Grinding stones amd a Dremel

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For the meantime on my projects, in lieu of a right angle die grinder in lieu of a 220v compressor that's all in lieu of an angle grinder, I'm using my Dremel with grinding stones to grind welds and such.  Having spent yesterday afternoon in the garage, these things really do take forever.  I bought several big variety packs of brown stones and gray stones to see which designs and types would work better.  So far it looks like the 1" brown stones last the longest and perform.Anyone else use grinding stones?  Can you feel my pain?Actually its not bad, just takes a while and is severely dusty.  What have you done to better this process with these tools?  ThanksLincoln AC225 and CartLincoln WeldPak HD and CartOne hand
Reply:I dont understand the what and why you are doing.  Why are you not using a grinding wheel and/or a sandpaper disk with either on a grinder?Lots of toys.
Reply:Originally Posted by brandon75173I dont understand the what and why you are doing.  Why are you not using a grinding wheel and/or a sandpaper disk with either on a grinder?
Reply:Try a carbide burr instead of the stones. It's much more agressive for material removal. Be careful. The burr will eat into you faster than it does metal, and the little shavings are super sharp. I've never had much luck with using the stones other than for getting a very fine finish..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWTry a carbide burr instead of the stones. It's much more agressive for material removal. Be careful. The burr will eat into you faster than it does metal, and the little shavings are super sharp. I've never had much luck with using the stones other than for getting a very fine finish.
Reply:I usually like the ones with the clyindrical body and round nose. Gives me a flat side to grind with and a round end to get into corners. I've got a couple of shapes depending on what I want to do.I usually use my leathers when I do this as the tiny sharp filings tend to get stuck in the cotton and bite you later. Face shield and safety glasses/goggles are a must. I hate to grind with the burr because of all the filings, but for some things it's just the best way to do it..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWI usually like the ones with the clyindrical body and round nose. Gives me a flat side to grind with and a round end to get into corners. I've got a couple of shapes depending on what I want to do.I usually use my leathers when I do this as the tiny sharp filings tend to get stuck in the cotton and bite you later. Face shield and safety glasses/goggles are a must. I hate to grind with the burr because of all the filings, but for some things it's just the best way to do it.
Reply:We are with U to solve this best it can be. Ok, what if there were a harness/frame/jig  for a grinder on a mini boom  and you get a one hand hold  to a remote joystick. Could be mechanically connected or ???  or  check out robotics stuff. (and there might be some fellas here who dig that gear too and can keep eyes open for solutions).  Those guys are real wizards and build all kinda robotics.We need a hand controlled CNC kinda thing (exept your brain is the CNC part)  with three dimensions of movement.  I see you with a  4" grinder permanently  mounted in a portable rig that clamps down to the bench or works in a receiver hitch on the bench etc... and you got a cable and a joystick.  safe and away from the grinding a bit.   ?? Next we rig a little boom  over the bench which has a electomagnet and some kinda locking down device on it.  Move the material and hold it down with that.  All U need is one hand to swing it around and set the clamp via a button.   Then swing the grinder in and grind it  from your joystick.... and move on.   Ms. Gadget >  U can be   I got a ?  did U ever get a cutting die  working the way U wished?  We were talking some kind of stamping thing... ?   Reason I ask, I'm thinking to make some leather guitar pickguards for fun. Could be tooled too.   Here's to ~The cowboy way~Lincoln Power MIG 215Lincoln WeldPak 3200HDLincon ProCut 25Lincoln WeldanPower 225 AC/DCIf all else fails... buy more tools
Reply:The rotary tool/die grinder idea may work but I'm still wanting the right angle instead of the straight shaft.  I think that would alleviate the comfort issue and probably a bit of efficiency.  It's the tiny footprint of contact area that I guess takes forever.Papa, I'm fine tuning the clicker press.  I need to close the gap for the jack so I don't need to extend the seat on the piston (I think adjusting the height of the bottom base is the easiest way to go here).  I'm also going to adjust the length on the top eye bolts supporting the springs as well.  Once I get that stuff set I'm going to pull off the components and prep & paint them.  I cut a few test pieces already and they came out all right.  So, that's a good sign.Lincoln AC225 and CartLincoln WeldPak HD and CartOne hand
