blue case they seem to be more rare(keeping in mind I'm a bit out of the loop). I've seen a couple on ebay from reputable sources and they'll go for $100 more than a black case 32. That may be just the way stuff works for me though. When I'm broke I'll see 4 or 5 for a dollar. When I'm looking for one with cash in hand I find the guy who want's to sell and retire from the profit. The blue color may be me. I'm weird like that sometimes. Originally Posted by 7A749The carriers are what you are referring to Bryan. They come in either 12 or 24 pitch. No real difference as far as performance, the 24 pitch ones (fine gear) are on later equipment. The older style 12 pitch were first seen on early model 60 series feeders & some MM machines. They generally run in the $40/ a piece range. One carrier will be large bore with a keyed slot. The top carrier is an idler & has bearings.If you're willing to spend the cash, the QC is the way to go. I've upgraded several 50 series feeders to them. It gets expensive on the 4 drive roll models tho. Also keep in mind that the two piece drive wheels will not work with QC carriers.Yeah, he got a good deal on it for sure. They generally run in the $500 & up range.
Reply:Promised I would give a picture of my first weld with the new machine.  I wasn't able to get a very consistent weld because the rollers were slipping real bad on the wire.  I need to get some flux core rollers.   However, this was my first weld with hobart fluxcore .035.  I ran this at 130 amps and steel is 3/16.  Its hard to tell by the picture, but it is about 5 inches long.  I know there are some downfalls to cc welding, but honesty this machine was smoother than my lincoln 175.  I think once I figure it out it will really be a useful tool.  One thing I don't understand is why people say it can't be used on metal under 1/4 inch.  Without change my settings I could weld 1/8 and get a decent well.  If I reduced the setting I think I could get it dialed in really well.  I'll post some more welds when I get the correct rollers.  Addtionally, my welder was a easy fix.  A rocker arm came off because it was under torqued at the factory.  There was a repair bulletin for this problem.  I really wish they would pass this on to their customers before the darn thing comes apart.  The mechanic said there was no damage to anything, I guess we will see.farmer2
Reply:Bead looks a bit cold to me, but that might be because of flash and angle. I'd probably chalk some of this up to wire slipage. Also I'm guessing that was done flat or as a horizontal fillet rather than out of position.It's not that it's "impossible" to do thinner stuff than 1/4" on a CC only machine, only that it's much harder. I've done 1/8" with one, but out of position on 1/8" you have to run like a raped ape and it's still not pretty. It's either drippy and undercut or you have the settings cranked down where it doesn't run well because you are down in short arc. It gets even tougher to do thin stuff if you jump up to .045 which is often the smallest wire run by many guys in the field.FC will help you as it will spray at lower settings than solid will. However it takes a lot more skill than I see in the average user to do thinner material. A lot of guys I see want to think in terms on typical stand alone migs, especially small migs, when they think of wire off an CC machine. It is NOT the same. If you are used to running production with the machine way up in spray, then you probably will do better. Maybe it's because I work with a lot of new guys that I tend to think in more basic terms than guys with hundreds if not thousands of hours of hood time.  I may have a tendency to oversimplify some times. However when people are asking basic questions, I tend to think that they probably lack the skill and knowledge needed for more complex answers. The average user certainly isn't going to be doing auto body panels with wire off a CC machine.  You aren't going to be able to run it down as thin as you can with a small CV "mig" running FC in short arc. 1/4" is a good safe starting number. If you plan to do much less than that on a regular basis this might not be the right machine for the job. Wire off a CC machine is typically a hot, high deposition process, not unlike say running 3/16" or larger 7018. Sure you can weld thinner than 1/4" with 3/16" 7018 but trying to do thinner stuff at say 225 amps isn't going to be for the average user..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:DSW I know you have made this statement several times over the last few years, and I never really put much thought into it. In my line of work 3/8-inch think material is considered sheet metal. Even though I worked out of the Sheet Metal union for 3-years I never did much sheet metal welding, what little galvanized duct work welding I ever did was with .030 silicon bronze. In that other thread where the guy was asking which wire feeder is best. I ask you if you were talking Mig of self shielded wire. You must not have seen my question. Anyway, yesterday I went out to the shop dug out the LN-25, found some 10-GA material, fired up one of the Lincolns to see what it was all about. The smallest flux core I have is .045 Lincoln NR-212. I noticed there was not near the forgiveness on the amount of stickout. Had to be real careful about that. I didn't run any out of position welds, just flat. On the whole with 10-GA I would weld vertical down. But I have had to work under a WPS which stated 10-GA be run vertical up, but again we used CV machines and .030 wire, not that big of a deal really. Here are the results I got yesterday. Attached ImagesDon’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWBead looks a bit cold to me, but that might be because of flash and angle. I'd probably chalk some of this up to wire slipage. Also I'm guessing that was done flat or as a horizontal fillet rather than out of position.It's not that it's "impossible" to do thinner stuff than 1/4" on a CC only machine, only that it's much harder. I've done 1/8" with one, but out of position on 1/8" you have to run like a raped ape and it's still not pretty. It's either drippy and undercut or you have the settings cranked down where it doesn't run well because you are down in short arc. It gets even tougher to do thin stuff if you jump up to .045 which is often the smallest wire run by many guys in the field.FC will help you as it will spray at lower settings than solid will. However it takes a lot more skill than I see in the average user to do thinner material. A lot of guys I see want to think in terms on typical stand alone migs, especially small migs, when they think of wire off an CC machine. It is NOT the same. If you are used to running production with the machine way up in spray, then you probably will do better. Maybe it's because I work with a lot of new guys that I tend to think in more basic terms than guys with hundreds if not thousands of hours of hood time.  I may have a tendency to oversimplify some times. However when people are asking basic questions, I tend to think that they probably lack the skill and knowledge needed for more complex answers. The average user certainly isn't going to be doing autody panels with wire off a CC machine.  You aren't going to be able to run it down as thin as you can with a small CV "mig" runing FC in short arc. 1/4" is a good safe stating number. If you plan to do much lean that on a regular basis this might ot be the right machine for the job. Wire off a CC machine is typically a hot, high deposition process, not unlike say running 3/16" or larger 7018. Sure you can weld thinner than 1/4" with 3/16" 7018 but trying to do thinner stuff at say 225 amps isn't going to be for the average user.
