Steel Platform w/stairs

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So i got this pretty big job, I have to build a steel platform, about 8'x16'. with 2 sets of stairs.I've never done anything like this before, and i plan on posting pics as i go so if you guys have any advice please do give it.here's the pics of the shop drawings that i made (my first time making shop drawings, i think they came out pretty http://www.philswelding.com
Reply:the Architect made some notes (in red)  but the drawings were approved!!(I was always good at drafting in school)I go the steel in my shop a couple days ago, so i will be starting the fabrication soon.please dont hesitate to give me advice, i really could use some on this project. http://www.philswelding.com
Reply:Good luck     Drawings look great.   Hell bubba I've built several projects that were drawn on napkins over lunch.    Keep us postedMiller BobcatHarris cutting outfitMiller spectrum 625 plasmaVariety of shopmade tools
Reply:Ok so here's my progress so far:After hours and hours of math: ARGG!!Tranffering the math to the stringers:Then cutting it with my new 9" evolution circular saw: this saw is sweet!!Heres a pic of lining up the tabs:And here's a pic of my Welds made with my new ESAB Migmaster 280!!Last edited by MetalMan23; 02-24-2014 at 07:13 AM. http://www.philswelding.com
Reply:I make stairs quite often. Get some nuts to go on your framing square (if you don't already have them) they are a real convenience. They also fit on speed squares. There are also some handy clamps to make I will post some pictures when I get home from works.brad
Reply:Heres a pic of the header: with tabs and baseplate :And here's the first stringer laid out:Was racking my brain to figure out how to make the long sections parallel but I ended up using string and holding it off:And then I flipped it up to see if they both were level.... and viola! it was good!Heres my awesome new mag drill at work man I love these drills! http://www.philswelding.com
Reply:Tacking on the baseplate to the posts.... and I'm almost ready to start assembling it in my shop!Heres the first post and stringer assembled and level:Attached the header: yup I was working with the doors open! It was 50 degrees Assembling: by now I've realized that I really need a fork lift...Put a level on it and presto! It's perfect!!Heres a detail of the corners where they bolt together: http://www.philswelding.com
Reply:Heres a pic of the frame fully assembled:Heres me layin out the stair treads:And tacking all the angle iron supports on: http://www.philswelding.com
Reply:And that's how it lays today! All that work took me about 36 hrs. Today I'm workin on the railings: 1-1/2 SCH 40. So I will post up pics when I'm done with that, and today the truck is coming with the galvanized grating for the platfrom, and the steps, so I'll keep posting pics of my progress... http://www.philswelding.com
Reply:Looking good man Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:Hate doing stairs, therefore I only did a few. But yours look great.
Reply:Thanks for taking all the time to post these.
Reply:Looks good from here. And the drawings are purdy.
Reply:A real pleasure to see, thanks for taking the time.  Farmer2Hobart Champion EliteMiller S-32p 12Lincoln sp175tLincoln 225 ac tombstoneHarris oxy/aceteleneMakita grinders/chopsawHypertherm Powermax 45
Reply:Looks good. Nice drawings I do cad/cam all day but give a lot of credit to someone who can do hand drawings that good. You will need a small overhead gantry pretty soon.TOO MANY TOOLS & NO MORE SPACE
Reply:Originally Posted by Chris T.Looks good. Nice drawings I do cad/cam all day but give a lot of credit to someone who can do hand drawings that good. You will need a small overhead gantry pretty soon.
Reply:The work you are doing is good.I have no tips to offer about anything except your mag drill.  And this is just in the form of a suggestion for how to safeguard against potential damage to the drill from high speed contact with concrete or other hard surfaces.  It has to do with gravity.You should fabricate a goose neck support arm that you can clamp onto a strong surface with C-clamps for the occasions when you use the drill horizontally or upside down.  Rig a light duty chain or cable tether on the goose neck support and loop the tether through the drill carry handle so that if there is a power outage or somebody unplugs the extension cord, the drill doesn't crash to the floor when its magnet goes dead.We had a Milwaukee mag drill in our old shop that was often used to drill horizontally on truck frame rails.  I don't know how many times someone walked by and hooked the extension cord with a foot and caused the drill to lose power.  Most times it happened, the operator was able to "catch" the drill (but that's similar to juggling chain saws).  But other times it just crashed to the floor and was damaged.  One of our capable mechanics fabbed up a goose neck support that he would clamp onto the frame rail upper flange and had a light duty "dog chain" tether hanging off the end of the goose neck arm. The chain had a carabiner clip on the end. He would loop the chain through the drill handle and then take up some slack and connect the carabiner back onto the upper section of chain near the goose neck arm.  The goose neck was made from 2 pieces of 1.25 X .25 box tube welded together to form a 3' X 3' angle. That angle was welded to a 6" X 6" X .25 steel base plate and secured to a free space on the truck frame upper flange.  That goose neck catch system saved that old drill a bunch of times. That might seem like a lot of trouble to go to but I don't imagine you got that drill for free.  If you factor in the potential for a personal injury into the mix, the tether almost becomes priceless.Last edited by walkerweld; 02-24-2014 at 12:46 PM.