Reply:Oh, also, while I'm here.  What's the best bit/head to use on the Dremel to get rid off mill scale to prep for primer and paint?  Or am I better off getting a electric hand sander and some good grit paper?  I think normally folks would use a flap wheel or sandblasting right?Lincoln AC225 and CartLincoln WeldPak HD and CartOne hand
Reply:I have used Dremel tools for years and have even gotten Dental (carbide) drill bits for very fine work; this has always been for small projects though. How large are yours? Any pictures available of this current attempt, which might allow for better suggestions  from us? As for carbide burs, the smaller diameters are generally easier to 'control'  and can be more aggressive too, but with the the larger ones,  one can get a smoother, flatter surface easier.  Both need a much lighter touch than stones. When working inside holes, great care is needed to keep from having the bur 'catch' and rattle around; it can quickly break off! Use a burr no more than 1/4 the diameter of the hole to lessen that possibility and use a very light touch.I've forgotten the colors of Dremel stones, but one (the green?) is harder and intended for hard steel, ceramics, and such while the other is fine for mild steel, brass, plastic, etc.Aluminum tends to load the stones, same as with regular grinding stones; can't remember if you ever work with that.
Reply:if your intent on doing this with a dremel I'd suggest trying the good quick release collet & the quick release cut off wheels made for metal... they work similar to a carbide but can be much more controllable... never liked using the stones...miller 330a bp TIGmiller dynasty 200DX TIGmillermatic 185 MIGthermal dynamics cutmaster 101 plasma cuttersnap-on YA5550 plasma cutterhypertherm powermax 30 plasma cutterbaileigh CS225 cold sawetc....
Reply:I read some info here about the grinding stones:  http://www.georgiagrindingwheel.com/...els_basics.htmThat's where I thought to grab the brown and gray stones first.  Some pink ones came in the package as well.Attached are photos of the cart and the progress.  It isn't pretty as its my second project of any substance.  The first working with angle iron so I'm learning as I go about how to put the pieces together.  I have more pics somewhere but I think they're on the other SD card that I can't find right now.  I did the square base first.  I attached the 4 legs yesterday (wish I would have made the  vertical legs flush with base frame).  I need to get the sides and top don, then the J hooks for the cables.  Then the casters and shelf.  I haven't decided of I go for easy piece of plywood or go with metal or exp metal for the shelf.Last edited by Monica; 11-22-2010 at 04:33 PM.Lincoln AC225 and CartLincoln WeldPak HD and CartOne hand
Reply:Rest of photos.I think I'll build the top and middle frames first before I attach them into the leg frame.  I figure this will help me keep the component square from top to bottom.I could used three more of the 90* clamps.  As it is now I can only weld one corner at a time, wait for it cool before I take off the clamp and move to the next corner.  I'm trying to minimize the warping from heat to cool down.  I do have the vice grip clamps, but the foot is just wide enough that it sits on the edge of the joint I need to weld.  I already tacked one of the clamp feet to the work piece After I grind the weld I run my file over the corners to final square it up as best I can.Last edited by Monica; 11-22-2010 at 04:33 PM.Lincoln AC225 and CartLincoln WeldPak HD and CartOne hand
Reply:Hey Monica,An air compressor definitely fills a tremendous void with the available air tools made today, including cost. Since you need electric, another solution may work for you. I have been using Dremel tools since '70 & they are without doubt, one of the best small hand tools available. The issue with them is the lack of torque & they will heat up quickly when trying to grind a lot of material. A couple solutions you may want to consider are a small "pencil" handgrinder that are available in both electric & air. I have both. The air is the very inexpensive HF pencil die grinder & it has tremendous torque adjustment as you add air volume. I use mine most of the time with the 1/8" shaft carbide cutters that are the same shaft as the Dremel. They really cut & can easily manipulate shapes, expand/alter holes, & get into really tight areas. Here's some pics of mine. Also, I listed the site that has the Foredom electric tooling that may interest you. They have very small, powerful "pencil" type units that have way more torque than the Dremel.As Doug(DSW) indicated, the carbide cutters really shed tiny slivers everywhere, so I strongly recommend a leather apron & good eye protection. An effective technique to eliminate a lot of the dust/particles/slivers when grinding is to place a shop vac nozzle next to your work piece. I even made a small portable unit for out in the field that helps a lot. Here's some pics & the Foredom site.DennySite: http://www.foredom.net/ Attached ImagesComplete Welding/Machine/Fab. ShopMobile UnitFinally retired*Moderator*"A man's word is his honor...without honor there is nothing.""Words are like bullets.... Once they leave your muzzle, you cannot get them back."