Reply:Check around, but I've got good deals from this outfit on drive rolls. https://weldingsupply.com/cgi-bin/br...alogs.pl?UNDEFDon’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:I've been trying to locate the picts I took a while back of some vertical welds on 1/8" in CC mode with my S32P. The picts were sort of poor in quality so I didn't post them at the time. Either I've got them buried in some folder or I didn't bother to save them because the pict quality was so poor. I'll try and dig thru my raw files and see if I dumped the originals there when I typically dump the whole card. Occasionally though if it's just a few picts, I'll just delete the bad ones and leave the good ones for later when I dump the card.I must not have seen your reply in that other thread. FC or solid, in some ways it doesn't matter. A VS feeder doesn't run well in short arc off a CC power source. It runs best in spray. It's just easier to go into spray at a lower voltage with FC wire typically.I'm assuming from your previous posts on this subject that you have quite a bit of time under your belt running wire. Probably a lot more hours than I have. Like I said above though, I'm looking at things from the perspective of the guy who is just starting out. I've seen a number of guys who can run  6010 stick on 20 ga or thinner sheet. While it's doable, I wouldn't say to the average guy asking basic questions that 20 ga is weldable with a stick machine.I also take the view that in the real world, flat joints aren't really typical except possibly in production work with specialized jigs. I'm not saying you don't weld in the flat position, only that in real life, you'd better be able to weld in all positions. I've yet to see a broken tractor etc that will conveniently roll itself over so you can weld a joint only in the flat position. It seems Murphy wants to position damage on the most inaccessible part, in a position that's almost always guaranteed to have you lieing on your back, welding upside down or in some other convoluted position doing vertical or overhead welds. Flat/horizontal fillet welds are easy. Running vertical will separate those that can, from those that can't.I'd rather overrate the lower end thickness than make suggestions on the thinner side. The vast majority of guys I see asking these questions are typically looking for a cheap way to get by without having to buy a stand alone mig. By that it seems the typically are looking for machines rated to do less than 1/4" the majority of the time, with occasional use up to 3/8". About what you'd expect from say a homeowner level 200 amp mig like a HH190/MM211 class mig. I really wouldn't rate a VS feeder on CC in that range. Even if you drop the minimum thickness down to 3/16" or 1/8", we are still talking about a machine designed to do heavier material. Lets be honest, while your beads look really nice on that 10 ga, I'd say from the picts that penetration on the back side of what looks like a but joint is probably bordering on heavy to excessive and the legs on the fillet look to be at least twice what they should be. No big surprise considering the wire size being used though.Running in CV mode is a different ball game. I haven't really noticed a major difference running my VS feeder in CV mode vs say running the standard RC type shop feeders. In CV mode you CAN run short arc, since now your VS feeder is really just running as a constant speed feeder similar to a standard shop feeder..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald ReaganOK, now see we're on the same page! Why would anybody run on CC if they had CV? Why would anybody run self shielded flux core on thin material if they had a stand alone Mig welder? In my case working heavy civil construction, I remember when CV engine drives came out. And 99.99 % of the time all we had to work with is self shielded flux core.Now I did run some acceptable welds on 10-GA but I had to pay attention, not the normal pull the trigger and take a nap!But I know exactly what you're saying about running hard wire with C-25 on CC! To get an acceptable looking weld you have to run HOT! Here is some .035 Lincoln L-56 wire I ran with one of my Red Face engine drives. Let me tell you it was screaming hot!  Attached ImagesDon’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWRunning in CV mode is a different ball game. I haven't really noticed a major difference running my VS feeder in CV mode vs say running the standard RC type shop feeders. In CV mode you CAN run short arc, since now your VS feeder is really just running as a constant speed feeder similar to a standard shop feeder.
Reply:I've read in the past where people say an LN-25 is an absolute joke for running Mig. The arc characteristics are all wrong. Welp they're more attuned to the arc than I am. Don’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Originally Posted by CEPI've read in the past where people say an LN-25 is an absolute joke for running Mig. The arc characteristics are all wrong. Welp they're more attuned to the arc than I am.
Reply:Originally Posted by M J DAlways blame the machine.
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