Best way to start a weld? (mig)

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Wasn't really sure the best way to word the title...Anyway, i'm working with a Hobart Autoarc 130, Little guy only 110v. 030 wire and C25.I use this wire http://www.amazon.com/INEFIL-ER70S-6...mig+wire+10+lbEvery once and a while when I start the arc, I don't always end up too successful. Sometimes it spatters a little and then "catches" if you will, and then works perfectly fine.Other times, it just goes nuts and spatters all over the place and I have to stop, reposition and go for it again, and then magically it works perfectly fine.This is mostly on fillet welds. Am I starting the arc wrong? I grind off all the millscale prior to welding. Usually i try to aim the wire into the corner itself, is it better to start on a solid piece of metal and move into the corner or it doesn't matter?Final comment, my most recent project I had a tight corner that can't be reached with a wire wheel/brush. So scrubbing the weld clean after one bead wasn't possible, and I was starting the next weld in the corner where there was some (oxidation?) remaining that I can't reach.  Would this effect it that greatly?I did read in my searching that the residue could be due to not enough shielding gas or improper angle, but my gas is at 25cfm dynamic pressure (in a closed garage) and in the tight corner I find i have to hold the gun a little more angled because I can't see anything otherwise.Sorry for my 100 threads I start, want to be good at this and refuse to pay for a class that cost more than upgrading to a manly machine.Last edited by BrooklynBravest; 01-16-2014 at 09:31 AM.
Reply:Brooklyn, there's a ton of good night welding videos on YouTube that could help you if your more of a visual learner. Now onto your questions, when doing a
Reply:Brooklyn, there's a ton of good welding videos on YouTube that could help you if your more of a visual learner. Now onto your questions, when doing a fillet weld I find it easier to aim your gun more upwards and let gravity lay the molten metal right in the middle of the joint. As for oxidation in hard to reach area's, it all depends on how critical the weld needs to be, there's all kinds of neat abrasives that help in tight places. Get creative and make something upGoodluck
Reply:Originally Posted by That Guy ThereBrooklyn, there's a ton of good night welding videos on YouTube that could help you if your more of a visual learner. Now onto your questions, when doing a fillet weld I find it easier to aim your gun more upwards and let gravity lay the molten metal right in the middle of the joint. As for oxidation in hard to reach area's, it all depends on how critical the weld needs to be, there's all kinds of newt abrasives that help in tight places. Get creative and make something upGoodluck
Reply:Don't try a straight pull unless on thinner metal with steep fillet groves with fast travel speed.Also the GMAW of steel has to be fairly clean to start with. Originally Posted by BrooklynBravestEvery once and a while when I start the arc, I don't always end up too successful. Sometimes it spatters a little and then "catches" if you will, and then works perfectly fine.Other times, it just goes nuts and spatters all over the place and I have to stop, reposition and go for it again, and then magically it works perfectly fine.
Reply:For hard-to-reach places, a die-grinder with a long neck is good.Everlast PA160-STH... and that's about it!
Reply:Sounds to me like you need to turn the voltage up, or the wire speed down. Or maybe your stickout length is changing without you realizing it.Don’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Take a step back.  Sometimes you strike and arc and all is good.  Other times you strike and it won't weld.  But if you reposition and try again all is fine.Check your welding cable connections and make sure that you have a solid work clamp connection to the thing you're welding.  Sounds to me like you sometimes have a poor work lead connection.  When it arcs the first time you get some improvement, which is why it works as you expect the next go.Make sure your work clamp is grabbing tightly down on to clean, bare steel.  No paint, oil, rust, mill scale.  Just a solid connection on bright, clean metal.  Replace the clamp if the spring is weak.Benson's Mobile Welding - Dayton, OH metro area - AWS Certified Welding Inspector
Reply:How is your wire stickout when you go to start the arc? Clipping the end of the wire helps the arc start smoother as well. As mentioned earlier check your ground. Grab a piece of scrap , start your arc while watching the ground . Chances are you will see it spark when you start the arc. MIG seems to be less tolerable to the ground than any other process . In my opinion those steel ground clamps are junk and are only good to keep your prints or drawings from blowing away .Miller xmt304,  Miller S22 p12, Miier Maxstar SD, Miller 252 w 30A, Miller super32p12, Lincoln Ranger 9, Thermal Arc 181I with spoolgun, Hypertherm 10000 ,Smith torches. Esab 161lts miniarc.