Reply:Try stacking 3-4 cut off wheels, I found they cut better than the stones.If you don't want to stand behind our Troops, feel free to stand in front of them.
Reply:Originally Posted by SWellsTry stacking 3-4 cut off wheels, I found they cut better than the stones.
Reply:I'm not sure the burrs would be ideal for one handed use. I have used them both on my Dremel and air op. die grinder. They cut quickly but do have a tendency to grab.Hate to load you up with one more safety device, but in addition to your eyes, ears, face and clothing you really need to protect your lungs, especially if you continue with the stones. Without a good fitting paper face mask, some of that grit that is wearing off the stones is ending up in your lungs.You might already have that taken care of, just didn't see it mentioned yet.
Reply:Great suggestions!  I appreciate the details.  yorkiepap, thanks for the site and the pics.  That'll come in handy.  I use to run a little vacuum in my shop when I sanded edges in order to keep the dust down.  Now I learned I can just dampen the edges to keep that at bay.  But that would take care of a good majority of the mess right off the bat.SWells, I'm glad you mentioned stacking the cutting the wheels.  I have wondered if that was on option seeing how they do a decent job cutting.  I did get the EZ Lock shaft for the cutting wheels to make changing them out easier.  But I've also got the shaft and a bunch of the regular discs too.  I'll try that.7A749, thanks for the pics.  I was wondering if I could use the sanding discs and small grinder, if only for efficiency to get an entire piece prepped and not take all day long.  The reason I can't use the grinder with abrasive discs is because of the way it'll grab and kick.  If the sanding discs is less affected by that then I wouldn't mind that as an option with a small cheap grinder.  And I don't blame you for not wanting to part with the Foredom worntorn, no worries on the safety.  I do have those little paper masks but I haven't worn them much in the garage.  When I'd wear them in my leather shop I still ended up with leather and dye residue up my nose.  So I'm thinking I need a better (read: more expensive) mask setup.  I do enough work that calls for a mask so I just need to sit down and shop around for a good one.  Although it doesn't clean down to the lung level, I do subscribe to the regular saline nasal rinse (salt in a cup of warm water) and a nasal bulb (like you find for babies).  Keeps my sinuses happier than not.Lincoln AC225 and CartLincoln WeldPak HD and CartOne hand
Reply:Her's some pics of a device sold by  McMaster. it is for 10 pounds or under, so maybe built a copy bigger. The first pic is the ball (J), bolts to your tool. That goes in the socket (H) and clamps and the other ball (A) sits/bolts on the end of  the multi directional  arm (2nd pic). Attached ImagesLincoln Power MIG 215Lincoln WeldPak 3200HDLincon ProCut 25Lincoln WeldanPower 225 AC/DCIf all else fails... buy more tools
Reply:Monica, there are at least two versions of the paper mask. With the cheaper ones I had the same experience as you. I'm now using some that are a little bit more expensive but fit tight to the face. They do a great job of keeping dust out of your lungs. I'll look up the brand later today.