Reply:You did "VERIFY" the elevations prior to fabrication?Cuz dez never rite........Shims for adjustment up or your cut-off wheel to adjust down.Only tack weld the columns if you ain't sure.Easy to zip out tacks then a complete weld bead......
Reply:Nice circular saw! been trying to find one like that.....How is that circular saw for metal different from a regular one with a metal blade? Slower Rpm?
Reply:Looks good. I also use the nuts that go on the framing square and find them to be very helpful although on a job the other day a saw a guy using two pieces of angle iron with two 1/4 bolts to hold them together on the framing square. I thought it was a great idea. I built a lot of steps / plate forms and I have found it the easiest to start from the bottom when laying the stringer out. Not saying you have to do it that way it just works for me.
Reply:Here is a clamp that I use to attach the top and bottom stringer to, in this case, stair pans. I used to use pony (pipe clamps) but found that they just could not pull hard enough or hold well enough. I use them in pairs one each side this is necessary because if you pull too hard on one side with out the other being secure then the stringer could flip off on top of you.View of clamp on stairs.view of clamp.There several steps on the clamp to allow for different pan/tread lengths.I have to make three flights in the next two days so if any one is interested I could assemble a quick howto.brad
Reply:Amazing work!
Reply:I like the drawings!  Good work too.  Looking forward to your update!
Reply:Originally Posted by sky hy ironmanYou did "VERIFY" the elevations prior to fabrication?Cuz dez never rite........Shims for adjustment up or your cut-off wheel to adjust down.Only tack weld the columns if you ain't sure.Easy to zip out tacks then a complete weld bead......
Reply:Originally Posted by MetalMan23Yes I need something, this stuff is HEAVY!! I got black and blue marks all over my arms and shoulders from lifting it up.If I get another job like this I'm gonna buy a forkliftThanks for all the compliments!!Originally Posted by Brad NHere is a clamp that I use to attach the top and bottom stringer to, in this case, stair pans. I used to use pony (pipe clamps) but found that they just could not pull hard enough or hold well enough. I use them in pairs one each side this is necessary because if you pull too hard on one side with out the other being secure then the stringer could flip off on top of you.Attachment 632021View of clamp on stairs.Attachment 632031view of clamp.There several steps on the clamp to allow for different pan/tread lengths.I have to make three flights in the next two days so if any one is interested I could assemble a quick howto.brad
Reply:So here's where I left off:Starting on the pipe rails:First section done:Laying out the rails on my table, I really don't like clamping SCH 40 pipe to a flat table...Then the grating came in! This stuff is both extremely heavy and extremely expensive.  http://www.philswelding.com
Reply:And here's my nice little HF bender working just finr for the ends...It's done!!!!!!!!!! This is insane, the first job I've done like this but I really hope it's not the last, I've learned a lot through this process, mainly that I need a forklift and that I need to charge more for my work      I was really pleased when it started to come together, and I hope the install goes well also.  Right now it's at the galvanizers and I have to go pick it up, I will post pics of the platform when it's installed and all done! http://www.philswelding.com
Reply:Very nice! Clean lines and very solid work. Especially if thats your first set of stairs!As far as the "price" you charged, the first one is Always gonna be a bit of a shot in the dark. You will be much better equipped next time to get a more accurate price quote. For whatever its worth the price can fluctuate  quite a bit but on average I am around $400 a rise for commercial grade steel stair systems. Good luck with the install!
Reply:Beautiful work. That's my favorite kind of job ! We built and installed every stairway in the Doral complexes in Miami.Loved it !Make yourself a YouTube vid so when people call for estimates you can send them to your channel.Bubble gumTooth pixDuct tapeBlack glueGBMF hammerScrew gun --bad battery (see above)
Reply:Great job!  Very nice work!!
Reply:Great Job, thanks for sharing. I appreciate being able to see the shop drawing and the end result.
Reply:Nice job!!! You didn't have to have 1.5" for clearance for your hands ?  Looks tight around the continuous.
Reply:Thanks guys, yeah the handrail looks tight but it is 1-1/2It was definitely a shot in the dark, with the pricing but surprisingly I did pretty good, if I did it again I would definitely charge more. I will post pics of the install, next week Wednesday http://www.philswelding.com