Reply:Originally Posted by CEPSounds to me like you need to turn the voltage up, or the wire speed down. Or maybe your stickout length is changing without you realizing it.
Reply:I actually attended the local school during my high school years but I went for carpentry. Wish I knew better.It's about $900 for a 48 hour class there. 3/4 working 1/4 classroom I believe, mig tig and stick. I really want to take it but it's tough to fit into my schedule and again it isn't cheap.
Reply:Understandable. It's not a bad idea to find out when the class runs and stop by and talk to the instructor before or after class if you get a chance. That allows you to get a feel on how they run the class vs what the schools lit says and you get a real feeling on what you will be getting for your money. We offer all 3 processes as well, but if you are really serious one is about all you can concentrate on in such a short period of time. Mig is usually the fastest to pick up, tig being the slowest. Stick falls somewhere in between, but since we teach using 3 different rods, it can take a while to learn simply because there are so many more steps to go thru. Usually the guys who finish Mig still have enough time to get started on another process enough to get a feel for it, even if they don't walk away with any real skills due to the short amount of class time left. That way if they come back, they already have a leg up, or if they want to try on their own, they at least have the basic understanding of how to get started..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWUnderstandable. It's not a bad idea to find out when the class runs and stop by and talk to the instructor before or after class if you get a chance. That allows you to get a feel on how they run the class vs what the schools lit says and you get a real feeling on what you will be getting for your money. We offer all 3 processes as well, but if you are really serious one is about all you can concentrate on in such a short period of time. Mig is usually the fastest to pick up, tig being the slowest. Stick falls somewhere in between, but since we teach using 3 different rods, it can take a while to learn simply because there are so many more steps to go thru. Usually the guys who finish Mig still have enough time to get started on another process enough to get a feel for it, even if they don't walk away with any real skills due to the short amount of class time left. That way if they come back, they already have a leg up, or if they want to try on their own, they at least have the basic understanding of how to get started.
Reply:Good to hear you are working out your problem.As far as a bigger machine goes however, you are going to have to go to 220v to get more power. Mig, stick, tig... it doesn't matter. You won't really gain much if anything over your current setup with another machine that runs on 110v power. You simply don't have enough input power on 110v to get any real gains..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWGood to hear you are working out your problem.As far as a bigger machine goes however, you are going to have to go to 220v to get more power. Mig, stick, tig... it doesn't matter. You won't really gain much if anything over your current setup with another machine that runs on 110v power. You simply don't have enough input power on 110v to get any real gains.
Reply:maybe you could try a run-off tab if it only takes a second till your machine get's up to speed?i.u.o.e. # 15queens, ny and sunny fla
Reply:Good advise above.One thing that helped me when I started with mig was to take a pause before pulling the trigger when I thought I was set to go. I'd get the torch into position and then move my head to the side so I could see how far my electrode  (wire) was from the place I wanted it. It gave me a new perspective for a second and a lot of the time, especially with inside corners, I'd be set up further away from the work than I thought I was when looking from the top of the torch. Where I had planned to start off a 1/4" stickout sometimes I'd actually be starting much farther away and my weld start would pop and spit and look ugly. Schools - I once signed up for a $200. welding course, twice a week for eight weeks, put on at night by the local high school. The welding instructor left all the time and although the school had new Miller equipment all over the place he wouldn't let any of the people in the little night course touch his good stuff. He told us that "We probably couldn't afford such equipment anyway" so we got to try welding with gas torches and old stick machines. (I drove over to Portland and bought my new Millermatic 210 the day after he said that and left it in the bed of my truck when I went back to that course the next night but I never was sure whether the jerk had seen it.)  The guy was more interested in getting his high school paperwork done than in teaching any more students and after the first two days no refunds were available.   Over half the class quit showing up before the course was half over.The point of this little story about local adult ed is take DSW's advise to try to check out a course before you plunk your money down. It's been almost ten years ago now and I still get a bad taste in my mouth over that little ripoff.MM210TA186TA95sLincoln AC/DC Tombstonegood old Smith torch setup 24v Readywelder mig w/spoolgunSB H 10 latheBridgeport mill6x12 K.O.Lee surface grinderK.O.Lee tool/cutter grinder
Reply:It sounds to me like you have wonky ground connections going on.The best way to start a MIG weld hands down is on a run-in tab. Get your arc all established and then move on to your workpiece.metalmagpie