Reply:Papa, an arm mounted grinder would work pretty good if it articulated smoothly.  The manufactured arm could act as my own while my good arm acted as the driver/support of the arm I don't have.  Seems like a good steering damper from a motorcycle would be the perfect cushion.  Still allows regular normal speed movement of the arm, but buffers the sharp immediate tank slappers...ie, catch and kick by the grinder.worntorn, I appreciate that!  When you get a chance, no hurry.  I'm suppose to be back to work (got orders piled to the ceiling) so my garage playtime is up for now Yesterday I got the legs-to-base welds smoothed up.  That is a bittersweet step.  I move one step closer to the end of the project.  But it also exposes my welding sins Last edited by Monica; 11-22-2010 at 04:33 PM.Lincoln AC225 and CartLincoln WeldPak HD and CartOne hand
Reply:Monica,I have the same Dremel, a black Sharpie, and a SpeedSquare.  Did you slip into my workshop when I wasn't looking?  Hmm, different torpedo level though.  OK, you're off the hook on the B&E charge.  Back to serious answers.  I mentioned it in the past when you asked and were discussing tools and grinders and such, but I couldn't imagine doing 'large' projects with a Dremel grinder.  Dremels have their use and niche, but 'large' is not it for me.And those little grinding wheels are, well, little.I know I mentioned in the past about using a Foredom or some other 'powerhead' with a flex-shaft and then putting your cutters/grinder/etc in the handpiece.  Gets the weight of the tool and motor out of your hand and lets you just hold the smaller and lighter handpiece.  A RotoZip has waaay more power than a Dremel, and they have a flex shaft for it as well.  Only a little bit more than $$ than a Dremel (usually around $100 or so IIRC, plus the flex shaft) and pretty easy to get.  Maybe not as nice as a Foredom, but a bit less expensive.  +1 on wearing the proper PPE.  Also +1 on rigging up some sort of vacuum nozzle right next to the small grinder/burr.  It really cuts down of the dust and swarf getting all over the place.And although the mini air die grinder is handy and all, you'd still need an air compressor with decent air delivery.  Which IIRC, you really didn't have available to you.  So although air powered tools do have their pluses (and minuses, which I know I mentioned in one of your previous theads), without enough air compressor to feed them air tools are frustrating (constantly waiting the air tank to refill and then getting a short burst of use and then wainting for the air tank to refill, repeat ad naseum) or effectively unusable.For use on 'flat' areas, maybe a small belt sander with a moderately coarse metal-use (blue Zircon or equiv) abrasive belt.  Something like a 3x21 machine might be able to be gently used one-handed, and since the belt is moving in-line with your hand it might be a bit more controllable than say an angle grinder where the machine's rotary motion puts a twist or torque as well as a 'jump' if/when it grabs.Hmm Porter-Cable has a 2-1/2 x 14 compact belt sander.http://www.deltaportercable.com/Prod...roductID=18937Note that using a primarily woodworking tool on metal will usually shorten the life of said tool.  And don't use a dust catcher when grinding/sanding steel, as sparks or red-hot steel pieces or grit can melt or burn things.  Rather quickly when there is forced air going through the tool if the air flow doesn't almost instantly cool the sparks.  The best laid schemes ... Gang oft agley ...
