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I have a 225 that has a switch that is difficult to turn . I'm having trouble getting to it. I'm hesitant to force anything apart. I have the 5/16 " screws out but with wires coming out both the front and back it isn't obvious to me how it splits open. Once I have it open what is the best lubricant to use? The shaft appears to be a white plastic. Thanks for any help. Lloyd
Reply:I used to have one of these with exactly that problem. I never fixed it but I figured out a way to make it less of a problem. If you pull out as you turn, it works like a top. I have seen other similar smaller switches that had a similar problem and once I tried to take one apart. BIG MISTAKE! I found out that it was just a bunch of ball bearings clamped between two pieces of metal (with a spring) and that the balls just sat in the slots in each position. When I took it apart...well, let's just say it didnt pull through.Refer to quote under my username.... Smithboy...if it ain't broke, you ain't tryin'.
Reply:Like smithboy says I wouldn't necessarily bust it open unless you had it all unsoldered and on a bench. Get good access to it in place and spray it out with some contact cleaner then wipe (force) a small amount of silicone gel in there. run it around untill you feel like you've got all the surfaces tacked and coated. There are silicone gels like they use to seal off electrical fittings and couplers. Works great. Silicone lube about the texture of vasoline or less. Made for static and minimal movement scenarios like this. Then there is a NAPA (balkamp) sil-glyde. More of a lube but has a nice high drop temp so it won't run out on ya when it gets hot like metal in the sun can. Or the old stand-by No-Ox which is one of the many battery pastes. All these are non-conductive, non-insulating combo lube/sealers. Your old lube/sealer is turning hard with age and dust. Needs cleaned out.
Reply:Thanks for the advice. I had never tried pulling out on the swith before turning. It works great that way-no more problem. Thanks, Burlap |
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