Bevel edges of square tube for welding table?

admin

Hey guys, I'm preparing to build a 4' x 3' welding table out of 1 3/4" x 1/8" square tube. Should I bevel the edges of all my tube? Thanks guys!
Reply:You can. I wouldn’t tho.Don’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Why ??? Do you like rounded edges ? If so, go ahead !     If you REALLY like round use 2 1/2 '' or 3'' schedule 40 pipe .
Reply:is this what you are trying to say ?http://www.mr-dt.com/images/mitre.jpg
Reply:Originally Posted by Jimmy_popis this what you are trying to say ?http://www.mr-dt.com/images/mitre.jpg
Reply:absolutely not.
Reply:jransomYou put yourself on the spit . . .What is the table top thickness - what are the attachment [weld] details - and what are the 'tube to tube' joint details?Beveling is rare in light-tube construction,and generally reserved for discrete - TIGoperations.Opus
Reply:I think his question may have been motivated by FarmerSamm's comments in a trailer build thread....http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...81#post5844681250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
Reply:UnnecessaryJust a couple welders, big hammers, grinders, and torches.Work will free you.Men in dirty jeans built this country, while men in clean suits have destroyed it. Trump/Carson 2016-2024
Reply:Wow, you guys are awesome. I did read in some places that square tube should be beveled for some things so the the wire has somewhere to go or leave a slight gap. This is just for the frame obviously. I'm just inclined to tack it all together, make sure it's straight and just weld it up spreading the heat and hope for the best. It's not a heavy duty table and may have a max of a few hundred pounds on it from time to time. I just want it to be square! I'm using some 6" x 1/4" plate for the top with 2" gaps in between for clamping. Probably just tack them to the frame so they can pretty easily be removed if I damage one. I'm a novice welder and that's why I asked the question really. I searched for a long time to try to figure out if people bevel the ends of their square tube for table builds but found nothing. Your answers mean a lot and set my mind at ease. I'll just weld them together without beveling!
Reply:When you get more experience, you’ll know when to bevel and gap for the material you’re working on. Or the engineer will make it easy for you, joint prep will be on the blue prints.  Attached ImagesDon’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Originally Posted by jransomI did read in some places that square tube should be beveled for some things so the the wire has somewhere to go or leave a slight gap.
Reply:It doesnt matter on the frame, the table top design leaves so much to be desired that you wont use it long before it gets remade. 1/4 x 6 slats on a table will bend and flex so much that it wont hold anything rigid. You would be better off going 1/4" solid plate if weight is a concern. Much better off with 1/2", but you would also need to beef up the legs, i would use 4" as a starting point. If you are intent on using strips, start looking for something 5/8" and up.
Reply:All great info guys. DSW, you answered a lot of my questions right there!Thanks Walker, I was just trying to get rid of some excess material from another project. I figured the frame is only going to be about 28" wide as the top pieces will be 36" wide, thus leaving a 4" area around the outter perimeter of the top for clamping. I guess I also figured the top would be less prone to flex by making the frame a little more narrow and if it still flexed I was going to put in a stick of the square tube down the top center of the frame beneath the top. Maybe I'll look into using 1/2" material instead. I don't think I could actually carry a full on 1/2" plate on my own!
Reply:Tube down the center would stiffen it up quite a bit. Better to spend the money up front and build as big and heavy as you can. Your use and enjoyment of the table will be vastly higher.  BTW, I am speaking from experience. I built light tables to begin with. Now they are 1/2" and I am considering an upgrade to 3/4".
Reply:I would say with the 1/4'' I would only allow 2'' for clamping. A 4'' overhang is a lot on 1/4''. Checkout the welding table thread, here's one that maybe helpful, http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...ble&highlight=http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...picture-thread
Reply:1x3 14ga steel tubing.
Reply:Nice prep Jimmy, it sucks how long it can take just to get to the point to do some welding. Looks good. That one's begging for some tig tacs and filler.
Reply:Not positive what I'm looking at but it does look nice none-the-less! Beveled edges on the inside and a tiny gap??So I'm now considering using 1/2" by 6" hotrolled barstock cut to 3ft pieces for the top. I do want it to be flat. I may go a little more narrow than 3ft. Do you guys think tacking in two places on either side of the plates to the frame will be sufficient? I just figure the less heat the leas warpage, plus I can get them off pretty easily if need be for any reason.
Reply:Originally Posted by KennethDNice prep Jimmy, it sucks how long it can take just to get to the point to do some welding. Looks good. That one's begging for some tig tacs and filler.
Reply:Hey Jimmy_pop, what kind of place do you take your pieces to for clear coating? Is it expensive? Thanks!
Reply:Originally Posted by jransomHey Jimmy_pop, what kind of place do you take your pieces to for clear coating? Is it expensive? Thanks!
Reply:Awesome, I didn't realize there was such a thing as clear powder coating! That's going to come in handy!