Reply:Originally Posted by MonicaAs for the metal shavings, that absolutely does not sound fun.  I think that using this method for grinding has impressed upon me the need for a full face shield.  I do wear eye and ear protection already but due to the rotation direction of the Dremel and how I comfortably position myself to the work, my face and neck took a pretty good sandblasting.  This kind of thing won't be great for my pores
Reply:Monica, here are some dust masks that really work:  http://www.tasco-safety.com/respirat...spirators.htmlThe 8210plus  is the one I've been using. They are a bit more money than those single ply face masks that don't fit snugly, but are still pretty cheap at less than $1 each.I'm working on a 10' long  Alaskan Yellow cedar custom table today. Most of the work is done with machinery that is connected to our 15hp dust extraction system. I don't need to wear a mask for that work.Some of the work is done with hand held routers, hand held belt sanders etc. This creates lots of dust and without one of these respirators on I am good for about 5 minutes work, then look forward to two days of wheezing, so nasty is yellow cedar dust.With one of these face masks in place before any hand work I can work as long as I want to on the yellow cedar, the dust just doesn't get thru.Last edited by worntorn; 11-08-2010 at 01:58 PM.Hey Monica,Like someone else mentioned, one of those mini belt sanders might be good. Black and Decker make one that's a whole lot cheaper than the "industrial" ones. Also, I can't remember if it's been asked before, but is it just the hand your missing? Do you have some forearm? If the thick barrel of an angle grinder is the problem for one handing, I just saw at Home Depot a Rigid 4.5" angle grinder that was quite a different design than others. The area of the body, were you'd hold it is really thin, like the grip of a drill! It looks like the motor is out the back with a shaft going through the thinner grip to the gear head. Looks awesome for one handing. Just so ya know. 200amp Air Liquide MIG, Hypertherm Plasma, Harris torches, Optrel helmet, Makita angle grinders, Pre-China Delta chop saw and belt sander, Miller leathers, shop made jigs etc, North- welders backpack.
Reply:Here it is:http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/R1005-An...r/EN/index.htm200amp Air Liquide MIG, Hypertherm Plasma, Harris torches, Optrel helmet, Makita angle grinders, Pre-China Delta chop saw and belt sander, Miller leathers, shop made jigs etc, North- welders backpack.
Reply:Hey thanks Bert.  I actually did pick up that Ridgid grinder.  I brought it home, plugged it in and gave it a whirl..."nope".  I just didn't get a good gut feeling from it.  I decided discretion is the better part of valor on that one and took it back for a refund.I do have my entire arm and hand but I've only got partial motor and strength down to the wrist.  What is innervated isn't enough to to withstand a support role on a grinder.  You know what's funny?  It's easier to ride a motorcycle than it is to do some regular tasks.worntorn thanks for the link.  I'll get some ordered up and on the way.  The price isn't bad at all for something that works.  I joke with my husband that I've got the "brown lung" (reference to Zoolander's black lung) because of my leatherwork  hahaLincoln AC225 and CartLincoln WeldPak HD and CartOne hand
Reply:Worntorn You might take a look at the 8511 masks the next time you need some more.http://www.tasco-safety.com/respirat...ust-masks.htmlI used to have a lot of problems with my glasses fogging with the other masks, but not with the 8511's because of the exhaust valve/ Well worth the investment in my opinion for dusty work ( can get much dustier than dry cutting concrete).Monica I keep coming back to the idea of some how fabing a strap so that your forearm can support the grinder. In some ways I'm sort of thinking the way some prosthetic arms are attached where it wraps around the forarm and is straped in place, or better like some arm crutches. You could then guide it with the aux handle and maybe rig a remote switch. Attached Images.No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:DSW, that was the original way I thought I could mod a grinder to use.  As I started searching for parts and getting into the weeds, my patience quit.  It's not the first time I have to build a new tool in order to use the tool to build something else.  It wears me out and frustrates me all the way back to "this is how I have to live my life, so complicated to do a simple task".  Not to mention I'm the one who has to build the tool while using one hand.It's a tormented catch 22 that I've grown to hate more and more as I do it  A foot pedal for the power, the center post handle on the grinder head and a forearm support to carry the weight of the grinder & laterally stabilize the tail is the basic design.Lincoln AC225 and CartLincoln WeldPak HD and CartOne hand
