Lincoln PT185 settings?

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I just got a Lincoln 185 TIG machine. My question is about the amperage settings. I am new to TIG so I am a rookie, but I have experience with MIG and OA welding. The machine fuctions very nicely, when the operator is not making mistakes!! I know that you should provide 1 amp for every .001 of material. I am welding 1/8 mild steel, so my setting should be DCEN with 130 amps, right? At least that what the TIG calculator tells me. If I try welding at this setting, I burn through. If I lower the settings to around 80-90 amps I get a nice looking weld with what looks to be good penetration, proper HAZ, and nice looking bead. When I work at 130amps and move faster, I won't burn through, but the weld looks flat and too hot. I have heard never trust what the machine is reading, because power from the panel varies? Another questions I have is about the pedel. After my puddle has been established, I have put the pedel all the way down and run my bead, easing off toward the end of the weld decreasing the heat to keep the bead uniform. Should I be working the pedel up and down during the weld? I have seen this before, and wonder if it is correct? I have read a lot and cant find this question answered anywhere. If anyone know a good private TIG instructor in the Monterey Bay Area please let me know, I would love to get some first hand experience from a pro. Thanks!
Reply:Okay, what I've been doing for this machine, is setting it to 150 (max with an air cooled torch), and just using the pedal to find the right amperage.  You may have to move it up and down a little bit to keep the bead consistant.  You do not have to pump it, that's what the pulser if for.  Set the pulse somewhere just above middle. Owner of Welding Wiki,The free wiki based resource for weldor's around the world.http://www.weldingwiki.comWe have cookies!
Reply:I'm up in Monterey too and have been using a TIG 185 with the same problems you have.  I set it for the recommended setting from the slide rule and burn holes.  Turn it down and I get a good bead.  I was introduced to welding when I was on a ship about 8 months ago and had to buy one myself when I came home.  I restore motorcycles so I could justify the purchase (yeah right, I just wanted one was all).  At any rate, I'm self teaching and when I have a question I usually just talk to my local welding supplyy and they can usually point me in the right direction.  Basically, I'm learning through trial and error but it's effective.  I recently set my machine up for stick and have beenexperimenting with that as well.  So far I have built a spanner wrench for a shock, and a wheel balancing stand that I can also use to check wheels for true.  Basically I think the machine is easy to set up and use, it's all the prep that seems to make or break your weld - literally.
Reply:Well heres what I do...I like to run it hot...well at the panel  This is if I have a remote so that whats your using that what ill talk about.  I run it hot and get a puddle going fast.  ONce the puddle is set I back way off the amps and go with whatever I need to maintain the puddle I want.   IF its not buerning in..puddle not big enoug...add heat.  If its too big I take heat away.  The lower you stay on the panel the more fine your amp control with your pedal is though.  So if you say move up to 250 amps.....you get 150 amps at the half mark right?  Ok then you get what like 75 amps at the 1/4 mark.  Well lets say you start at 150 amps....well at the 1/2 mark you got 75 amps, and at the 1/4 mark you got uh  38 amps.  You follow where im going.  So basically the idea of .001" for every amp IMO on 1/8" .125 should be 125 amps and until you get real comfy i would say 125 -130 is good.  The 130 I say good because it allows you to get a faster puddle estalbised....chris likes a fast puddle   Just my two centsIF it Catches...Let it Burn
Reply:Thanks for the info. The more time I spend, the more things are starting to look good. I have been testing the strength by putting my test pieces in a vice and beating them with a 5lb sledge. The welds don't break, but they do bend around the heat zone which seems to be what should happen. I just have to lay off the caffine before I weld! I also listen to music which sometimes makes my foot jump around. Good to see someone else from Monterey here, Peninsula Welding Supply in Seaside has been very helpfull. I have a pretty small argon bottle(50cf) which is good because I have to get it filled often, which allows me to get more questions answered! I have been playing around with the pulser too, with pretty good results. I have noticed if you turn the pulser to a fast setting it's got a strobe light effect that make me feel like I am going to be kicked into a seizure!!
Reply:Oh yeah Long_av8r , where do you get steel around here? I have been going to Salinas, but it would be nice to find someone a little closer that has resonable prices.
Reply:Originally Posted by gavinpierceOh yeah Long_av8r , where do you get steel around here? I have been going to Salinas, but it would be nice to find someone a little closer that has resonable prices.
Reply:I've been getting tungsten's from Ebay. Way cheaper that local store's. A box of 8 is about $10. I bought a few different sizes, so I think I'll be good for a while on those. The welding store over by Valley Fab has 'em too. The one next to Denny's.
Reply:Penninsula is right down the road from me and has been selling me tungstens for a buck a piece.  He even gave me a few to try the different types.  Like I said.  Nice guys.