GTAW - Aluminum Help Needed

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I am having a problem getting clean welds on aluminum.  I have a Lincoln Precision Tig 225, 100% argon 15 CFPH, 3/32 tungsten ( pure and 2% Lanthinated) welding 1/8" aluminum plate at 110 amps on the dial, 3/32 4043 wire, and a 6 cup.  It has a Weld Craft 17 flex head torch.  I have the balance at 75% penetration.  I have cleaned the plate with acetone and SS wire bush.  The beads look good but when the puddle solidifies, it looks like some one dumped a bunch of sand in it.  I have had good looking weld like this in the past and I am trying to figure out if it is me or if something is broken on my machine?  I have tried a lot of different combinations with the machine (different bottle, higher and lower amps, more and less balance, different wire , different tungsten....) I have tried different plate.  I used a inverter machine at the tech school and I did not have this issue.  Could this be just a characteristic of the Lincoln 225?  Am I missing something with my technique (1/8 - 1/4 tick out , tight arc, almost vertical angle on torch)? Or should I be looking for an issue with the machine?  Any advice would be appreciated.
Reply:You are likely cooking the piece with low amps and slow travel speed - some pics could help.1/8" aluminum should be 150+ amps - if the puddle isn't shiny and ready to move in 3sec or less, amps are too low (in general).Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:1. Switch to 5356 and see if the silicon in the 4043 is clumping on the surface. 2. Confirm your gas flow. Many times the gauge shows different than what actually comes out of the nozzle. 3. Donate the pure tungsten to your school. Squarewave and inverter tigs don't like and don't need pure. Sinewave tigs can take use of it.Weld like a "WELDOR", not a wel-"DERR" MillerDynasty700DX,Dynasty350DX4ea,Dynasty200DX,Li  ncolnSW200-2ea.,MillerMatic350P,MillerMatic200w/spoolgun,MKCobraMig260,Lincoln SP-170T,PlasmaCam/Hypertherm1250,HFProTig2ea,MigMax1ea.
Reply:Buy using low amps you are cooking the welds and the silicon  in the 4043 is giving you problems. As Dave said, up your amps. It seems backwards, but higher amps reduces the heat input into the plate. Alum is a great heat sink and welds different than steel. If you try and weld with the amps too low, the plate simply sucks away the heat and the whole thing heats up. When it finally gets ready to melt, the puddle is hard to control and you have issues like you are having with those little pimples from your 4043..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:As stated before. If you do not get a puddle in less that three seconds your settings are too low. I hammer the pedal and try and get a puddle right away so I can start moving swiftly. Others may disagree but that is how I do it. I even turn up more amps that I really need to get a puddle started right away then back off a little when I get established.www.tjsperformance.comDynasty 300 DXHTP 240HTP Microcut 380Hyperthem 85JD2 Hyd Bender and HF Hyd Ring Roller all in one =(Frankenbender)Bpt. Mill/DRO4' x 8' CNC Plasma TableInstagram: tjsperformanceYT: TJS Welding and Fabrication
Reply:Originally Posted by TJSAs stated before. If you do not get a puddle in less that three seconds your settings are too low. I hammer the pedal and try and get a puddle right away so I can start moving swiftly. Others may disagree but that is how I do it. I even turn up more amps that I really need to get a puddle started right away then back off a little when I get established.
Reply:Thanks for the tips.  It did help.  The 5356 wire is better but not 100%.  I also upped the amps.  I still think I may have an issue with my welder.  I was at the tech school and welded a T joint with their Syncrowave 250 and 4043 wire.  Then welded a T joint with my Precision TIG 225 and 4043.  The pics I have attached show the difference.  Is it possible my torch (Weldcraft 17 flex - 25') may not be operating correctly and causing this?  It's the only part of my Precision 225 I have not changed?  Thanks again for your input.  Let me know if you can not see the images.
Reply:My Precision Tig 225 welds 1/8" Al with no problem. I can use either 4043 or 5356. I normally set amps for that to 145-150, gas at 20 cfh, balance set to automatic (65%). Start at full pedal and back off as needed. All welders are a little different even when set at the same amps. Also, set your welder at what works for it, not what works on a different welder. As stated above, higher amps and higher travel speed equals lower heat input.
Reply:1/16" filler will help you immensely....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Originally Posted by zapster1/16" filler will help you immensely....zap!
Reply:Originally Posted by Willie BI saw you do it, so I know it works for you. Small filler for me seems to get hot on the way to the puddle, greys, and balls up. Nothing goes well after that. What do you do different?
Reply:Yaknow Willie...Do you go with the notion that you must keep the filler in this so called gas pocket?If so...That's what melts your end before hand and screws things up.Some will disagree but I don't keep it close until I dip..Then away it goes until dip...And dip.And dip......zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:a lot of it is the angle of the filler rod to the tungsten. I find if I let that angle get to narrow, my rod wants to melt and ball up. but if I can keep my filler rod just about perpendicular to the tungsten, then it seems to work better/less balling, etc. I have also used 3/32 rod on 1/8 plate, but you need to keep the puddle hot enough.Miller Multimatic 255
Reply:Originally Posted by zapsterYaknow Willie...Do you go with the notion that you must keep the filler in this so called gas pocket?If so...That's what melts your end before hand and screws things up.Some will disagree but I don't keep it close until I dip..Then away it goes until dip...And dip.And dip......zap!