Reply:Monica  just a thought, is there anyone on here that might be near enough to help out on the fabrication of your modifications?  sounds like you could use a bit of a boost. I do realize that many would rather "do it them selves" but perhaps you could find some help???? another thought, how about rehab places, might be able to get ideas and or suggestions.-- fredLincoln 180C MIG
Reply:Monica,  since you don’t have all the money in the world and placing you limitations on top of that just makes solutions all the harder…On your question of the stone differences for dremel the grey and green stones are silicon carbide, normally used for stone, glass, ceramic, concrete etc. The red, white and pink are aluminum oxide and mostly used for steel (the red and pink rocks have high chromium oxides for cooler cutting but need to be dressed often). The silicon carbide will cut scale, stainless and coppers better but will wear quickly.A better tool? Prolly the best I could think of given the limited use of your arm is the Dynisher , selection page here;  http://www.dynabrade.com/dyn10/conte...earch=dynisherThere are also expanding drums that take sanding rings made to work with air grinders that are much easier to handle than stones or burrs. You also could maybe find someone with a small random orbital palm sander that you could try. The palm sander is very easy to handle, cuts aggressively and is cheap.Other than angle grinding or large snagging rocks there is just nothing quick at blending welds…Good luckMatt
Reply:Matt, I'm glad you mentioned an orbital palm sander.  I have had that in mind for a little while but I've never tried one before.  I've always done sandpaper by hand.  Dad did all his smaller projects that way and only sandblasted the big stuff.  Wait, let me rephrase, Dad had me do the smaller projects by hand and would come back out to check on me and the progress.  So I never actually knew the luxury of one of those things, but I've seen them on TV   Thanks for the suggestion.Lincoln AC225 and CartLincoln WeldPak HD and CartOne hand
Reply:Quit monkeying around with that stupid DremelBuy a cheap 4 1/2" angle grinder and attach an arm brace to it.  Design it in the same fashion as a "Wrist Rocket" slingshot.  The forearm is trapped in a circular band/brace, which is attached to the body of the grinder.  This will stabilize the grinder so it can be used with one hand.As far as mill scale goes................  Forget about it if you using stick or flux core.  Remove any loose rust with a wire brush, and have at it.  Too much fuss is made of removing scale.  If it conducts electricity, it can be welded  Flux on the rod, and the flux paste in the core of flux core wire is designed to float impurities to the surface of the puddle.  (This ought to start a #### storm)  For most types of mild steel welding applications.....folks should pay more attention to joint design and proper welding technique rather than polishing metal Attached Images"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:farmersamm, that was the original plan.  (edit:  the forearm support).  I briefly fluttered the slingshot design but haven't looked at it as much as the crutch/wrist support like the metal detectors).I'm not wiping mill scale just for welding, I'm doing it so I can prep for prime and paint.  I read somewhere that the mill scale will eventually peel away, taking the paint with it if paint was applied without good prep.  Is that accurate?Last edited by Monica; 11-09-2010 at 10:03 AM.Lincoln AC225 and CartLincoln WeldPak HD and CartOne hand
Reply:Originally Posted by farmersammQuit monkeying around with that stupid DremelIf it conducts electricity, it can be welded
Reply:Yeah, thanks for the words of encouragement.  Where I am is part of my cycle.  What happens is I get a wild hair idea.  So I start working on it.  Then get frustrated.  Then quit working on it.  Then I get mad that something stopped me from working on an entire thing that I could be working on.  Then I get the 'I'll show them' head of steam and do it.  Then I add a "dammit" for good measure (sorry for the curse words!).  I'd wager I'll eventually get it done.  It's only been 12 years, why should I be tired of it now???  Last edited by Monica; 11-09-2010 at 08:18 PM.Lincoln AC225 and CartLincoln WeldPak HD and CartOne hand
Reply:DSW said "Worntorn You might take a look at the 8511 masks the next time you need some more.http://www.tasco-safety.com/respirat...ust-masks.htmlI used to have a lot of problems with my glasses fogging with the other masks, but not with the 8511's because of the exhaust valve/ Well worth the investment in my opinion for dusty work ( can get much dustier than dry cutting concrete)."This morning I came into the shop  from the cool outside air and started in doing some handwork on the table.The mask went on and my glasses immediately fogged solid. I'll definitely try the 8511 masks next time, thanks for the tip.
Reply:id look into a few things if i were youwe use roloc pads at work and a drill all the time to clean up rust and gasket materiel; they are fantastic and you can use it one handed. They also come in many varieties from al to fe to steel and everything in betweenor possibly an orbital sander with heavy duty paperforney f100 220vmiller thunderbolt 225v a/ccampbell hausfield flux welder 115vcraftsman o/a rig(harris)collosal tech plasma cutter 50amp
Reply:Working in the garage a bit today with more grinding & stones, I put the nozzle of the shop vac up near the work.  That helps a nice bit.  Thanks for the suggestion on that Lincoln AC225 and CartLincoln WeldPak HD and CartOne hand
Reply:I was wondering about a  sheep shearing outfit, could it be modified to work? those guys do all the shearing one handed. take the shear off and put a grinder on it. with the steel arm it should help control the grinder kick ands they can be moved into just about any position. just an idea.Do not argue with an idiot. He will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience.
Reply:Originally Posted by idacalI was wondering about a  sheep shearing outfit, could it be modified to work? those guys do all the shearing one handed. take the shear off and put a grinder on it. with the steel arm it should help control the grinder kick ands they can be moved into just about any position. just an idea.
Reply:hi monica, iread this thread a while ago ,it must have stuck in my head.i was out in the shop tonight adding grease to my 2 new 4  1/2 ::.   7 ammp grinders , ibought from cnd tire on sale cheap cheap. upon reassably i noticed that the third postion for the handle was strait up,i trued the grinder stone against my bench grinder [dusty] and locked the trigger on to break in the brushes. after about 3 mins or so i turned it off and removed from the vise, with the handle in the vertical postion igave it atest run,i thought icould grind all day with one hand, even less work with velcro on my forearm. ding ding after an hr of searching i found this threaddidnt re read it so sry if it has been covered  just was a K,I.S.S. momment
Reply:Thanks billy.  The center vertical handle is the right idea.Lincoln AC225 and CartLincoln WeldPak HD and CartOne hand
Reply:First time I've seen this thread. Here are some more options. The Fein Multimaster clones ar very safe tools. The carbide tile blades might do okay for dressing welds. http://www.harborfreight.com/power-t...ion-tools.htmlThe real FEIN features a quick blade change. Not sure if any clones have that but in your case it may be worth the extra $$[ame]http://www.amazon.com/Fein-Multimaster-FMM-250Q-Variable/dp/B001CT9ZQS/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1290880587&sr=1-4[/ame]The Foredom clone is MUCH more powerful/versatile than a dremel and it has a nice flex shaft and handpiece. Foredom specialty handpieces will also fit it. http://www.harborfreight.com/flexibl...ver-40432.htmlLincoln SA200, HH135, Lencospot, HF80 Inverter, Rockwell 11x35 lathe, HF drill mill, Kama 554 tractor w/ FEL & BH, Belarus 250AS, lot's of Chinese tools
Reply:Originally Posted by farmersammQuit monkeying around with that stupid DremelBuy a cheap 4 1/2" angle grinder and attach an arm brace to it.  Design it in the same fashion as a "Wrist Rocket" slingshot.  The forearm is trapped in a circular band/brace, which is attached to the body of the grinder.  This will stabilize the grinder so it can be used with one hand.As far as mill scale goes................  Forget about it if you using stick or flux core.  Remove any loose rust with a wire brush, and have at it.  Too much fuss is made of removing scale.  If it conducts electricity, it can be welded  Flux on the rod, and the flux paste in the core of flux core wire is designed to float impurities to the surface of the puddle.  (This ought to start a #### storm)  For most types of mild steel welding applications.....folks should pay more attention to joint design and proper welding technique rather than polishing metal